AR195 Power Tower Mod

[dshscarab]

After reading where a couple wanted a power tower option for their Yamaha Jetboat, I decided to work on the idea.
- I measured the slack in the factory cable for when the tower was in the lower (folded) position. This gave a result of approximately 8". I then looked on Amazon to find linear actuators that have a stroke of 8". The Windy Nation kit complete with momentary switch appeared it would be satisfactory. I then ordered separate heavy duty actuator brackets which allow four (4) screws to be installed. I really wanted to use through bolts but I was not able to get to the underside within the compartment. Stainless steel screws such as the ones that come with trim tabs were used to screw the brackets to the side compartment floor. I then placed the tower in the full upright position. Actuator is lowest position (closed). I used chain that I purchased from Home Depot to connect the top of the actuator to the bottom of the adjustable bolt of the cable from the wake tower. Cable to cable could have been used. I thought using the chain would be easier. The momentary switch was placed initially in the battery compartment but I have since moved it after making the video to near the throttle lever so that I can control it while driving if need be. Positive from the switch was ran to positive battery switch post protected with a 10 Amp fuse. Obviously, ground to battery ground.
I have had this set up a few weeks on the boat without any problems or concerns. While under way, I do tighten the wake tower bolts so that no extra stress it put on the actuator brackets or the hull. (Since there is no through hull bolt / nut). I have included the links below.

Brackets: Mounting Brackets Link 2pcs US Stock for DC12V/24V Linear Actuator Motor Black | eBay
Actuators: Amazon.com: WindyNation (2pcs) 12 Volt, 225 lbs Linear Actuators + Up Down DPDT Switch + Mounting Brackets + Connectors (Momentary or Maintained Up Down Switch) (8" Linear Actuator, Momentary Switch): Home Improvement
Video:

 

[dshscarab]

Here is some pictures taken for above

 

[MattFX4]

Man that’s cool as hell. Nice work!

 

[haknslash]

Nice job!

 

[jEt_jAk]

That’s amazing!!

 

[seanmclean]

Dude, this is AWESOME. I wonder how it would hold up with the added weight of tower speakers.

 

[dshscarab]

I have inspected the screws and have not noticed any problems. I have the screws also going through the carpet that is in the compartment. This may help with the hold and stress put on the bracket by weight. I really wanted to do the through hull bolts but even after removing the fuel tank floor, I was not able to access the underside of the compartment. If you had tower speakers or extra items, I would be careful and perform little tests along the way. Also, I left the original tower stops (washers) in place so that when the tower is folded, there is no stress on the actuators or brackets. Under no conditions, would I run the boat anything above slow speed without the tower locking knobs screwed in.

 

[2kwik4u]

Well done sir.

How are the actuators wired to each other? I'm assuming there is one on each side.

 

[dshscarab]

Yes. There are actuators on each side. I used different wiring then supplied due to the size of the wire that was provided. The actuators are wired in parallel to the switch. The switch is a reverse current type (think of a power window motor in a car). I ran the wires through a loom in the front of the engine compartment to connect the sides.

 

[swatski]

Yes. There are actuators on each side. I used different wiring then supplied due to the size of the wire that was provided. The actuators are wired in parallel to the switch. The switch is a reverse current type (think of a power window motor in a car). I ran the wires through a loom in the front of the engine compartment to connect the sides.

Very creative!
I can see how having actuators mounted like this could also be helpful in AR240s towers where lining up the handwheel bolts precisely requires some push to the tower legs and can be difficult without help.

The new 242x tower rising/lowering actuators are embedded in the tower, totally different concept.

The things I would be concerned about is the screws holding the actuator being pulled out. I will happen, if it’s used a lot. The FRP there is weak and full of voids. Getting through bolts along any structural enforcements could be done by cutting access ports?

Yamaha will not necessarily hesitate to use any excuse to deny a warranty claim. I would not be surprised if they considered this mod as a reason to void warranty were something to happen with the tower, even if a manufacturing defect’s discovered.

The factory cables are rated for static loads only, and those can snap if the tower is lowered quickly. I’ll leave it at that, lol.

If the devise helps align handwheel bolts with female threads in the base of the tower - this is can be a very helpful invention!

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[dshscarab]

Interesting and not surprised that Yamaha or any manufacturer would use any excuse to void or not cover a warranty issue. Prior to law enforcement, I used to be a Ford technician for over 15 years. So believe me, I have seen the "sorry it's not covered on warranty due to" excuse.
I did not know about the static load on the cables. I will say that the tower does move slow. The actuators are not high speed by any means. I did tighten the nut a little to really pull it up tight so that I can just screw the tower lock knobs in place without putting any pressure on the tower with my other hand. Once tighten, if I know I am going in the ocean or some hard running. I have been releasing the tension on the system by moving the actuator switch to the lower position just for a second or two.
I really would have really liked to use the through bolts and nut the other side but I was scared to cut a access hole into the boat. (Probably more scared as not knowing what was behind it.) It has been several weeks and I haven't seen any problems as of yet. I usually check the actuators and mounts after every outing. (At least at this stage)

 

[2kwik4u]

Yea, so long as you're releasing the tension on the actuators during boat operation in the water I think those screws will last a good long time. Especially on the 190 towers that are a little smaller than the 240's (not really smaller, but less forward sweep maybe?, not sure how to describe that).

@swatski The 190 towers require a little "nudging" the get them aligned as well. It's not just the 240's. I have to "bump" mine with my hip each time I raise/lower the tower to get them aligned properly before threading. I suspect the mounts are just a shade wider than the tower. Either a fixture issue from the factory (either tower or base fixture is off), OR it's weld shrinkage from fabrication on the tower. Either way, it's mildly annoying.

Would be cool to see this concept evolved into a solid linkage with the actuators mounted horizontally, and the entire apparatus tucked up into the gunwale. Maybe part duex?

 

[Weeb]

Nice job

 

[Shabah182]

Very good work! I know I'm digging up an old thread. But wouldnt 1 actuator work on the STB side? Less work and brings some of the wiring for the switch closer to the console. Thoughts?

 

[dshscarab]

Maybe, but used two so there is no flexing of the tower or boat causing stress. Besides, approximately two (2) months ago, I actually finally had the screws start to pull out on the brackets on the starboard side. Since I now keep the boat in my garage, the tower would go low enough with the actuators hooked up. I have since disconnected the actuators so that I can lower the tower more. If I decide to go back to them, I will probably have to cut an access hole to nut and bolt it. No to thrilled about doing that.

 

[Jdl110]

@dshscarab Wanted to get your thoughts on if this will work with an AR250. The tower mounts attached to the gunnel do not have room for an actual actuator shaft (.85in diameter) so I was thinking removing the wire cable and honing out that hole to fit a solid 1/2 or 7/16 stainless rod that would then be connected to a linear actuator that is thru bolted, either bottom or side of boat with backing plate behind the upholstery piece. This would reduce a chance of the factory cable breaking.

I only need 12 inches to clear our bridges and lowering the tower gives 17 inches now so the rod would not have to be as long as the factory cable now.

thanks for your help.