FSH 252/255 Audio Upgrades

[Mowery9192]

Thanks so much for sharing this great info! We finally took delivery of our 255 and we totally agree - the stock sound leaves a lot to be desired. Since my wife is 100% on board, I'm planning on following your guidelines and go with upgrades you've recommended! I'm curious though - did you consider keeping the Wetsounds amp to power two sets of upgraded speakers, or were you already past keeping it once you went with the six channel head unit?

I'll also add my 2 cents on fiberglass hole drilling - over the years I've had great luck using diamond hole saws (normally for tile / glass) to cut very clean holes in fiberglass - they're a bit more expensive, but the results are definitely worth it! A worker in a yard we were hauled up in years ago showed me this - best advice ever! Same for jigsaw blades - cuts very cleanly through the FRP!

Thanks again for the great posts!

 

[Zackdadams]

The factory wet sounds amplifier is basically unusable without the factory head unit.

Do yourself a favor, buy the kicker KMC5 and don't look back.

 

[Mowery9192]

Well all right then! Damn the wet sounds amp - full speed ahead!!

 

[42superman]

So not a FSH but I have a 22 AR250 that I have added a whole new system to. (6) speakers, (2) towers and (2) subs. Powered by (3) amps. All new cables, speakers, power and grounds... the works. Now it has the connect system so I tried to use the speaker wires to feed each amp through the high line inputs and it has a terrible noise through the speakers. So i then removed that and wired in RCA inputs and new RCA cables to the amps. The noise is still there. Nothing I do will get rid of it. Any suggestions?

 

[jocolo21]

So not a FSH but I have a 22 AR250 that I have added a whole new system to. (6) speakers, (2) towers and (2) subs. Powered by (3) amps. All new cables, speakers, power and grounds... the works. Now it has the connect system so I tried to use the speaker wires to feed each amp through the high line inputs and it has a terrible noise through the speakers. So i then removed that and wired in RCA inputs and new RCA cables to the amps. The noise is still there. Nothing I do will get rid of it. Any suggestions?

BUY a audio control unit you can buy with a number of channels example or an lc2 with a channel for amps and another for sub amp, it will keep the voltage from the connext to 6 volt keeping it constant and rid of noise, I know it works i did it, but then i went the same route and bypass the connex but wut fusion unit a fusion Ethernet remote, works great

 

[Nick255FSH]

Here is a detailed walk-through of Audio System upgrades I'm doing to my FSH 252.
Before I begin, I am a Master Electrical Contractor with many many years of residential, commercial, marine, and car audio systems.
Please don't attempt this yourself! ?
I am not responsible if you damage your boat.

I've been unhappy with the system that came with the boat, so I'm adding a Kicker KMC5 head unit.
The FSH 252 comes with 6 Wet Sounds 6 1/2" Speakers, so the KMC5 is the perfect choice as it outputs 25watts x 6 @ 4 ohm.
The Wet Sounds speakers are 4 ohm by the way.
View attachment 153836

On this hot summer day, I was glad I had my Klein battery powered fan!
View attachment 153847

Step 1: Remove and later relocate the 12 volt outlet and aux Jack.
Make sure your battery is off!
These simply unscrew from the back.
For whatever reason the aux Jack unscrews in reverse.
I'll be reinstalling the 12v Outlet to a different location soon.
The aux Jack is plugged in with an RCA cable behind the Connext screen.
I will not be reusing this.
View attachment 153827

Step 2: Drill 3-in hole.
The Kicker unit comes with a rubber gasket that also acts as a template for the hole we need.
(Make sure there are no wires behind this area!) You'll want to run a pilot hole in the center first.
Afterwards run your hole saw in reverse for a moment to get through the gel coat without cracking it.
Then go ahead switch the drill to forward and finish drilling your hole.
View attachment 153835
View attachment 153828
View attachment 153837

Step 3: Insert the head unit, and drill 4x small holes for the bolts.
The unit came with wood screws so I picked up 4x 6x32 pan head bolts with nuts and lock washers.
Finish it up with a little bit of lock tight on the nuts.
View attachment 153842
View attachment 153830

Step 4: Disconnect and remove the Wet Sounds amplifier.
Make sure your battery is off!
Using a small allen wrench remove the left side plate on the wet sounds amplifier, then using a larger allen wrench remove the red and black power wires.
There are two quick connect plugs on the amplifier.
The bottom plug feeds the speakers.
The top plug feeds from the Connext screen.
Unplug both of those and remove the amplifier.
View attachment 153840

Step 5: The 12v Power Wiring.
All of this should be in split tubing. (Mine is on order, and i'll be installing it soon.)
Attach #12 red & black from the KMC5 to the power wires you just disconnected from the amplifier.
I recommend you put this into a fused distribution block.

Step 6: The Speaker wiring.
(From here on out I will be using the following tools and parts: Klein 3005CR ratcheting crimp tool, Klein 11061 wire strippers, #16 heat shrink butt connectors.
View attachment 153852
Green + Green/Black - Rear Left
Blue + Blue/Black - Rear Right
White + White/Black - Front Left
Grey + Grey/Black - Rear Right
Bottom White + White/Black - Zone 2 Left
Bottom Grey + Grey/Black - Zone 2 Right

The bottom plug to the amplifier has four sets of wires: white/white black, gray/gray black, blue/blue black, green/green black.
This gets a little tricky because white and gray are not feeding directly to the speakers.
They are combining the front seating area speakers with the speakers on the side of the center console.
What you'll want to do is remove the white hard plastic at the bottom of the center console, and find the black split tubing coming from the front seating area.
Inside you will find white and gray speaker wires. We will be calling this zone 2.
Run two sets of speaker wires from the kicker to these, using butt connectors.
Solid white is positive; white with black stripe is negative.
Using a heat gun, carefully heat the shrink tubing.
Afterwards reassemble the the white hard plastic as we are done underneath the console.
View attachment 153831

Now cut the speaker wire connector from the amplifier, leaving about 6 in of wire so this can be reinstalled if needed in the future.
Do not cut the top plug from the amplifier as it's feeding into the Connext screen.
It has a red plug so it's easy to spot the difference.

We will only be using the blue and green wires at this connection.
Run 2 sets of speaker wires from the KMC5 over to the recently cut amplifier wires.
Blue is the top right tower speaker, green is the top left tower speaker.
Connect those to rear left and rear right respectively.

Run another speaker wire from the Kicker directly to the left center console speaker
At this speaker, cut back the white/white black 6in from the quick connect plug.
Connect this speaker to Front Left on the KMC5.
Connect the Right center console speaker directly to the KMC5, on Front Right.
Finally connect the FM antenna.
Heat all of the heat shrink connectors, tidy everything up with zip ties, and you are done!
View attachment 153833
View attachment 153834

Final Thoughts:
I've turned on the Loudness feature on the KMC5, and set the high pass filter.
The result is rich sound, with powerful mid bass.
It brings to life these Wet Sound speakers in a way Yamaha did not.
Even at full volume, there is little to no distortion.
At this point some of you would not even opt for a subwoofer!
It sounds great!

Zack, this is a great write up. I am in the waiting game period for my the 255. I plan on installing the KMC5 following your lead and the remote kicker as well. Did you end up removing the wet sounds AMP? I have a 500W Marine Skar Amp I want to install in it's place. I also plan on replacing the bow & tower speakers with Skar 6.5' speakers and replace the console speakers with 8'' Skars.

 

[Zackdadams]

Yes. Wet Sounds factory amp is history.
Skar makes some nice stuff I hear.
Keep us posted.

 

[Bjensen24]

I’ve been following this post for awhile. And honestly thought I would be ok with the factory system. I wasn’t. For the most part I copied Zach and just made a couple slight changes. I am not a master electrical contractor so I wanted to share that I think most people can do this. I added the kmc5 as well and the kicker transom remote. So far have only added a jl m6 10” sub. And a jl 200/2 amp. My plan is the swap the 6 factory speakers for jl m6 as well keeping 6.5 for the bow and t-top speakers and changing the center console for the jl m6 8.8 and run all those from a jl 800/8 amp. Someday I may hook up all the rgb lights but not pressing for right now.

 

[Zackdadams]

Fantastic!
Interesting sub location!

 

[Nick255FSH]

I’ve been following this post for awhile. And honestly thought I would be ok with the factory system. I wasn’t. For the most part I copied Zach and just made a couple slight changes. I am not a master electrical contractor so I wanted to share that I think most people can do this. I added the kmc5 as well and the kicker transom remote. So far have only added a jl m6 10” sub. And a jl 200/2 amp. My plan is the swap the 6 factory speakers for jl m6 as well keeping 6.5 for the bow and t-top speakers and changing the center console for the jl m6 8.8 and run all those from a jl 800/8 amp. Someday I may hook up all the rgb lights but not pressing for right now. View attachment 171875View attachment 171876View attachment 171877View attachment 171878View attachment 171879View attachment 171880View attachment 171881View attachment 171882View attachment 171883View attachment 171884View attachment 171885

Looks great!

Silly question, how did you get that piece of wood behind the fiberglass for the remote kicker? I only ask because I will be mirroring you & Zack's audio upgrades when my boat arrives...

 

[Bjensen24]

Looks great!

Silly question, how did you get that piece of wood behind the fiberglass for the remote kicker? I only ask because I will be mirroring you & Zack's audio upgrades when my boat arrives...

So I was able to cut a small enough piece and stick it down through the cup holder and hold it to get a screw in. Really the hardest part was the top screw I couldn’t go any higher or it would hit the hole saw. Also depending on how long your arms are there is a small access panel between the to jet port clean out. I didn’t trust myself to be steady enough to use Zach’s truck of first cutting a hole in the wood and holding it in place so I had a buddy suggest putting a board behind and it worked perfect. I also left the factory remote inside zip tied up like Zach suggested.

 

[Nick255FSH]

So I was able to cut a small enough piece and stick it down through the cup holder and hold it to get a screw in. Really the hardest part was the top screw I couldn’t go any higher or it would hit the hole saw. Also depending on how long your arms are there is a small access panel between the to jet port clean out. I didn’t trust myself to be steady enough to use Zach’s truck of first cutting a hole in the wood and holding it in place so I had a buddy suggest putting a board behind and it worked perfect. I also left the factory remote inside zip tied up like Zach suggested.

Makes sense! Nice job!

 

[Bjensen24]

So I was able to talk to wife into a compromise. Found some revo6 and revo8 speakers factory refurb. So she let me finish. I almost went with skar the reviews sound great but couldn’t bring myself to make the holes bigger in my boat and not be able to switch back to what I really wanted with jl. Anyways the result is awesome it really sounds amazing possibly even overkill. But hey I can always turn it down lol.

 

[Zackdadams]

Awesome!

 

[Bjensen24]

This is less about the audio but thought it might be relevant. This is what I did to limit the engine noise. “Before the new stereo lol”. It really did make a huge difference.

 

[Nick255FSH]

Outstanding!

 

[TexAg-00]

This is less about the audio but thought it might be relevant. This is what I did to limit the engine noise. “Before the new stereo lol”. It really did make a huge difference.

Dude - that’s perfect! Can you share what products you used for that noise reduction project?

 

[Bjensen24]

So for the engine hatch I used 1/2 pipe insulation the self adhesive kind and just kinda opened it up and molded it around. The two side compartments I used automotive weather stripping from Home Depot it had a self adhesive back as well. I double it up so it would make a solid seal with the factory white one that is stuck to the lid. I was really surprised how much it helped. And total cost was like 8$

 

[TexAg-00]

So for the engine hatch I used 1/2 pipe insulation the self adhesive kind and just kinda opened it up and molded it around. The two side compartments I used automotive weather stripping from Home Depot it had a self adhesive back as well. I double it up so it would make a solid seal with the factory white one that is stuck to the lid. I was really surprised how much it helped. And total cost was like 8$

Awesome - thanks!

 

[TexAg-00]

Awesome!

Hey Zack - I've been reading this post through a few times and I just caught this in one of your pics. What is it? Did it come with the KMC5? I haven't opened the box yet (its up at the boat).