Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[Yambers]

hello, would you have a link to the new plug you installed? thanks

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[lakesend]

This is for your ski locker drain. Don't bother with buying just a plug, if yours is like mine, they may not have sealed around the fitting itself, and may have screwed up the fitting, requiring the rest of it to be replaced. Double-check the fitment, but it is highly probable that even if it isn't listed for your boat, it will work for your purposes. It won't hurt you to have the surrounding fitting either, and you're only going to save a buck or three by only buying a replacement plug (if such a thing can even be found - I looked, and gave up).

If you are saying that you have to have the bilge running just to stay on top of the water, then no, that's not normal. If you are saying that you have to run the bilge pump so that you feel comfortable that you aren't going to sink, then you'll have to describe the amount of water that comes out when you DO run the bilge. It's one of two things, either YOU are abnormal, or the amount of water is abnormal ? More details on your situation.

If your bilge pump is pumping water non-stop, then you have more leaks, and seemingly pretty severe leaks at that, and they should be addressed before you take your boat out again.

Coming UP through the ski locker means you have a ton of water in the bilge. Make sure it's as empty as can be, by pulling it out onto the trailer, and jacking the front of the boat up as high as possible. Chock the wheels, and add some 2x4's or bricks or something to get the bow up higher than you normally would. You likely don't have all the water out from previous trips. Start with as little water as possible, then drop it back in the water, and see if there's now some water in the bilge before you even take off from the dock. Look through the inspection hatch on your cleanout tray. If you DO have water in there, your rub rail likely needs to be sealed, because you took on water before you ever left the dock - that's from dropping the boat in the water and burying the leaking rub rail. Alternatives that aren't as likely on a boat as new as yours is a broken or loose scupper, or....worse. Start with the simple, and work your way back to the more difficult. Empty lets you track what's going on, and helps to narrow down where you should be focusing on.

Thanks - I'm definitely taking on too much water. Given the fact it is brand new I spoke with the dealer and plan to bring it in to them next week Will keep you posted on what I/they find.

 

[drewkaree]

Can anyone recommend a plug (size, length, style, or even the brand name) that would fit in the awkward location of the hole in the 242X anchor locker? the hole is placed where three different surfaces come together plus the stupid divider so it’s nearly impossible to put a T-shaped or disc with stem shaped plug in there? I don’t use the anchor locker as my box anchor doesn’t fit there so I am tempted to just silicone the entire hole and be done unless I can find a plug that fits well in that awkward location? Your suggestion, pictures, links would be most appreciated.

I just happpened to re-read this, and thought of something - you don't use the anchor locker for your anchor, so remove the divider. It's only held in by a handful of screws. Fill THOSE holes with silicone, if you're worried about water. @Sotally Tober uses his anchor locker for fenders and lines for the boat, and has sealed his fitting with caulk to turn that area into useful storage. I still have my divider that I removed, and without it in there, I found that the nut that threads onto my anchor locker fitting seats perfectly fine against the inner wall of the anchor locker. That divider is the only thing blocking your clear and easy access to the fitting, so pulling it out will be your best move. If you don't want to seal all the holes up, you can always screw it back in once you've dealt with your fitting. Not sure about yours, but I think it was a total of 4 screws holding mine in, so it's a simple task. Just a suggestion.

 

[drewkaree]

Thanks - I'm definitely taking on too much water. Given the fact it is brand new I spoke with the dealer and plan to bring it in to them next week Will keep you posted on what I/they find.

Another of my opinions on this, you're welcome to ignore it ? This is something I would do with my very own boat though, so I believe in what I'm saying.

I have yet to hear of even FAST dealer turnaround being anything less than 2 weeks. I fully understand the feeling of "It's a new emmer effing boat, they should fix every dang thing because I paid enough for this thing". We even have someone here stating that they are considering returning the boat after 4 years due to recurring issues of water intrusion after stating that he's left it with his dealer at least twice. I also fully understand the guys who say "Not my dealer, he's really good and quick on turnaround from some past issue, so I can trust him, or I'll get on the blower to chew his ass out". Multiple stories conflict, and you're likely to believe those that agree with your view of your dealer. I'll simply point this out - Yamaha didn't build something perfect for you from the get-go, so who's to say the dealer will be willing/able to track down the problem quickly or easily?

Since I like to try to prepare for the worst and work backwards from there, I would do everything in my power to at least track down where the water is coming in. This does two things, it gives the dealer a starting point, and YOU know the area to double-check when you get your boat back, so you can see just what they did for a solution, and how effective it turns out to be. The idea being, you're doing some homework for the dealer, and it very well MIGHT be back in your hands sooner. They might stop looking after they've addresses your problem, but they also might fix anything else related to it once they've tackled the problem you've already identified.

Best-case scenario, IMO, is that you find the problem, and it's so simple to fix, you just do it yourself so you never have to be without your boat. You'll never go wrong with learning more about your boat, even if you don't ever fix a thing on it.

Like I said, this is how I would address my very own boat. You may not be able to tackle this, just like I may not be able to tackle everything that will arise with my boat, but I hate the idea of being at the mercy of someone who doesn't share the same interest in solving my problems. At least with this forum, you've found folks who share your interest, and don't require payment to offer help.

Whatever the case, here's to hoping you solve the problem and you're back on the water soon!

 

[BinbrookJake]

I had another issue with the drain plug assembly inside the ski locker that I fixed as well, that required replacing the whole fitting. There was no sealant underneath the fitting whatsoever, and they boogered up the fitting when they screwed it in. I had to cut the fitting just to be able to unscrew it for removal. I'm hoping it proves to be water-tight once I can get my boat on the water.

View attachment 150183

Did you put this same part back in or were you able to order a replacement for this? I have this same part in my head compartment and water actively pours in from behind the fitting! Can't be any sealant there but I'm wondering if there's a better replacement...

 

[drewkaree]

Did you put this same part back in or were you able to order a replacement for this? I have this same part in my head compartment and water actively pours in from behind the fitting! Can't be any sealant there but I'm wondering if there's a better replacement...

There's a part number floating around somewhere, I had already ordered the whole new assembly, since I knew the fitting itself was already boogered up. The plug isn't the same, but I just reused the old plug. The plug wasn't the issue, it was the complete lack of sealant behind the fitting, and with the plug IN, the water would simply pour in around the edges of the fitting. The fitting and plug itself work perfectly fine once I installed it - used 4200 around the backside of the fitting, filled the cavity around it just a bit more, and wiped away all the excess when install was complete. The holes were in the same place, and that's another reason I went with the OEM fitting in the ski locker. If I needed to use the replacement plug, cutting off the threaded portion on the bottom of the plug to the appropriate depth would be the best solution - in my ski locker, there's maybe 2 inches before the plug can't be screwed in anymore. The new plug has screw threads on two sections of the plug, the lower threads keep it from falling out, the upper threads are the final seal.

 

[drewkaree]

This is for your ski locker drain. Don't bother with buying just a plug, if yours is like mine, they may not have sealed around the fitting itself, and may have screwed up the fitting, requiring the rest of it to be replaced. Double-check the fitment, but it is highly probable that even if it isn't listed for your boat, it will work for your purposes. It won't hurt you to have the surrounding fitting either, and you're only going to save a buck or three by only buying a replacement plug (if such a thing can even be found - I looked, and gave up).

There's the link to what I used. It was NOT indicated as fitting my boat on Amazon's listing, but the part number on every Yamaha parts site said it was the correct one - Amazon was the ONLY place that wasn't sold out or backordered for 3-6 weeks at the time I ordered it, so check around if Amazon is backordered or out, maybe they're restocked by now.

If water is pouring in around the fitting on yours, if I were you, I would just remove the fitting and measure the hole that they drilled behind that fitting and if you want something different or better, you have the hole size to shop around with

 

[drewkaree]

That might work, not sure about the 1/2” to 1” taper but I’m going to search for something similar. Thank you!

edit: this might be the one. Found it in another thread.

Cherne 269840 Kwik 'N Sure 1/2 in. Mechanical Plug - - Amazon.com

Cherne 269840 Kwik 'N Sure 1/2 in. Mechanical Plug - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Looking back through this I was reminded of your post. That plug that you linked to was the first one I tried, and I did not like the way it fit, it was a lot harder to get in then I thought was necessary. That was with the white OEM fitting.

@RobbieO had a link to a tapered plug, I ended up using something like that, but sized smaller to fit the metal fitting I used. He's got the right idea with the tapered plug, so keep looking for one sized to your preference and needs.

Here's the one I got, but I think it might be too small for the OEM fitting: Amazon.com : Rubber Plug for 3/8 Inch Pipe : Garden & Outdoor

I used RobbieO's link to track down mine, great find, and it tested out perfectly, allowed me to remove it and drain the anchor locker when we got caught in the rain this past Sunday.

 

[ZGhost]

Looking back through this I was reminded of your post. That plug that you linked to was the first one I tried, and I did not like the way it fit, it was a lot harder to get in then I thought was necessary. That was with the white OEM fitting.

@RobbieO had a link to a tapered plug, I ended up using something like that, but sized smaller to fit the metal fitting I used. He's got the right idea with the tapered plug, so keep looking for one sized to your preference and needs.

Here's the one I got, but I think it might be too small for the OEM fitting: Amazon.com : Rubber Plug for 3/8 Inch Pipe : Garden & Outdoor

I used RobbieO's link to track down mine, great find, and it tested out perfectly, allowed me to remove it and drain the anchor locker when we got caught in the rain this past Sunday.

I got a tapered rubber plug from Menards, it fits ok but not the best. Need one tad bit smaller.

 

[shnknapp]

Stumbled across this thread while researching water intrusion. First handful of times we have been out with our boat, everything was dry throughout the boat. Went out three times this weekend with 6 people total and noticed that the port side front storage carpet was soaked and starboard side had a little bit of moisture. After noticing that, I checked everywhere else in the boat (storage locker, engine bay, etc) and no moisture anywhere.

After noticing this issue the first day with people on board, I ended up putting paper towels in the front cup holders as a quick gauge of moisture (to rule out the cup holders being the culprit. At the end of the day, paper towels were dry.

I'm still trying to learn the structure of these boats but could this locker drain issue be the cause? I'm thinking about temporarily plugging the locker drain from the outside and putting some water in the locker to see if I can replicate the moisture.

 

[drewkaree]

I'm still trying to learn the structure of these boats but could this locker drain issue be the cause? I'm thinking about temporarily plugging the locker drain from the outside and putting some water in the locker to see if I can replicate the moisture.

From others, It sounds possible. If you have any lengthy slow speed trips, and bow riders, they'll be holding this drain down in the water, with your forward movement stuffing water in there.

I don't know if it would fill up to overflowing, but I recall someone saying that is how they thought their front compartments were getting soaked.

I'm interested enough to try your same experiment just to see what happens. If your test proves correct, then I'd say that drain needs to be corked off.

If you are right, then Yamaha REALLY effed up with this "feature".

 

[Bizywk]

We took @drewkaree 's suggestion and replaced the drain with a SS port. Great advice for anyone with a leak or not.

@shnknapp Slow speeds and bow riders certainly do cause the anchor locker to fill rather than to drain, but to flood and overflow the anchor locker would mean that the level of the water in the locker would have to rise significantly higher than the height of the body of water. Slow speeds and the indirect angle of the drain couldn't create the jet pressure required to overcome the natural gravity pressure of the water in the locker and flood over the top into your port or starboard storage. The other significant clue is that you said only the port side storage was a problem. With the cupholder drain ruled out, could it have been a natural spray from waves? Other remote possibilities would be a passenger spill like a water bottle that got in there, or it was already wet from weather or washing before your day out. With no water in the ski locker or head compartment which are both much lower in elevation, your entry point has to be local to the port locker and there really isn't much else it could be.

 

[mrcleanr6]

the anchor locker doesnt need to fill and spill over. since the oem plastic fitting doesnt seal on the inside, water will just pour out the end of the plastic fitting and go between the anchor locker liner and the hull. then the water runs into the bilge and some can go back and soak the carpet. mine would pour into the ski locker and drain into the bilge at a rate of about 5 gal every 7-10 min. it was a good amount.

 

[jcb1977]

@drewkaree - I bought the same thru hull fitting you used.....it came with a rubber gasket- did you use it? if so, what side did you use it on? inside of boat or on outside of hull?

 

[RobbieO]

@drewkaree - I bought the same thru hull fitting you used.....it came with a rubber gasket- did you use it? if so, what side did you use it on? inside of boat or on outside of hull?

I used the same fitting as well. I used the rubber washer on the inside because I figured it would deteriorate over time if I installed it on the hull. I used 4200 under the flange on the hull, and also on the inside on the threads.

 

[jcb1977]

I used the same fitting as well. I used the rubber washer on the inside because I figured it would deteriorate over time if I installed it on the hull. I used 4200 under the flange on the hull, and also on the inside on the threads.

thanks....sounds right to me. that's what I'm going to do to.

 

[drewkaree]

@drewkaree - I bought the same thru hull fitting you used.....it came with a rubber gasket- did you use it? if so, what side did you use it on? inside of boat or on outside of hull?

I did what @RobbieO did. My fitting happened to have the nut sit flat against the interior, so I only applied 4200 to the exterior, and the rubber washer inside is enough to seal

 

[CarolinaJet]

My thru fitting doesn't look as bad as many of yours but when sitting at anchor and people in the bow, the fitting goes under water constantly and I’m getting a little water in the ski locker in addition to a long drain from the bilge each time we go out (rear access hatch is already sealed w silicon). Wondering why this can’t be fixed with just silicon caulk around the interior and exterior edges of the thru fitting, assuming the fitting is already long enough?

 

[HangOutdoors]

@CarolinaJet You could Silicone caulk it. There are ways to fix something and then there are WAYS to fix something. Also plastic is garbage IMHO. I replace the scupper with SS and the anchor locker drain with SS. It will hold up over time and I also thinks it looks better than the plastic piece they put in there.

 

[WiskyDan]

I don't have the time to properly deal with this right now but found a simple temporary solution at the local hardware store - a tapered cork plug:



The narrow end of the plug fits into the hole from the hull side and I just tapped it in with a hammer until it was flush - easy peasy. I had a rubber version of the plug as well but the cork seemed to form to the hole better. I don't use my anchor locker for an anchor so I don't need it to drain out.