AR195 performance during water sports

[NickB]

Can anyone tell me or agree with me that the performance of the boat pulling a tube (3 seats) is not very good? Overall I am not impressed with this boats ability to pull a wake board/wake skate either. I would expect better throttle performance for a 40k boat. I am beginning to regret the purchase of the AR195.

 

[swatski]

Where are you located? If at high altitude, it can be rough.
At sea level should be great performer for water sports. My 2012 190 would jump on plane and go 35+mph with 2,000lbs of ballast. But the pump and impeller need to be in tiptop shape.
Do you have an aftermarket impeller, like a Solas Dynafly or Concord? Those can cavitate on hole shot, and I quickly found the OEM impelelr in singles is the best with the longest blades. The pump needs to be sealed, and the L13 cone helps a lot, too.

--

 

[jEt_jAk]

Haven't pulled a 3 seater but plenty of 2 seaters and it pulls no problem.

 

[B0at1n]

Can anyone tell me or agree with me that the performance of the boat pulling a tube (3 seats) is not very good? Overall I am not impressed with this boats ability to pull a wake board/wake skate either. I would expect better throttle performance for a 40k boat. I am beginning to regret the purchase of the AR195.

I pull a 4 person tube with my AR190. The drag won’t let me go over 30. But I don’t need to go faster than that when tubing. I have learned that to swing people it takes some technique. You can’t just rip the wheel and go. On a single tube it’s a little different.

Mines stock no pump modifications or ballast, yet.

 

[symbianx]

I pull this with mostly kids, but occasionally multiple adults as well. My AR195 does a great job with it, I usually tow at about 15-18 MPH.
Tube

 

[scubasteve87]

I have an SX195 (same hull and motor) and with skiiers and wakeboarders I rip them out of the water. Usually take a few tries for me to get used to who is back there to manage the throttle and for them to get used to the pull. I've towed two person tubes as well no problem and can really hammer it if need be.

Granted I'm in salt water at sea level, so like others noted what is your elevation? What how does the boat run normally? Are you running tubes from the tower or swim deck tow point (taboo subject, but could have an impact)

 

[2kwik4u]

I was very disappointed with my '17 AR190 when we first got it. Tubing was absolutely horrid. It would bleed off speed in turns, and didn't have the pull needed to get a tube to swing around. A few things below will help you out.

• Get an L13 Cone, and seal the pump. This cured a good portion of my cavitation problems, and helped with bleeding less speed in turns. It also helps with acceleration in a straight line, and time to plane. $250 and an hours time will get both done.
• Get people to sit in the back, NOT the front when tubing. This hull seems to be overly sensitive to weight distribution, and I've found more people in the back SIGNIFICANTLY improves the turn in, and overall "curve carving" ability of the hull. I suspect this has to do with how the water enters the pump on the bottom side, but I really don't know. I can tell you without a doubt that two adults in the back is a night and day difference from two adults in the bow.
• Technique change. I came from an I/O where accelerating into the turn would whip the tube out. This boat is a little different. You need to carry slightly more speed (I tube around 23-25mph) into the turn in, let the boat turn, straighten the wheel, and add thrust. If you can get the boat straight, with the tube off to the side and accelerate, you'll provide the "pull" needed to swing the tube over the wake. I might enter the turn at 18-20mph, exit at 16-18mph almost off plane, then accelerate back to 22-24mph after being straight and exiting the curve. Once you're back to speed, then carve the other way. Good timing will get the tube back and forth over the wake no problem.

Once I made those relatively simple changes, I've been much happier with the tubing performance of the boat in general. I'm also down quite a few HP from you, so take that into consideration as you're refining your technique. Just like low speed handling; while tubing the jet is different than the I/O. My neighbor with the 23ft Tritoon has another completely different approach to pulling a tube.

As to pulling a skate/board. I'm unsure how to help here. My only gripe with skating being my AR190 is speed control. The jet is hard to maintain a consistent speed and pull. I just haven't upgraded to RideSteady yet, and deal with it. There is enough power to rip the rope from my hands on a deep water start, and once on plane the relatively small wake is actually kind of fun to play on with the skate. If you want big air from a board, then you'll need to add some ballast. Ask others here, I advocate for the wakeskate often since it's so easy to ride, and the setup only takes seconds. I love it, and it's my "go to" watersport currently.

*edit for spelling and grammer*

 

[NickB]

Elevation is about 1500 ft ASL at lake saguaro in Arizona. I am going to consider the cone upgrade for now.

 

[AJACHIM]

I was very disappointed with my '17 AR190 when we first got it. Tubing was absolutely horrid. It would bleed off speed in turns, and didn't have the pull needed to get a tube to swing around. A few things below will help you out.

• Get an L13 Cone, and seal the pump. This cured a good portion of my cavitation problems, and helped with bleeding less speed in turns. It also helps with acceleration in a straight line, and time to plane. $250 and an hours time will get both done.
• Get people to sit in the back, NOT the front when tubing. This hull seems to be overly sensitive to weight distribution, and I've found more people in the back SIGNIFICANTLY improves the turn in, and overall "curve carving" ability of the hull. I suspect this has to do with how the water enters the pump on the bottom side, but I really don't know. I can tell you without a doubt that two adults in the back is a night and day difference from two adults in the bow.
• Technique change. I came from an I/O where accelerating into the turn would whip the tube out. This boat is a little different. You need to carry slightly more speed (I tube around 23-25mph) into the turn in, let the boat turn, straighten the wheel, and add thrust. If you can get the boat straight, with the tube off to the side and accelerate, you'll provide the "pull" needed to swing the tube over the wake. I might enter the turn at 18-20mph, exit at 16-18mph almost off plane, then accelerate back to 22-24mph after being straight and exiting the curve. Once you're back to speed, then carve the other way. Good timing will get the tube back and forth over the wake no problem.

Once I made those relatively simple changes, I've been much happier with the tubing performance of the boat in general. I'm also down quite a few HP from you, so take that into consideration as you're refining your technique. Just like low speed handling; while tubing the jet is different than the I/O. My neighbor with the 23ft Tritoon has another completely different approach to pulling a tube.

As to pulling a skate/board. I'm unsure how to help here. My only gripe with skating being my AR190 is speed control. The jet is hard to maintain a consistent speed and pull. I just haven't upgraded to RideSteady yet, and deal with it. There is enough power to rip the rope from my hands on a deep water start, and once on plane the relatively small wake is actually kind of fun to play on with the skate. If you want big air from a board, then you'll need to add some ballast. Ask others here, I advocate for the wakeskate often since it's so easy to ride, and the setup only takes seconds. I love it, and it's my "go to" watersport currently.

*edit for spelling and grammer*

you say an hours time. were you able to change the cone without taking off the pump housing? interested in doing the mod

 

[2kwik4u]

Elevation is about 1500 ft ASL at lake saguaro in Arizona. I am going to consider the cone upgrade for now.

On the 195 at slight elevation and high ambient temps I would be looking at an intercooler upgrade as well. I hear that's a significant improvement for the supercharged boats.

 

[2kwik4u]

you say an hours time. were you able to change the cone without taking off the pump housing? interested in doing the mod

The nozzle has to come off, then stator housing can stay. I swapped mine in under an hour at the lake after doing some before testing. It's remarkably simple with basic hand tools.

 

[AJACHIM]

The nozzle has to come off, then stator housing can stay. I swapped mine in under an hour at the lake after doing some before testing. It's remarkably simple with basic hand tools.

Ok thanks I’ll need to take a look at it. I remember taking the housing off for the lateral thrusters and that was not fun trying to tighten the bolts back with such a small angle to turn the wrenches . If I need to take the entire housing off it would take me like probably 3 hrs lol