2017-2019 AR 210 oil change (TR-1 engine)

[drewkaree]

UPDATED

Had to do my 10-hour oil change so I figured I'd document it for the next time, as well as for anyone else who might want to take a run at this.

*edit* Re-reading through the manual for something else, added some info at the end.

 

[Ancient canoe]

I'm around 7 hours. I'll be tackling this after a few more trips out. Most of the resources here are based on either the old MR1 engines or the 1.8s. It'll be nice to have something for the TR1 motors.

 

[drewkaree]

So, first things first. I bought the service manual, and when it arrived, the cover said it was for 2017-2018. When calling to find out WTF, I was told there must not be an updated cover yet, or they're going through the old stock since things are the same. I guess I don't really have a choice, since nobody seems to carry anything but the same option, so I'm left to believe things are the same for all these years, hence the title of the post, and my belief this will cover at least these 3 years. If none of this covers your boat, I can try to help you out if you shoot me a message, but I can only tell you what the manual states, and what I've personally experienced, which may or may not jive with what you're dealing with. This thread specifically is addressing my personal boat, a 2019 AR210, and I know the following applies to this year/model.

Here's the info from the manual for what this should require









Here are the supplies I needed, and I'll follow up with some items that I think would be an improvement to make the job easier/cleaner:
2 gallons of Yamalube 10W40
A funnel
Lineman's Pliers
A cap filter wrench and ratchet
Topsider 8qt oil extractor
2 oil filters, the item number for MY boat is shown in the pic

 

[drewkaree]

I bought the Topsider because it was metal. There were anecdotal reports of folks having issues with plastic oil extractors melting due to the oil being too hot, so I simply went with the metal one. It held 8 quarts, which should handle both engines, and wasn't plastic. That was the extent of my decision making process. There have been reports of people having no luck with this extractor, but that hasn't been my experience. I followed the directions, assembled it, and away I went. I mentioned that I would add improvements - I have either used these products, or believe they will make the process easier now that I've done this and have some experience with the process. The first item that I would change out, I cannot show you, because I haven't found a replacement yet - the clear hose on the topsider oil extractor should be replaced with something a bit more robust. My engines were hotter than I expected, and the hose didn't melt, but it collapsed enough that I want something that will hold its shape better. With the temps of the oil, I can believe the reports of melted plastic oil extractors IF the oil was left in the extractor for a while.

I also have purchased a right angle funnel. The dipstick hole is far enough back that this will make it easier to fill without hitting the engine hatch or blower hose. It CAN be done without a right angle funnel if your funnel fits and you're good at hitting the hole (that's what she said!), but it will be easier with a right angle funnel. The one I bought looks like this:





Second thing I'd recommend is an oil filter PLIERS, not a cap wrench. We've been boating at our vacation place, and I simply used what was available from my neighbor's selection of filter wrenches. You can use a strap wrench, a cap wrench, whatever. I simply prefer the pliers. They fit anything that I've come across, and they'll allow you enough leverage that they are my preferred choice of tool for oil filter removal. Mine are made by Channel Lock, but here's a pic so you can see what they look like in case you're unfamiliar with what these are - the cap wrench I used got stuck on both filters, which is why I hate them. It's easy enough to remove, but not having to remove the cap wrench in the first place is my choice.





Last thing I'd recommend to make this process easier is a secondary container to use when filling the engines with oil. I've also purchased this, and will be using it next time. Longer spout to reach easily, and it has quantities marked on the side - my plan is to put one gallon in this container, and then I can use the markings to split the quantities, which you'll read about in a bit. All in all, with the right angle funnel and this container, I should have an easier time when filling. None of these things are required, they will simply make the job easier/cleaner, IMO.





Finally, from the manual, the instructions:

 

[drewkaree]

I'm gonna give you guys pics first, then I'll run through what I did (and what I'll do differently next time). So, pop your engine hatch. You'll see two of these - for clarity, I'm gonna focus on one engine, just apply this to both engines:




Per the manual, there are going to be THREE openings you are going to have to deal with, along with the filter. In the following pic, they are as follows:

Red circle is the oil tank filler cap (dipstick). You will unscrew this and remove it. This is the first of two oil filler holes you will be using.
Green circle is another oil filler cap. This is the second of two oil filler holes you will be using.
Pink circle is the oil filter, partially hidden by the oil extraction hose. It will have to be removed eventually.
Orange circle is the oil extraction hose - the circle is around the hose clamp you will have to slide down in order to remove the hose, exposing the 3rd opening. *edit* awaiting further confirmation, it is my belief this is the only place you will need to use your oil extraction pump. If this proves to be the case, I will update my info. As of July 24, 2019 I do not have such confirmation, so I am leaving the rest of my info intact.




Here's all the openings you will be dealing with, and what they look like on the engine as you are looking top-down, all removed/exposed





According to the manual, they show a picture demonstrating oil extraction from TWO areas - DO NOT SKIP EITHER OF THEM AT THIS POINT. I did the extraction through the dipstick tube (the red circled area) prior to reading the manual. I did both engines, and let it sit to cool down overnight. My plan was to fill the engines the following morning. For some reason, I cracked the manual open and read it, and it mentioned the second extraction point. I figured I didn't have anything to lose, so I did it to one engine. Enough oil was left over that the extractor worked an additional 10 minutes sucking out MORE oil, so DON'T skip the hose extraction point. Do them both.




Lastly, the oil filter in its place, and the second extraction point (hose) - the clamp slides down as shown, the hose comes off the thing that looks like a PCV valve (the nipple circled in orange), and your extractor hose goes right down into that black hose. You can also see the cap wrench sitting on the filter. It was stuck on there at that point, which is why I do not like those things, and instead prefer the pliers. The second pic shows the oil filter base The hose on the right gives you an idea of the placement of the oil filter - straight down from there. The manual recommends punching a hole in the top of the filter with a nail to vent the filter and allow the filter to drain. I do NOT recommend this. Everything you will see that was done by me resulted in NO oil spilled. I did NOT use or require any pads or towels to clean up. Granted, the engine was allowed to cool overnight, but I didn't crack the seal on the oil filters until just prior to wanting to fill the engines back up. YOUR experience may differ, I'm simply telling you (and will show you), that the only oil that was spilled was the drops that came off the dipstick as I was checking the level as I filled it.

 

[drewkaree]

So...first thing you'll want to do is to run the boat for a little bit. The manual says 5 minutes or more. I don't recommend the "more" part, you just wanna warm up the oil, not heat it all up.

Next thing to do is remove the dipstick and set it aside. Take the hose from the oil extractor and put it down the dipstick tube until it bottoms out; shake it around a bit to make sure it just isn't hung up on something and that it's truly at the bottom. Follow the instructions for your oil extractor and start the process of removing the oil from the dipstick tube - this is the FIRST extraction point.

Take your oil filter removal tool of choice, and loosen the filter. Spin the filter 360 degrees, no more. Let it sit and drain. The manual offers a tip for filter removal - punch a hole in the top of the oil filter using a nail or the like so the filter can breathe and drain the majority of oil inside of it into the engine. I do NOT recommend that you do this. If you wish to punch a hole in the top of the filter with a nail, DO NOT do it dead center of the filter. Do it off center - the pickup tube is right in the center, I'd hate to see someone damage their engine doing something as simple as an oil change, that's why my recommendation to NOT do this - too easy to damage something with a procedure that isn't vital to the process.

Using a lineman's pliers, squeeze the two tabs of the hose clamp that is on the hose and slide it down the hose. In the post above, the orange circled area shows the clamp - mine has the 3 dabs of pink paint on it. Once you've slid the clamp down the hose, remove the hose. When you have removed all the oil from the dipstick tube, you will switch the oil extractor to this hose. Again, slide the oil extractor hose down until it bottoms out, jiggle it a bit to verify you've reached bottom, and following your extractor's instructions, remove the rest of the oil from your engine.

Now that you've removed as much oil as possible, the oil filter should have drained sufficiently. Finish unscrewing it from the threaded tube, and when it is free, quickly tilt it back and remove it from your engine. Use a rag/towel to clean the surface of the oil filter base. Take your fresh oil, dip a finger in, and lube the rubber gasket on the new oil filter, and install it where the old filter was.

Put the hose for the secondary extraction point back. Using the lineman's pliers, squeeze the tabs on the clamp to loosen it up and slide it up the hose to its original position. Remove the secondary fill plug - it's the one circled in green in the pic above.

The manual states that engine oil quantity with oil filter replacement should be 3.59 quarts. To avoid overfilling, I round down to 3 qts - I'll check it after everything's drained down and I'm certain of the level of oil in the engine. The manual states to split the amount of oil between the two fill openings - 1.5 qts for each. Using a right angle funnel, put it in the fill opening on the top of the engine (green circle) and pour in 1.5 qts. Once that's done, install the plug back, and move the right angle funnel to the dipstick tube. Pour in another 1.5 qts, and install the dipstick.

Allow the oil to flow down for a few minutes (10-15), and check the level. Top off until oil is within the range specified in the manual.

Clean up after yerself, ya filthy animal!

Here's the placement of my oil extractor, the extractor hose is in the secondary extraction point (the black hose).

 

[drewkaree]

Here's my engine compartment after oil filter removal - note the silver ring, meaning the oil filter has already been taken off, and nothing is on the floor of the engine compartment. Second pic shows the secondary fill point - the funnel I used was smaller than I'd have liked, but a taller/bigger funnel seemed like it'd hit the engine hatch or wouldn't have given enough clearance to fill. In the future, I'll use a right angle funnel, both at this point and for the dipstick tube, as well as the fill container with the long/extended neck.

The last tip I can offer is this - with fresh oil, it's sometimes hard to tell where the level is on the dipstick. Grab a fresh paper towel, pull the dipstick out, set it on the paper towel as shown. The paper towel will absorb the fresh (and difficult to see) oil and indicate the level of the oil on the dipstick. In the pic below, the second mark from the bottom is where the level is at. For my dipstick, that is at the low mark, and I need to add oil to be at or just below the 3rd mark from the bottom.

Any questions, post 'em up!

 

[Dixie Highway]

If you need any assistance on this let me know, just completed the process with mine about 4 weeks ago. Not difficult, but tedious.

 

[buckbuck]

Nice write up @drewkaree . I am sure the TR-1 guys will appreciate your taking the time to document.
(off topic) Your impressions of the TR-1 motors and how they perform?

 

[drewkaree]

Nice write up @drewkaree . I am sure the TR-1 guys will appreciate your taking the time to document.
(off topic) Your impressions of the TR-1 motors and how they perform?

I went the AR210 route because we didn't require the HO engines. Fuel consumption and how we envisioned the majority of our time using the boat led us to this, and thus far, I feel it's been a good move. I still feel as if I'll have enough power to tow around the grandkids, and power doesn't seem to be lacking at all. From what I've read, overfilling the oil will rob some power, and that seems to be the case - after the first oil change, we took it out for a spin. I don't know who put up the previous "high score" speed on our boat (45.3mph), but I got it up to 47-something after the oil change, prior to topping it off, but above the low oil level mark. I'll add that it was EASY to get it up to the mid-40's after the oil change too. I'm pretty happy with the engines themselves. The boat that surrounds them....that's a different story

 

[Ancient canoe]

Great write up.

 

[drewkaree]

In looking through the manual again for an unrelated issue, I re-read the engine oil replacement directions. The manual refers to the hose as the "oil extraction hose", indicating the possibility that you MIGHT only need to extract the oil from that hose, yet the image shows the use of an oil extractor at both points I mentioned above. Given my experience that I was able to get additional oil out from the hose AFTER extraction from the dipstick tube, it would seem to me that the hose is the lowest extraction point, and would therefore get the most oil out of the engine, without the need to do the second extraction at the dipstick tube. There doesn't seem to be clear guidance on this one, or at best, possibly conflicting info, IMO.

I'm not going to be doing another oil change in the near future simply to test this, so if anyone else attempts this, could you confirm my theory that the oil extraction hose is the only spot we need to use, and will get us the most possible used oil?

One other point I forgot to mention, I put in exactly 3 qts per engine, and needed to add more to top off. I bring this up because it seems the manual is pretty accurate, in my experience, that an oil and filter change will require 3.59 qts. This is why I'm theorizing that the hose is the lowest and only needed extraction point, as many others have stated that they get right around 3 qts, but I was able to get what seems to be the 3.59 (or whatever amount more) out when I also used the hose.

 

[swatski]

In looking through the manual again for an unrelated issue, I re-read the engine oil replacement directions. The manual refers to the hose as the "oil extraction hose", indicating the possibility that you MIGHT only need to extract the oil from that hose, yet the image shows the use of an oil extractor at both points I mentioned above. Given my experience that I was able to get additional oil out from the hose AFTER extraction from the dipstick tube, it would seem to me that the hose is the lowest extraction point, and would therefore get the most oil out of the engine, without the need to do the second extraction at the dipstick tube. There doesn't seem to be clear guidance on this one, or at best, possibly conflicting info, IMO.

I'm not going to be doing another oil change in the near future simply to test this, so if anyone else attempts this, could you confirm my theory that the oil extraction hose is the only spot we need to use, and will get us the most possible used oil?

One other point I forgot to mention, I put in exactly 3 qts per engine, and needed to add more to top off. I bring this up because it seems the manual is pretty accurate, in my experience, that an oil and filter change will require 3.59 qts. This is why I'm theorizing that the hose is the lowest and only needed extraction point, as many others have stated that they get right around 3 qts, but I was able to get what seems to be the 3.59 (or whatever amount more) out when I also used the hose.

I like the fact you let the whatever leftover engine oil collect overnight. I may start doing it, no necessarily o/n but just letting it collect for a while after removing the bulk of it.

I wish the 1.8s had that special extraction hose!

—

 

[drewkaree]

I'd love to claim credit for it as a tip, but it was completely related to dinner plans and the mosquitoes coming out afterwards, putting off doing any further work! What was surprising to me was that after an overnight cooling off, the oil extractor was able to work quite well.

 

[4x15mph]

@drewkaree Great write up! I also have the TR1's and worked on my first oil change. @Dixie Highway - you may also have some feedback here.

I extracted out of where the dipstick is and then extracted from the oil extraction hose. I only got out 2 liters (~2 quarts)..... I even extracted from the 2nd oil filler area as well as down in the oil filter. I warmed up the engine on the hose for about 5 minutes.

Did you warm up the engine while on a hose or did you warm it up for 5 minutes without any cooling?? That may make a big difference. Otherwise, I don't know what else it could be and I do think I had the right amount of oil in the engines to start with. I will check more carefully on the next engine but I am going to see what advice you have before I do the next engine.

@drewkaree - on another side note, what don't you like about the rest of the boat around the engines? I love the AR210 unless you are talking about the usual Yamaha "finish" issues.

 

[drewkaree]

Did you warm up the engine while on a hose or did you warm it up for 5 minutes without any cooling?? That may make a big difference. Otherwise, I don't know what else it could be and I do think I had the right amount of oil in the engines to start with. I will check more carefully on the next engine but I am going to see what advice you have before I do the next engine.

I took the boat out for a short drive, no hose. I think I actually had the engine too warm, if anything.

It might be entirely possible that your engine was underfilled, not sure if you know the history of the previous oil change - perhaps it wasn't level when it was being filled, leading to the low fill. If you had 2 liters, that looks to be a liter short. I'd guess there's still gonna be some left in the engine, and it's also possible that your extractor tube didn't hit the oil in the right direction or got hung up on something, not letting you get more oil out of your engine. If you're on the hose, that means you're on the trailer, and IIRC from other folks, the engine is level on the water, but slightly pitched on the trailer - not sure in what direction, but it might be causing suboptimal positioning of your extractor hose.

Mine was the opposite. Not sure who did it, but either the factory or the dealership OVERfilled my engines prior to my taking possession of the boat. That oil extractor is an 8-quart model, and for comfort's sake, I felt the need to empty it somewhat after the first engine, I'd say I had right at, or just over, 4 quarts per engine. I've checked mine while it's in the water, and when it's on the trailer. IIRC, the levels seemed close, but I don't remember thinking it was a huge difference.

IMO, get a torpedo level and put it across the spark plugs to see if the engine is level. If it's not level, make it so, and then make sure the level is good on the dipstick, and call it good. I dunno if the recommendation to put in what you take out come from that seeming to be easier to avoid overfilling, but my personal experience of poor performance when it was overfilled, I'll err on the side of underfilling it somewhat.

@drewkaree - on another side note, what don't you like about the rest of the boat around the engines? I love the AR210 unless you are talking about the usual Yamaha "finish" issues.

The "rest of the boat surrounding the engines" is a reference to what you said, the "finish" issues. I've gotta seal my anchor locker drain, the anchor locker latch sucks ass, I can see a lack of sealant around the top part of the scupper drain, the cleanout hatch leaks like a sieve when filled with water after dropping down to no-wake speeds, stripped bolts around both helm doors, 6-inch twist ties and equally-long cut ends of zip ties coming out of the drain plugs...this forum is invaluable to me for help in addressing these things quickly without losing weeks of my short boating season in Wisconsin (and in return, getting to know my boat better in the process). This post is my way of paying back the efforts of those who came before me. Glad to have been a help to you with your oil change!

 

[Dixie Highway]

I was able to pull 3 qts from each engine, leveled on the trailer. I will say there was a “lip” of some kind in the bottom of the oil fill port. I had to jiggle the tube around a bit, then felt it slip down the last 1/2” or so. That allowed me to get the last nearly 1 qt out. Same for both engines.

 

[4x15mph]

I was able to pull 3 qts from each engine, leveled on the trailer. I will say there was a “lip” of some kind in the bottom of the oil fill port. I had to jiggle the tube around a bit, then felt it slip down the last 1/2” or so. That allowed me to get the last nearly 1 qt out. Same for both engines.

Dixiehighway, did you find a lip in he oil fill port or in the oil extraction tube? I extracted from both and could not find a lip. I’ll search for that when I do engine #2. Did you warm up the engines on the hose or without the hose?

 

[Dixie Highway]

Warmed up on the hose about 5 mins. I’m not sure I’d bother warming up the engines next time as long as the weather is over 80. The lip I found was in the fill port. Took a little finagling to get it to pop down there. I’d suggest rounding off the end of the tube if possible. Bevel the edge

 

[4x15mph]

Great success with the 2nd engine, oil change and just adding here to help append to @drewkaree excellent instructions.

• I ran the boat for 5 minutes on the hose so it was warm
• I used a nail to poke 2 holes in the oil filter nearer to the edge and away from center.
• Loosened oil filter 360 degrees/1 turn per the service manual. I used an adjustable oil filter remover that fits over the top of the filter
• I extracted from the oil extraction hose (pink in picture at top) first.... 2 quarts came out
• I then extracted from the right most oil fill hole (red).... 1 quart extracted
• I then extracted from the middle hole .... not much but still worth doing
• Removed the oil filter - Zero oil anywhere....
• Lubed the ring on the new oil filter and put the new filter back on, Torque to spec 12.5 ft/lb)
• Put the oil extraction hose back on with the clip/fastener
• Filled 1/2 the oil into the middle fill hole
• Filled 1/2 the oil into the oil fill hole on far right

I would fill the engine back up with exactly what you took out during extraction or a little less. Never more
When you get on the water, run the motors and check the level (should be 1/2 way on stick between the 2 marks)
Add as needed
Recheck