Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[jcb1977]

DON'T PUT A DAMN HOLE IN THE BOAT TO ALLOW WATER ENTRY!

I think they feel the need to keep that drain as the top of the anchor locker is not sealed and would allow water in if you stuff the bow, or from big waves. I don't' understand why they can't seem to properly execute a thru-hull drain fitting though.

 

[drewkaree]

I think they feel the need to keep that drain as the top of the anchor locker is not sealed and would allow water in if you stuff the bow, or from big waves. I don't' understand why they can't seem to properly execute a thru-hull drain fitting though.

Seal the top, like the FSH anchor locker hatch. Problem solved.

If they can't (or won't), then it should be a priority to not half-ass the drain, as you mentioned, yet @Yamaha allows it go on, with band-aid fixes that they learn about, from this forum.

I get what you're saying, but we shouldn't be the R&D department of a multimillion dollar company. They designed it - make it work. They clearly didn't test this, and hoped their theory was sound. No more spoiler alerts, the theory is shite in practice, and has been a years-long problem that should have been resolved by now.

 

[kgower]

OEM cheesey clamshell

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Proper replacement clamshell style
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I prefer this style….
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Which enables you to use a plug
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Because of where the drain is located on the inside I can’t use a plug like that on the inside. But keeping this drain fitting plugged with this stopper keeps water from flowing in and out of the anchor. The drain on my boat is very close to the water.

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But what I observed even on the bow rider version of the 2020 21’ hull that @drewkaree has which has the drain higher up, when he accelerated to get up on plane I saw a full stream of water come out of the drain. To me it makes sense to keep this anchor locker drain plugged and pull it if needed to drain either after using the anchor or after washing or rain. This is even more important if you’re boating in waters with an AIS issue…then you don’t have to decontaminate your ground tackle if you didn’t use it. Otherwise your ground tackle will be wet every time you use your boat.

I bought the "proper clam shell style". I enlarged the hole as required. I cannot tighten the nut down due to the flange on the bolt as it is contacting the hull. It's short by about a half inch. Any suggestions?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I bought the "proper clam shell style". I enlarged the hole as required. I cannot tighten the nut down due to the flange on the bolt as it is contacting the hull. It's short by about a half inch. Any

I think there are a couple of options, the first one would be to grind the flange off of that nut, get a flat washer to go under it and flatten it on one side so that it fits over the threads and then tighten the nut down if that will give you enough room. The other thing you might have to do is elongate the hole enough to allow the nut to be installed, and just be sure that you seat the new drain with copious amounts of 5200 and you should be fine. There’s no force at all on that fitting other than a little bit of water friction it gets when it goes to a deep wave but with the 5200 and the nut on the inside, it should be good

 

[kgower]

Grinding the flange was my 1st thought. Even then I'm not not the corner of the bolt still won't prevent me from tightening the bolt.
I had some concern about making the hole any larger.
I looked at some washers at the hardware store on Thursday, and it looks like the option to find some small enough is to drill them out with a 7/8 bit ($25 +/-) which I don't have.
I temporarily reinstalled the OEM fitting which of course is letting in more watter because the whole is about a 1/16th of an i ch bigger all around..

 

[Hot2Go]

Grinding the flange was my 1st thought. Even then I'm not not the corner of the bolt still won't prevent me from tightening the bolt.
I had some concern about making the hole any larger.
I looked at some washers at the hardware store on Thursday, and it looks like the option to find some small enough is to drill them out with a 7/8 bit ($25 +/-) which I don't have.
I temporarily reinstalled the OEM fitting which of course is letting in more watter because the whole is about a 1/16th of an i ch bigger all around..

All I did was seal the exposed fiberglass with 4200, put 4200 on the drain itself to stick to the hull, and then tightened the nut. Once it was tight enough I poured flex seal liquid in the bottom of the locker (to level out and make the drain actually work). I figured with all the sealant I used it would hold it in place even if the nut wasn’t perfectly seated. Haven’t had an issue since!

 

[drewkaree]

Grinding the flange was my 1st thought. Even then I'm not not the corner of the bolt still won't prevent me from tightening the bolt.
I had some concern about making the hole any larger.
I looked at some washers at the hardware store on Thursday, and it looks like the option to find some small enough is to drill them out with a 7/8 bit ($25 +/-) which I don't have.
I temporarily reinstalled the OEM fitting which of course is letting in more watter because the whole is about a 1/16th of an i ch bigger all around..

Since the sealant is what is actually doing the heavy lifting and keeping it stuck on the boat, I'd round whatever was needed to allow you to snug it up to the wall. You can tighten it up pretty well with fingers or a vice grips, and adding Loctite should be a final addition that should be perfectly acceptable, and shouldn't come loose

Alternative would be to find an Ace Hardware that has a nut without a flange, and perhaps it's thinner?

Stacking rubber washers is another consideration. Sealant, again, is keeping the fitting tight to the hull, so the washers are just serving as friction spacers to keep things snug, long-term, for your situation. Metal washers could be 5200'd together to create a bushing of sorts, for that 1/2"