FSH 252/255 Audio Upgrades

[Zackdadams]

Here is a detailed walk-through of Audio System upgrades I'm doing to my FSH 252.
Before I begin, I am a Master Electrical Contractor with many many years of residential, commercial, marine, and car audio systems.
Please don't attempt this yourself!
I am not responsible if you damage your boat.

I've been unhappy with the system that came with the boat, so I'm adding a Kicker KMC5 head unit.
The FSH 252 comes with 6 Wet Sounds 6 1/2" Speakers, so the KMC5 is the perfect choice as it outputs 25watts x 6 @ 4 ohm.
The Wet Sounds speakers are 4 ohm by the way.


On this hot summer day, I was glad I had my Klein battery powered fan!


Step 1: Remove and later relocate the 12 volt outlet and aux Jack.
Make sure your battery is off!
These simply unscrew from the back.
For whatever reason the aux Jack unscrews in reverse.
I'll be reinstalling the 12v Outlet to a different location soon.
The aux Jack is plugged in with an RCA cable behind the Connext screen.
I will not be reusing this.


Step 2: Drill 3-in hole.
The Kicker unit comes with a rubber gasket that also acts as a template for the hole we need.
(Make sure there are no wires behind this area!) You'll want to run a pilot hole in the center first.
Afterwards run your hole saw in reverse for a moment to get through the gel coat without cracking it.
Then go ahead switch the drill to forward and finish drilling your hole.




Step 3: Insert the head unit, and drill 4x small holes for the bolts.
The unit came with wood screws so I picked up 4x 6x32 pan head bolts with nuts and lock washers.
Finish it up with a little bit of lock tight on the nuts.



Step 4: Disconnect and remove the Wet Sounds amplifier.
Make sure your battery is off!
Using a small allen wrench remove the left side plate on the wet sounds amplifier, then using a larger allen wrench remove the red and black power wires.
There are two quick connect plugs on the amplifier.
The bottom plug feeds the speakers.
The top plug feeds from the Connext screen.
Unplug both of those and remove the amplifier.


Step 5: The 12v Power Wiring.
All of this should be in split tubing. (Mine is on order, and i'll be installing it soon.)
Attach #12 red & black from the KMC5 to the power wires you just disconnected from the amplifier.
I recommend you put this into a fused distribution block.

Step 6: The Speaker wiring.
(From here on out I will be using the following tools and parts: Klein 3005CR ratcheting crimp tool, Klein 11061 wire strippers, #16 heat shrink butt connectors.

Green + Green/Black - Rear Left
Blue + Blue/Black - Rear Right
White + White/Black - Front Left
Grey + Grey/Black - Front Right
Bottom White + White/Black - Zone 2 Left
Bottom Grey + Grey/Black - Zone 2 Right

The bottom plug to the amplifier has four sets of wires: white/white black, gray/gray black, blue/blue black, green/green black.
This gets a little tricky because white and gray are not feeding directly to the speakers.
They are combining the front seating area speakers with the speakers on the side of the center console.
What you'll want to do is remove the white hard plastic at the bottom of the center console, and find the black split tubing coming from the front seating area.
Inside you will find white and gray speaker wires. We will be calling this zone 2.
Run two sets of speaker wires from the kicker to these, using butt connectors.
Solid white is positive; white with black stripe is negative.
Using a heat gun, carefully heat the shrink tubing.
Afterwards reassemble the the white hard plastic as we are done underneath the console.


Now cut the speaker wire connector from the amplifier, leaving about 6 in of wire so this can be reinstalled if needed in the future.
Do not cut the top plug from the amplifier as it's feeding into the Connext screen.
It has a red plug so it's easy to spot the difference.

We will only be using the blue and green wires at this connection.
Run 2 sets of speaker wires from the KMC5 over to the recently cut amplifier wires.
Blue is the top right tower speaker, green is the top left tower speaker.
Connect those to rear left and rear right respectively.

Run another speaker wire from the Kicker directly to the left center console speaker
At this speaker, cut back the white/white black 6in from the quick connect plug.
Connect this speaker to Front Left on the KMC5.
Connect the Right center console speaker directly to the KMC5, on Front Right.
Finally connect the FM antenna.
Heat all of the heat shrink connectors, tidy everything up with zip ties, and you are done!



Final Thoughts:
I've turned on the Loudness feature on the KMC5, and set the high pass filter.
The result is rich sound, with powerful mid bass.
It brings to life these Wet Sound speakers in a way Yamaha did not.
Even at full volume, there is little to no distortion.
At this point some of you would not even opt for a subwoofer!
It sounds great!

EDIT: After writing this tutorial I went ahead and replaced my tower and bow speakers.
I've installed Wet Sounds Revo 6-SWB's
I then added a Kicker KXMA800.4 Amp to push these, separated by Zone 1/2.
This provides 100w x 4 RMS.
FYI you get into the zone settings on the KMC5, by holding down the menu button.
After which under Zone 2 select "Both".




I also replaced the rear audio controller.
I had to remove the rear right cup holder to gain access the remote.
The cup holders have a stainless ring that you twist off, and then there are three Phillips head screws that hold it in place.
There was one nut and washer holding the factory remote in, on the back.
It was also stuck to the boat with adhesive.

The only tricky part was drilling a larger hole to support the Kicker Remote Commander, which I believe was a 2-1/8".
The current hole was around 1".

I first had to drill the correct size hole into a piece of plywood, then hold that over the area and use it as a guide.

I applied blue painters tape to the area and then ran my hole saw in reverse until it cut through.

Afterwards, I had to fish the wire all the way to the center console, using glow rods.

However I ran into an issue where the Connext screen is beeping and saying
"rear radio controller not found, contact your dealer", which is clear-able when you click okay.
After talking with my dealer, we're not sure we can clear that error message about the missing rear remote.
Ultimately I zip tied the original factory remote up inside the hull, and just left it there.

 

[Zackdadams]

Subwoofer and Amp Installation:


First I ran new solid copper #2 power wires from the center console to the battery compartment.
I did this by removing the white hard plastic bottom, then I used glow rods to fish the wire.
I wrapped the wires in 1" split tubing.




I then installed 2 distribution blocks with an in-line fuse in the center console.
I applied dielectric grease to the connections to prevent corrosion.
At the batteries, I installed new battery terminals made for #2 wire.
Don't connect the terminals to the battery until the installation is complete.



Next I installed the amplifier.
I connected the amp to the distribution blocks.
Afterwards I ran a new #12 blue remote wire to the KMC5 head unit.
This will turn off the amp with the radio.
I also ran the RCA cable, putting these in split tubing.





Now for the fun part.
Cutting the opening for the subwoofer.
The sub came with a template, so after accessing the location, I had to remove the rod holders.
I taped the template where I wanted it, and outlined the circle in permanent marker.
I then removed the template, and taped completely around it in painters tape.
The tape serves 2 purposes.
First to prevent the gel coat from cracking, and second to keep from scratching the surface when running the jigsaw.


Next i checked clearance behide the area, making sure there were no wires or cables.
In my case, my throttle cables were dangerously close, so i zip tied them away.
I then drilled a series of holes around the paremeter for the saw blade.
Time for the cutting.
I set up a shop vac to catch as much dust as possible, and also put on a mask.



After the hole was cut, i taped the template back, and drilled the pilot holes for mounting.
I then screwed in the sub, and the grill.
I remounted the rod holders, leaving out the center due to clearance issues.



Next I ran new #10 speaker wire from the amplifier to subwoofer, applying dielectric grease at both ends.
I use screw down zip tie mounts to hold it in place.

Finally I attach the new battery terminals, and install the in-line fuse.

I turned on the system, chose a song (Turn Down For What?!) with a maximum amount of bass, and adjust the amplifier gain, and crossover, at maximum volume.
This is to insure we don't blow any speakers, no matter what music or volume we use.
I also raised the crossover frequency for the 6 1/2" Speakers, since the bass will be mainly from the sub.
This reduces distortion at high volumes.


Needless to say a 12" sub is a huge speaker!
It sounds amazing.
You feel it in your chest.
I'll have to see well it performs when I'm doing 40 mph!
I'll keep you posted!

 

[Jdgars]

Very nice write up! Have u decided if and where you gonna relocate the 12 bolt outlet and aux jack? And where you putting the subwoofer?

 

[Zackdadams]

I ran out of time but I'm going to install the 12 volt Outlet to the left of the KMC5.
The aux Jack I'm not reusing. I have no need for it.

The subwoofer will be installed in the center console underneath the right wet sound speaker.

It's a free air subwoofer so the center console will act as its box.

 

[sleili]

Amazing write up! Really appreciate all of the insight and detailed steps. Can't wait to hear how it is out on the water! I did have one question. Is there a reason you chose to use the front speakers as Zone 2 vs. the tower speakers? As I was researching the unit, I was thinking it would be a great idea to utilize the relative volume feature for the tower speakers to ensure you had enough volume at the helm without blowing out the rest of the boat. Just curious as to your thoughts around that! Thanks again!

 

[Zackdadams]

Personally I am not going to separate out things into zone one and two, so it didn't matter to me.

My main use will be at a sandbar entertaining the crowd.

But it's a great idea for customization!

Also I just picked up the NMEA cables, so I'm curious to see how it will interact with the Simrad.
Unfortunately it's storming right now!

 

[sleili]

Personally I am not going to separate out things into zone one and two, so it didn't matter to me.

My main use will be at a sandbar entertaining the crowd.

But it's a great idea for customization!

Also I just picked up the NMEA cables, so I'm curious to see how it will interact with the Simrad.
Unfortunately it's storming right now!

Awesome to hear on the NMEA! Can’t wait! I think it would be a cool experiment to do the Zone 2 so when I get my boat, that’s what I’ll do! Ordering my KMC5 this weekend!

 

[Kevin Barry]

How much would that run me with installation? My experience in audio equipment is from when I used to make every window vibrate on my 1988 bmw 535 . I installed myself , but over 15 years ago !!

 

[Zackdadams]

The entire setup?
Hmm. I think it was around $2500 in parts.
Installation from an audio shop would probably run you $1000.

 

[Kevin Barry]

You’re killing me !! Lol . I’m going to have to wait . Thanks !!! I definitely want to upgrade .

 

[adrianp89]

You’re killing me !! Lol . I’m going to have to wait . Thanks !!! I definitely want to upgrade .

Don't let it deter you, this install, is very straight forward. You could do this by your self in a day with no experience.

He has a smooth hand with the jigsaw, get your self a dremel and circle jig and you can make a perfect circle.

 

[Zackdadams]

Have fun using a Dremel!
The side walls are an inch and a quarter thick!

 

[adrianp89]

In that spot it looks like a standard router can be used. Tighter spots the dremel works great but the hull is 1/4”

 

[Hmkingsley]

Did you retain the use of the fusion radio head on the stern?

 

[Zackdadams]

I bought a replacement controller for the stern, from Kicker.

Have yet to install it though.
Too busy with work.

 

[Hmkingsley]

I bought a replacement controller for the stern, from Kicker.

Have yet to install it though.
Too busy with work.

Oh ok. I saw that listed on Amazon. I’m a helicopter avionics tech and know a little bit lol. What amp was installed from the factory? It just seems odd that the sound is so crappy considering everything that wet sounds produces is if relatively good quality… I was looking at doing a 65wx4 channel amp and leaving the controls in the connext until I thought about being able to leave my engine gauges up and still tune the radio. Seems trivial but I like knowing what’s going on at all times lol.

 

[Zackdadams]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2021-fsh-252-sport-thread.29278/post-542554

Being that there are absolutely no adjustment controls on the Connext head unit, and the fact that you would have to do some sort of line converter to get RCA outs makes replacing the factory amplifier kind of pointless in my mind.

I've also said this a few times but a passenger has to reach over the steering wheel to try to adjust the audio while you're driving, very clunky and dangerous. Plus you can't see the RPM gauge when the radio screen is on.

Do yourself a favor and add that Kicker KMC5 and don't look back.

Also you really should read through our primary FSH 252 post, there are is a lot of good information from everyone there.

 

[Zackdadams]

I just upgraded my 2 Tower speakers.
The speakers that come with the boat are pretty good, and overall I have been extremely pleased with them.



However, I am an audio enthusiast as you could probably already guess, so I wanted a little extra sound.

When you are driving, it's nice to be able to turn up the tower speakers without cranking the front passenger speakers.
Adding component speakers with amplifier gives you much more control and customization with sound.

I installed 2 new Wet Sounds Revo 6-SWW's.
These are high output and can handle more wattage then your typical component speaker.
Look at the difference between those two speakers!
They also have LED lighting but I haven't hooked that up yet because I will need to get a controller.
(And I really don't care because I never drive the boat at night LOL)



Additionally I installed a new amplifier to run those two speakers; an MB Quart NA2-400.2
That's a compact Marine amplifier that is inexpensive and was in stock.
It outputs 100w x 2 at 4 ohms.
Similar wet sounds and kicker amplifiers did not put out enough wattage in a compact design.



And I finally got around to installing the rear Kicker Remote at the stern.
However I ran into an issue where the Connext screen is beeping and saying
"rear radio controller not found, contact your dealer", which is clearable when you click okay.
My dealer is investigating it.



Anyway, Sounds amazing!
More upgrades to come in the future I'm sure LOL!

 

[Jdgars]

I just upgraded my 2 Tower speakers.
The speakers that come with the boat are pretty good, and overall I have been extremely pleased with them.

View attachment 161219

However, I am an audio enthusiast as you could probably already guess, so I wanted a little extra sound.

When you are driving, it's nice to be able to turn up the tower speakers without cranking the front passenger speakers.
Adding component speakers with amplifier gives you much more control and customization with sound.

I installed 2 new Wet Sounds Revo 6-SWW's.
These are high output and can handle more wattage then your typical component speaker.
Look at the difference between those two speakers!
They also have LED lighting but I haven't hooked that up yet because I will need to get a controller.
(And I really don't care because I never drive the boat at night LOL)

View attachment 161220 View attachment 161221 View attachment 161224

Additionally I installed a new amplifier to run those two speakers; an MB Quart NA2-400.2
That's a compact Marine amplifier that is inexpensive and was in stock.
It outputs 100w x 2 at 4 ohms.
Similar wet sounds and kicker amplifiers did not put out enough wattage in a compact design.

View attachment 161222 View attachment 161227

And I finally got around to installing the rear Kicker Remote at the stern.
However I ran into an issue where the Connext screen is beeping and saying
"rear radio controller not found, contact your dealer", which is clearable when you click okay.
My dealer is investigating it.

View attachment 161223

Anyway, Sounds amazing!
More upgrades to come in the future I'm sure LOL!

Was it hard to remove the rear factory remote?

 

[Zackdadams]

I had to remove the rear right cup holder to gain access the remote.

The cup holders have a stainless ring that you twist off, and then there are three Phillips head screws that hold it in place.

There was one nut and washer holding the factory remote in, on the back.
It was also stuck to the boat with adhesive.

The only tricky part was drilling a larger hole to support the Kicker Remote Commander, which I believe was a 2-1/8".
The current hole was around 1".

I first had to drill the correct size hole into a piece of plywood, then hold that over the area and use it as a guide.

I applied blue painters tape to the area and then ran my hole saw in reverse until it cut through.

Afterwards, I had to fish the wire all the way to the center console, using glow rods.

Additionally after talking with my dealer, we're not sure we can clear that error message about the missing rear remote.
So I think what I'm going to do is just take the cup holder back out and zip tie the original factory remote up inside the hull, and just leave it there.