AR250 remote removal

[seanxnj]

added a Hertz receiver to my boat and wanted to add the remote in the same place the factory one is. Can’t for the life of my figure out how to remove the stock one. Tried going through cup holder but it’s impossible. Arm won’t even fit through. Any ideas? It’s a 2022 BTW.

 

[NJboater]

Also curious. Follow up when you figure it out!

 

[Ronnie]

I’m pretty sure the front bezel pops off to reveal screws. If not try rotating the remote 1/8 to 1/4 inch or pulling up from the bottom, there is a chance the remote slides onto a mounting plate which is attached to the hull with screws. If all else fails you can always take a dremel and or hammer to the stock unit. Good luck.

 

[seanxnj]

So I did figure out how to remove the remote. There was a wing nut on the back along with double sided tape…..

In the process I did find a new problem though. I disconnected what I thought was the amp for my radio. The box mounted in the helm with all the amp and power wires running to it. I noticed today after testing my new set up that I have a couple warnings coming up on my connect.
Cannot communicate with joystick
Cannot communicate with remote.

im thinking that the factory amp has something to do with it and it took a certain amount of start ups for the connex to register it. Any insights?

 

[NJboater]

So I did figure out how to remove the remote. There was a wing nut on the back along with double sided tape…..

In the process I did find a new problem though. I disconnected what I thought was the amp for my radio. The box mounted in the helm with all the amp and power wires running to it. I noticed today after testing my new set up that I have a couple warnings coming up on my connect.
Cannot communicate with joystick
Cannot communicate with remote.

im thinking that the factory amp has something to do with it and it took a certain amount of start ups for the connex to register it. Any insights?

I just started digging into the stereo on my AR250 and learned:
-the remote at the swim deck was held on by double sided adhesive and a weird wing nut that was really difficult to get off due to lack of access behind the remote. I wound up just cutting the wire/screw to get the thing out…..will see what issues that causes and if I need to hook it back up and hide it somewhere.
-I added a ERX400 at the swim deck and RA770 at the helm. Running wires for this wasn’t terrible.
-connecting everything to power tomorrow and hooking up JL M6’s/running new speaker wire. Once everything is wired up and powered I’ll add new findings

 

[thedon]

I just started digging into the stereo on my AR250 and learned:
-the remote at the swim deck was held on by double sided adhesive and a weird wing nut that was really difficult to get off due to lack of access behind the remote. I wound up just cutting the wire/screw to get the thing out…..will see what issues that causes and if I need to hook it back up and hide it somewhere.
-I added a ERX400 at the swim deck and RA770 at the helm. Running wires for this wasn’t terrible.
-connecting everything to power tomorrow and hooking up JL M6’s/running new speaker wire. Once everything is wired up and powered I’ll add new findings

from what I have read the rear remote must remain plugged in or you will get an error message. I read a thread that recommends leaving it plugged in but hidden in the hull

 

[NJboater]

from what I have read the rear remote must remain plugged in or you will get an error message. I read a thread that recommends leaving it plugged in but hidden in the hull

This is correct. I had to reconnect the old remote. Zip tied it up under one of the rear cupholders