Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[drewkaree]

If I ever get out of the current set of boat mods and household projects, I was going to look into doing that with anchor locker and just seal it up. Would have to empty out the way of the scupper I would think. I wouldn't want the extra in the bilge.

Although since @drewkaree has been on a water intrusion kick for the last month and a half pretty hard, perhaps he could design a way to put a motor and plumb that so it will just empty out another pee hole in the side

If someone will do the math so I can size the pump properly, why not go with a third bilge pump for the anchor locker!

 

[Yambers]

I posted about our first trip out on the boat in another thread, and how a substantial amount of water drained out at the end of the day. I replaced the anchor locker drain tube based on what I read throughout the forum.

I am happy to report that I spent about 7 hours on the boat over the past weekend, with twice as many people as before (6), my bilge pump never came on and at the end of the day not a drop of water drained out. I have not done any other waterproofing to the boat. At 1 point I opened the anchor locker while in motion and it was partially full of water, so I know it is working. Such a cheap fix. I am surprised, as many others are, that Yamaha doesn't just make their plug and inch longer to avoid this problem.

 

[drewkaree]

I am surprised, as many others are, that Yamaha doesn't just make their plug and inch longer to avoid this problem.

Looking at mine, it doesn't even look like a BOAT thru-hull fitting, or at least not like any fitting I've stumbled across. The other thing is, these fittings are DEFINITELY being cut down to a size that the assembly worker believes is the right length BEFORE they're installed. My money is on the boats that don't leak or have a fitting that's long enough, they drilled the hole from the outside in (hence the raggedy look inside as the bit breaks through into the anchor locker), and they happened to hit a perfect spot where the fitting works perfectly for that boat, while guesstimation drilling makes others a leaking nightmare. These should be cut-to-fit, but that would take just a touch more time, so the assembler cuts a number of fittings all at once, and then just shoves them in the hole.

My biggest surprise was the absolute lack of sealant around a fitting that is simply jammed into a hole in the outside of my boat. There's no excuse or reason whatsoever why that should be the case, and it seems to be the norm for installation on these fittings.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Totally agree. There is no sealant in these and this is not a proper thru hull fitting that belongs on a boat just above the waterline.

 

[Yambers]

Looking at mine, it doesn't even look like a BOAT thru-hull fitting, or at least not like any fitting I've stumbled across. The other thing is, these fittings are DEFINITELY being cut down to a size that the assembly worker believes is the right length BEFORE they're installed. My money is on the boats that don't leak or have a fitting that's long enough, they drilled the hole from the outside in (hence the raggedy look inside as the bit breaks through into the anchor locker), and they happened to hit a perfect spot where the fitting works perfectly for that boat, while guesstimation drilling makes others a leaking nightmare. These should be cut-to-fit, but that would take just a touch more time, so the assembler cuts a number of fittings all at once, and then just shoves them in the hole.

My biggest surprise was the absolute lack of sealant around a fitting that is simply jammed into a hole in the outside of my boat. There's no excuse or reason whatsoever why that should be the case, and it seems to be the norm for installation on these fittings.

If they are going to precut the fittings, leave them longer. Worst case is a little water not draining, or the end user can trim.

 

[RobbieO]

If someone will do the math so I can size the pump properly, why not go with a third bilge pump for the anchor locker!
[/QUOT

Looking at mine, it doesn't even look like a BOAT thru-hull fitting, or at least not like any fitting I've stumbled across. The other thing is, these fittings are DEFINITELY being cut down to a size that the assembly worker believes is the right length BEFORE they're installed. My money is on the boats that don't leak or have a fitting that's long enough, they drilled the hole from the outside in (hence the raggedy look inside as the bit breaks through into the anchor locker), and they happened to hit a perfect spot where the fitting works perfectly for that boat, while guesstimation drilling makes others a leaking nightmare. These should be cut-to-fit, but that would take just a touch more time, so the assembler cuts a number of fittings all at once, and then just shoves them in the hole.

My biggest surprise was the absolute lack of sealant around a fitting that is simply jammed into a hole in the outside of my boat. There's no excuse or reason whatsoever why that should be the case, and it seems to be the norm for installation on these fittings.

Absolutely agree. Mine is exactly how you described it. It didn't take much effort to remove either. Over time, I see that fitting getting brittle and disappearing.

 

[drewkaree]

If they are going to precut the fittings, leave them longer. Worst case is a little water not draining, or the end user can trim.

I think they can't leave it long because they have to put that little divider in the anchor Locker, and it takes longer to measure it properly.

Far easier to screw it up and let the end user finally do it right if they find it to be a problem

A completely closed-off locker would be the best solution, but if they aren't going to do that, they should skip the thru Hull fitting, and just let it drain into the bilge. You would never even notice it, unless it was slipped in the water

 

[Yambers]

I think they can't leave it long because they have to put that little divider in the anchor Locker, and it takes longer to measure it properly.

Far easier to screw it up and let the end user finally do it right if they find it to be a problem

A completely closed-off locker would be the best solution, but if they aren't going to do that, they should skip the thru Hull fitting, and just let it drain into the bilge. You would never even notice it, unless it was slipped in the water

The aftermarket world is alive and kickin. Especially if anyone reads this forum. Haha

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

It's sometimes hard to visualize how things are on others' boats - I'm wondering if the main deck drain you're referencing is the scupper, or some other FSH drain that's not on the runabout's. As for the floor locker, that sounds like the FSH equivalent of the ski locker. If that has the white 3-rib vinyl seal all around it, save your efforts on trying to tighten the hatch to it, it's a POS that has very little adhesion, in addition to very little sealing area, from what I've seen.

I had another issue with the drain plug assembly inside the ski locker that I fixed as well, that required replacing the whole fitting. There was no sealant underneath the fitting whatsoever, and they boogered up the fitting when they screwed it in. I had to cut the fitting just to be able to unscrew it for removal. I'm hoping it proves to be water-tight once I can get my boat on the water.

View attachment 150183





This isn't the the exact fitting, but this is the manufacturer (Amarine), and the type of fitting - fully threaded thru-hull fitting. They no longer show the 3/8" fitting at this link, and this is where my Amazon order points to, so I know they USED to have it available.

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

Amarine-made Straight Thru-Hull Valve Fitting Fully Threaded Stainless Steel 316 Boat Thru Hull for 1-1/2 Inch Interior Diameter Hose Thru Drain Boat Hose - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Check the first post out again - I edited it to post a link to another 3/8" fitting, if that's what yours requires. I purchased a 1/2" fitting from that vendor for my cleanout tray drain, they make a quality product as well, I wouldn't anticipate any issues with the smaller fitting.

Update: @drewkaree The adjustment I made to the floor bucket Locker seems to have solved my mystery water incursion problem. Just spent four days on the Missouri River / Lake Oahe / Lake Sharp, 3-4 people on board for 8-10 hours each day with two people usually in the bow fishing and or during transits and ZERO water came out of the drain plug at the end of the day. Also encountered some decent size water, up to 5’ wind waves (40mph sustained) at times, with a lot of 3-4’ waves, the bow splash was was all the way around bow as seen from the helm. Each day had at least one deck cleaning with copious amounts of water from five gallon buckets of water.

I did buy the stainless thru hull fitting for the anchor locker and will install it anyway, bedsides it looks cool.

 

[lakesend]

@drewkaree - thank you so much for this thread! The water in my anchor locker was killing me! I made the fix using the same part from Amazon this past weekend and now the locker is completely dry. SO...now I am on to the next freakin leak - water coming UP through the ski locker. It turns out after reading other threads that I do not have the plug that is supposed to be in that drain. Does anyone have ideas for buying a replacement one? Also, is it normal to need to run the bilge pump while running to keep draining the boat??? It seems like that's the only way I can clear the water coming in.

 

[drewkaree]

@drewkaree - thank you so much for this thread! The water in my anchor locker was killing me! I made the fix using the same part from Amazon this past weekend and now the locker is completely dry. SO...now I am on to the next freakin leak - water coming UP through the ski locker. It turns out after reading other threads that I do not have the plug that is supposed to be in that drain. Does anyone have ideas for buying a replacement one? Also, is it normal to need to run the bilge pump while running to keep draining the boat??? It seems like that's the only way I can clear the water coming in.

This is for your ski locker drain. Don't bother with buying just a plug, if yours is like mine, they may not have sealed around the fitting itself, and may have screwed up the fitting, requiring the rest of it to be replaced. Double-check the fitment, but it is highly probable that even if it isn't listed for your boat, it will work for your purposes. It won't hurt you to have the surrounding fitting either, and you're only going to save a buck or three by only buying a replacement plug (if such a thing can even be found - I looked, and gave up).

If you are saying that you have to have the bilge running just to stay on top of the water, then no, that's not normal. If you are saying that you have to run the bilge pump so that you feel comfortable that you aren't going to sink, then you'll have to describe the amount of water that comes out when you DO run the bilge. It's one of two things, either YOU are abnormal, or the amount of water is abnormal More details on your situation.

If your bilge pump is pumping water non-stop, then you have more leaks, and seemingly pretty severe leaks at that, and they should be addressed before you take your boat out again.

Coming UP through the ski locker means you have a ton of water in the bilge. Make sure it's as empty as can be, by pulling it out onto the trailer, and jacking the front of the boat up as high as possible. Chock the wheels, and add some 2x4's or bricks or something to get the bow up higher than you normally would. You likely don't have all the water out from previous trips. Start with as little water as possible, then drop it back in the water, and see if there's now some water in the bilge before you even take off from the dock. Look through the inspection hatch on your cleanout tray. If you DO have water in there, your rub rail likely needs to be sealed, because you took on water before you ever left the dock - that's from dropping the boat in the water and burying the leaking rub rail. Alternatives that aren't as likely on a boat as new as yours is a broken or loose scupper, or....worse. Start with the simple, and work your way back to the more difficult. Empty lets you track what's going on, and helps to narrow down where you should be focusing on.

 

[RobbieO]

@drewkaree - thank you so much for this thread! The water in my anchor locker was killing me! I made the fix using the same part from Amazon this past weekend and now the locker is completely dry. SO...now I am on to the next freakin leak - water coming UP through the ski locker. It turns out after reading other threads that I do not have the plug that is supposed to be in that drain. Does anyone have ideas for buying a replacement one? Also, is it normal to need to run the bilge pump while running to keep draining the boat??? It seems like that's the only way I can clear the water coming in.

My plug was in the packet they gave me for the depth sensor plug. It was in the port glovebox. Looks similar to the bilge plug.

 

[CarolinaJet]

My plug was in the packet they gave me for the depth sensor plug. It was in the port glovebox. Looks similar to the bilge plug.

Same for me

 

[superglide]

I posted about our first trip out on the boat in another thread, and how a substantial amount of water drained out at the end of the day. I replaced the anchor locker drain tube based on what I read throughout the forum.

I am happy to report that I spent about 7 hours on the boat over the past weekend, with twice as many people as before (6), my bilge pump never came on and at the end of the day not a drop of water drained out. I have not done any other waterproofing to the boat. At 1 point I opened the anchor locker while in motion and it was partially full of water, so I know it is working. Such a cheap fix. I am surprised, as many others are, that Yamaha doesn't just make their plug and inch longer to avoid this problem.

hello, would you have a link to the new plug you installed? thanks

 

[ZGhost]

Can anyone recommend a plug (size, length, style, or even the brand name) that would fit in the awkward location of the hole in the 242X anchor locker? the hole is placed where three different surfaces come together plus the stupid divider so it’s nearly impossible to put a T-shaped or disc with stem shaped plug in there? I don’t use the anchor locker as my box anchor doesn’t fit there so I am tempted to just silicone the entire hole and be done unless I can find a plug that fits well in that awkward location? Your suggestion, pictures, links would be most appreciated.

 

[RobbieO]

Can anyone recommend a plug (size, length, style, or even the brand name) that would fit in the awkward location of the hole in the 242X anchor locker? the hole is placed where three different surfaces come together plus the stupid divider so it’s nearly impossible to put a T-shaped or disc with stem shaped plug in there? I don’t use the anchor locker as my box anchor doesn’t fit there so I am tempted to just silicone the entire hole and be done unless I can find a plug that fits well in that awkward location? Your suggestion, pictures, links would be most appreciate.

This is the one most guys have been using if you're talking about the anchor locker drain.

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[ZGhost]

This is the one most guys have been using if you're talking about the anchor locker drain.

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : keehui 316 Stainless Steel Combo Stainless Steel Thru-Hull Fitting w/Nut with Gasket for 3/8 I.D(3/8") : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Thanks @RobbieO, I was referring to a plug to slip into the current anchor locker hole. It’s in an awkward location and I’m looking for the right plug size, shape, and length to temp plug it until I need to drain, remove the plug, then reinstall again. I’m not looking to change the current fitting which is certainly an option. Just want to keep it simple. Thx

 

[RobbieO]

Thanks @RobbieO, I was referring to a plug to slip into the current anchor locker hole. It’s in an awk location and I’m looking for the right plug size, shape, and length to temp plug it until I need to drain, remove the plug, then reinstall again. I’m not looking to change the current fitting which is certainly an option. Just want to keep it simple. Thx

Something like this?

Amazon.com : No. 1 to 5 Universal Rubber Winter Plug for 1/2 to 1 Inch Pipe : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : No. 1 to 5 Universal Rubber Winter Plug for 1/2 to 1 Inch Pipe : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

 

[ZGhost]

Something like this?

Amazon.com : No. 1 to 5 Universal Rubber Winter Plug for 1/2 to 1 Inch Pipe : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : No. 1 to 5 Universal Rubber Winter Plug for 1/2 to 1 Inch Pipe : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

That might work, not sure about the 1/2” to 1” taper but I’m going to search for something similar. Thank you!

edit: this might be the one. Found it in another thread.

Cherne 269840 Kwik 'N Sure 1/2 in. Mechanical Plug - - Amazon.com

Cherne 269840 Kwik 'N Sure 1/2 in. Mechanical Plug - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[drewkaree]

Can anyone recommend a plug (size, length, style, or even the brand name) that would fit in the awkward location of the hole in the 242X anchor locker? the hole is placed where three different surfaces come together plus the stupid divider so it’s nearly impossible to put a T-shaped or disc with stem shaped plug in there? I don’t use the anchor locker as my box anchor doesn’t fit there so I am tempted to just silicone the entire hole and be done unless I can find a plug that fits well in that awkward location? Your suggestion, pictures, links would be most appreciate.

This is going to sound weird, but, try and find some earplugs. The cheapest, most basic ones that look like just a plain old cylinder should be the best ones for you. I think they're a little bit bigger than 3/8 of an inch if you are not taking out the divider in the anchor Locker, that will help keep the plugs in place, and you have two of them to stuff in there.

If it doesn't work, the worst you are out is maybe a buck or two, but if it does work, it will be super easy to remove, unlike the caulk, which will take a bit more effort.