• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Another Solar Charger setup question

He knows batteries and electric LOL.

Drives a tesla, has an electric zero turn mower, Electric push mower, huge solar array on his house, Electric whole home air conditioning system, which I didn't even know existed!
 
Here's what my rocket scientist neighbor said:

Me: Mind if I pick your brain for a minute? A friend is putting together a solar charger on his T-top boat. He has a 36V lithium battery for his trolling motor. He thinks one 100 watt panel will provide enough to keep the battery charged in between use. Thoughts? If he provides less than 10 amp charge, can it damage the batteries?

Engineer: "I think he will fine depending on how hard and the rest time for recharge. On my 12V system, I typically use about 250W on a trip. So if he used the same, it would be 750W. His panel should output about 700W/day. That is while his is fishing too (in the sun obviously). So if it rests 2 days he'll be good."

Me: I thought I read somewhere that lithium batteries can be damaged over long term with a trickle charge?

Him:" ON trickle charging... That is correct, however, modern day BMS system prevent trickle charging. The ones I use I can set the hysterisis on how far down a cell need to discharge before letting it charge again.

BTW - using multiple batteries in a lead acid system works fine because when lead is full, it still passes current on to the next cell. When Lithium is full, it stop all current flow."

Me: He's putting together a nice Victron system.

Him:" I like Victron. What panel is he using?... (I linked it)

I used connectors from that company (Brouge) and they seem to be fine (so far). I think the dividing line is between the flexible (not having good packaging) and the rigid (better packaging, less flexibility for install). That panel looks like it rigid, so that is probably the right answer.

Me: Sounds like it has your stamp of approval, thanks

Him: Yep, looks like a good system.

Thanks for asking him. Appreciate all the input on this!
 
Just got off the phone with Epoch Batteries Tech support.

Epoch battery recommends a 10A minimum charge, this is what the BMS is looking for at a minimum but Epoch Batteries recommends a 50A charge.

If the battery is charged at less than 10A the cells will become unbalanced, the battery will charge to “100%” BUT, the BMS will only show a lower state of charge. Over time, the actual storage capacity of the battery will decrease due to the cells being imbalanced.

I asked if charging at 4A will it hurt the battery? He said; “No, but why would you do that? You bought this battery to perform a certain way, and will do okay for the first year, but the next year the actual amp hour storage could be down to 95%.” He went to say that BMS will then not read correctly. I asked okay is there any way to correct that? He said, well maybe with a key or a firmware update, or you’d have to send it back to us.
 
He knows batteries and electric LOL.

Drives a tesla, has an electric zero turn mower, Electric push mower, huge solar array on his house, Electric whole home air conditioning system, which I didn't even know existed!
I'm thinking of my HVAC air conditioning system... it's all electric too. Does his not contain a radiator outside somehow?
 
Man I hate when I miss notifications. All great information. For me, I will have either AGM or Lead Acid batteries. No way I can convince the wife to shell out the money for a LiFePo4. So I am hopeful that I won't have to worry as much about the charge amps.

Still excited to see how it all works out, as this system gives me hope I can do this for less money than I was originally thinking.
 
Man I hate when I miss notifications. All great information. For me, I will have either AGM or Lead Acid batteries. No way I can convince the wife to shell out the money for a LiFePo4. So I am hopeful that I won't have to worry as much about the charge amps.

Still excited to see how it all works out, as this system gives me hope I can do this for less money than I was originally thinking.
Lead acid batteries are supposed to have a charge rate between 10-13% of their Ah rating, for example, a 100Ah battery should have a charge rate of 10A-13A.

Looking back at your original post it seems you have a dock where you could mount the panels on? You’re going to need more than 20W per battery of solar panels. If that’s true why not mount several 100 W panels on the dock as well as the controller and just have the output wires from the controller go to the boat? The math says you’d get about 6.9A’s of charging per 100W panel, but would probably be less in reality, @lazergeek reports 5.7A which is 82% and pretty good, but he’s in Florida, your output might be a bit less. He has a very simple controller set up mounted in his boat as well as the 100W panel on top. He doesn’t have a dock to mount his equipment on. He is also running the LiTime battery which is pretty inexpensive and reporting good performance.

Checkout his post here;

Also some good info in this thread.
 
Lead acid batteries are supposed to have a charge rate between 10-13% of their Ah rating, for example, a 100Ah battery should have a charge rate of 10A-13A.

Looking back at your original post it seems you have a dock where you could mount the panels on? You’re going to need more than 20W per battery of solar panels. If that’s true why not mount several 100 W panels on the dock as well as the controller and just have the output wires from the controller go to the boat? The math says you’d get about 6.9A’s of charging per 100W panel, but would probably be less in reality, @lazergeek reports 5.7A which is 82% and pretty good, but he’s in Florida, your output might be a bit less. He has a very simple controller set up mounted in his boat as well as the 100W panel on top. He doesn’t have a dock to mount his equipment on. He is also running the LiTime battery which is pretty inexpensive and reporting good performance.

Checkout his post here;

Also some good info in this thread.
I will definitely look at those threads you linked.

Yes, we have our own dock, but Kentucky Wildlife (which oversees the lake) has control over what you can do at the lake and what you cannot. Running electrical to the dock is definitely not allowed. Thats not to say there are people that have run power, but they are also on parts of the lake that are not as popular or areas people would hang out. Or they just haven't been caught yet. Hence my reason for solar, and attaching it to the dock - something I need to look into if thats even permissible, as I am now thinking through this more. (we are definitely on a part of the lake that sees more activity and has more exposure). Our lake has a tendency to flood depending on the rainfall, and setting up a solar panel on the shore would most likely see it be submerged. Having it attached to the dock would keep it above water. But I also don't want to overload our dock with solar panels (gangway is 4' wide by 20' long & dock is 8' wide by 16' long).

The hurdles I see for myself, and it really just needs more research and understanding on my part...
- Can I mount panels to the dock - that answer could squash the whole project.
- Setting up a system that would allow easy connect/disconnect from dock to boat.
- Confirming/feeling comfortable that the "live" end coming from the panel, when disconnected is still safe and not a hazard.
- Can it get wet from kids splashing on the dock?
- Can it get wet from weather without it being a hazard?
- Can it be left disconnected during the non-boating season without issue?
- What happens if the live end falls into the water?
- Is there a switch that could be added after the panels, but before the disconnect that would allow me to kill the power feed.
- Confirming that the panels I get and the "trickle" charger setup I have will not be detrimental to the battery.
- The good thing for me is that the boat essentially has 1 week (if not more) to recharge, as we are typically only there on the weekends. So I don't need it fully charged within a 12 hour or 24 hour period. If I kill the battery due to the stereo being overused while floating, I will use my Noco charger to recondition or recharge it - if salvageable.

Again the "Lake Lite" system is very intriguing to me, and supposedly they claim it will do what I want. Will it over time kill the battery, I don't know. But using their system as inspiration to developing a system that is maybe a little better in quality or output, but also at a similar or less expensive cost is the ultimate goal. Just need to continue to do more research and refer to other people's builds.
 
Back
Top