Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[deubank1776]

you got a link for your scupper valve replacement?

Amazon.com : Attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Just to clarify this is for the scupper valve on the transom. This is what @HangOutdoors used so i ordered it and will measure before opening to make sure its the right size.

 

[deubank1776]

While you are here do you know if it fits a 252SD? @HangOutdoors

 

[TX_Mercenary]

Amazon.com : Attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Just to clarify this is for the scupper valve on the transom. This is what @HangOutdoors used so i ordered it and will measure before opening to make sure its the right size.

thanks! i added it to my shopping list

 

[deubank1776]

View attachment 171739

OMG that's brilliant! Now you've got me upset at myself that I cut my fitting flush, and would have to replace the fitting to do that!

That's a seriously great idea, nice thinking!

Drew Im back, Hear me out.
In addition to a thru hull fitting you could add this.

or this

If they do not make a 3/8 ID 1/2 OD scupper valve we can make it our selves. Don't order your new fitting yet! a washer and one of these fittings could be perfect!

 

[HangOutdoors]

While you are here do you know if it fits a 252SD? @HangOutdoors

I dunno. I don't see why it wouldn't. Why Yamaha would make different size scuppers? Although no telling what Yamaha does.

 

[RobbieO]

View attachment 171739

OMG that's brilliant! Now you've got me upset at myself that I cut my fitting flush, and would have to replace the fitting to do that!

That's a seriously great idea, nice thinking!

I cut mine flush as well. I'm removing it, and reinstalling a new one, and leave enough threads for a cap. Because I have time for all this OCD stuff. We have a newcomer to the forum who is going to make us all rethink all our mods!

 

[RobbieO]

Drew Im back, Hear me out.
In addition to a thru hull fitting you could add this.
View attachment 171781
or this
View attachment 171782
If they do not make a 3/8 ID 1/2 OD scupper valve we can make it our selves. Don't order your new fitting yet! a washer and one of these fittings could be perfect!

Since you're in modification mode, might as well do this one as well. Came out sweet.

 

[deubank1776]

Since you're in modification mode, might as well do this one as well. Came out sweet.

I already got them ordered

 

[RobbieO]

I already got them ordered

LOL....

 

[deubank1776]

LOL....

Is smokin jay on the forums?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Ordered this one for my boat. This is the shorter one, they make a 5” one as well. You can also buy replacement rubber flaps from them as well. Pretty sure Gemlux makes most of the stainless hinges and latches that are on my boat.

https://gemlux.com/collections/thru-hulls/products/779

 

[RobbieO]

Is smokin jay on the forums?

I’m not sure..I follow him on YouTube

 

[3abadi]

2022 models have the same problem. Never been fixed by Yamaha. This is unfortunate.

 

[BinbrookJake]

THE FORUM IS THE GOSPEL.

This is the way

 

[Cbullard3895]

2022 models have the same problem. Never been fixed by Yamaha. This is unfortunate.

So I'm assuming the best fix is a thru hull vs. just silicone the edges of the hole

 

[3abadi]

So I'm assuming the best fix is a thru hull vs. just silicone the edges of the hole

Personally, I will try first the silicone at the edges of the hole. Next, I might try some sort of a self draining valve or scupper from the inside.

 

[drewkaree]

So I'm assuming the best fix is a thru hull vs. just silicone the edges of the hole

It's your boat, but I would replace the fitting.

Easier to seal the flange on the outside, which may or may not be sealed the best, if at all. You will be assured to have far less of the edges exposed, acting as a sponge for water that may enter, and damage the fiberglass. You will have a built in backer for the sealant to apply to the inside wall of the anchor locker, helping you to better seal off water. Lastly, you will know that you have a proper fitting that should have been installed in the first place, instead of a patch repair that may or may not work as well as a proper fitting.

If using silicone DOESN'T work, realize that you now will likely have to remove that silicone to get the fitting in. I would bet a large sum of money that Yamaha has not siliconed that hole enough to be problematic for installing a proper fitting, otherwise multiple people wouldn't still be commenting and having this issue over at least a 6 year period, at this point.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I finally got around to replacing my anchor locker drain in my quest to chase down the water coming out at the end of the day…I’m pretty sure adding a proper anchor and 20’ of 5/16” stainless chain dropped the bow just enough to push the anchor locker drain down into the water, I know that water doesn’t flow as quickly towards the back when I wash the deck down.

Unlike @drewkaree , where my anchor locker drain fitting protrudes into the anchor locker there is not a flat surface for the flanged nut to seat on. I had to make a shim out of schedule 80 pvc for the nut to sit on so it would pull up on the thru hull evenly. This precluded me from having a clean finished product on the inside of the anchor locker.

Stock anchor drain:




When I sent these pics to my friend with 30 years marine experience he said it best, “pretty Neanderthal“

This is what it looked like with the new stainless thru hull installed. The proximity to the walls only allowed the use of the open end of a 7/8” wrench. The only way to get the box end of the wrench would have required a lot of grinding on my wrench.







I made a spacer out of schedule 80 PVC pipe. I must be living right, I only had to slightly modify the pvc after my first eyeball engineering using a belt sander laying on the bench to make the compound angle on the spacer.



When I applied the 5200 and went to tighten the nut, the added stiction of the 5200 made the spacer / shim rotate with the nut. This was one of the few instances where I could get both hands on the piece to put it back where it needed to be as I tightened the nut. After tightening the nut I had to use Q tips with a dab / dollop of 5200 on them to seal up around the shim and the anchor locker since my oh so carefully applied 5200 got smooshed all over the place.



I’ll put some more 5200 around the shim / anchor locker interface today to make sure I didn’t miss any spots. There is no way to see behind the nut. The Q tips quickly start pulling apart with 5200, so it’s a bit of a challenge to get it to flow in there correctly. But, as my friend said when I showed him these pics, “that’ll do pig, that’ll do”.




I had bought a couple of stoppers a while back for the drain I never used. They won’t work on the inside but they will work on the outside…. I may use one next trip out just to make sure no water gets into the anchor locker at all. Heck, if I can reach it from the inside the boat while on the water it may just stay there for the duration and I can just reach over the bow and remove it when needed. This way my rode will stay mostly dry.

Thanks again to @drewkaree for making this post and @Yambers for letting me know the thru hull @drewkaree was almost of stock at the time I bought the fitting.

After racking my brain looking for possible leaks and fixing a couple of other small leaks on the live well I came up with only three spots where water could be getting in, the anchor locker drain, the main drain plug, and lastly the seacock for the live well fill. That last one will require jacking the boat up while on the trailer so I can inspect it, it sits right on one of the bunks. I don’t like to complain, but I think Yamaha could have possibly done better on the location for the seacock so that it could be inspected and or serviced while on the trailer. I have a couple of spare brand new drain plugs so a new one will be installed today. I’ll run that for the next outing and see how much water comes out, if it’s nill then I know it’s not the seacock but will still inspect it.

Thanks again to all contributed to this thread.

@Can0n11

 

[drewkaree]

I’ll put some more 5200 around the shim / anchor locker interface today to make sure I didn’t miss any spots. There is no way to see behind the nut. The Q tips quickly start pulling apart with 5200, so it’s a bit of a challenge to get it to flow in there correctly.

Use popsicle sticks or PLASTIC shims (like for shimming a door/window). Those will work better when you try to smooth out the 5200. Not great, just better. Nothing really works great with 5200, you simply have varying degrees of how lucky you were with your application, considering the material.

I don't know if the popsicle sticks have some sort of coating, or if they're just sanded so fine that they don't stick as much as wood shims, but the wood shims were a disaster - stuck to those like crazy, and super difficult to smooth anything out. The plastic shims were at least 75% better for smoothing out 5200. Harder to cut for the right-sized piece than the wood shims, but any tooling is a compromise with that stuff.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for the tip Drew! It’s a long reach, even with my long arms I had to hang down in there a ways to reach it.