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Bad factory holes for fusion radio/remote

Inthrustwetrust

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
478
Reaction score
736
Points
167
Location
Destin FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
After our 2nd outing on the new AR240 we decided some tower speakers might be a good upgrade. Started doing some research to see how the boat is set up from the factory for wiring, pulled the Fusion head unit off the swim deck and noticed they offset the screws way to close to the hole for the unit. The bottom right screw has nothing between the screw hole and the unit hole, the top right is holding on by just a couple strands of fiber glass. Should I bring it in to the dealer or just just do some sort of at home repair. Ideally I would like to just do a little fiberglass repair on the two right holes so the screws don’t fall out. 766B86E7-D3DC-4525-A384-B0CC7CD8F062.jpeg
 
I just put the next size up screw in it. Hand tightened and holds up well. Not sure if the dealer would do anything. My 2 cents anyway. Not thrilled with the fact they cut off the rca's from the factory. Good thing you can get that zone 2 harness with the pre amps on it from amazon. Let me know if you need the info.
 
I just put the next size up screw in it. Hand tightened and holds up well. Not sure if the dealer would do anything. My 2 cents anyway. Not thrilled with the fact they cut off the rca's from the factory. Good thing you can get that zone 2 harness with the pre amps on it from amazon. Let me know if you need the info.

Ya I would love any info you got on the best way to hook/wire everything up. Been browsing the webs for awhile now trying to figure it out. Last time I did stereo work was 15 years ago in my $2000 piece of crap first car, and it was just woofers.

My plan is two 8 inch kicker speakers on the tower and Rockville amp, they have a kit decently priced on their site. I want to keep the stock head unit/Connext setup so we still have the ability to fade. I just want to wire the kickers to zone 2 so we can hear the music on the swim deck/wading in the water and fade out zone 1 while our little naps in her little tent set up we put in the bow.
 
I just upgraded my 195s and added an amp/tower speakers. Had pretty much the same situation on the screw holes but only one of mine was off.

Also, my RCA cables were NOT cut. I purchased a new set of Fusion cables since everyone said they were cut but I did not need them. My post of the install is here: https://jetboaters.net/posts/443352/
 
Fusion part #010-12812-01 on Amazon. Everything else is straight forward. I owe my setup to ChuckZ though. Highly recommend installing a single power from the battery to a fuse block under the helm. It makes life easier when adding powered accessories.
 
After our 2nd outing on the new AR240 we decided some tower speakers might be a good upgrade. Started doing some research to see how the boat is set up from the factory for wiring, pulled the Fusion head unit off the swim deck and noticed they offset the screws way to close to the hole for the unit. The bottom right screw has nothing between the screw hole and the unit hole, the top right is holding on by just a couple strands of fiber glass. Should I bring it in to the dealer or just just do some sort of at home repair. Ideally I would like to just do a little fiberglass repair on the two right holes so the screws don’t fall out. View attachment 119422
So what did you finally go with. I have the 2020 AR240 with the same Fusion head, but I have been fearful of removing the unit and breaking that seal.... Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Or I would use a piece of aluminum flat bar and with 5200 holding it vertically behind that side with screw holes in it
 
My Fusion wasn't really too bad, but one of the screws was over-tightened pulling out the fibrerglass and was loose. I fixed it by putting some silicone into the hole to dry, and when putting the head unit back in it had something to bite into. And since that surface isn't flat, I put a small bead of clear silicone on the back of the head unit when I put it back in and wiped off any excess - water tight seal there now.
 
So what did you finally go with. I have the 2020 AR240 with the same Fusion head, but I have been fearful of removing the unit and breaking that seal.... Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I just used some fiberglass repair kit and some marine sealant. It help up fine for the rest summer. I just got back from a extended trip overseas, I haven’t pulled the cover off the boat yet but I’m sure it’s fine. Far as a seal, I think it’s just a rubber backing, it goes back on just fine, if Yamaha cut the hole properly it wouldn’t have been a issue.
 
I just used some fiberglass repair kit and some marine sealant. It help up fine for the rest summer. I just got back from a extended trip overseas, I haven’t pulled the cover off the boat yet but I’m sure it’s fine. Far as a seal, I think it’s just a rubber backing, it goes back on just fine, if Yamaha cut the hole properly it wouldn’t have been a issue.
I have been to several local install shops and they all want to fill in the transom whole and put the head unit up in the helm as it was originally. Not sure what I want to do yet. Definitely want more sound from the system, but not sure the route to take.
 
we're very satisfied with the sound just adding an amp and tower speakers...then helm speakers (great)...then a sub (ok).
not sure how elaborate of a system you're picturing...but i'm not sure of a great reason to relocate the head unit...seems like having it integrated into the main connext screen is good?
curious if their suggestion is to disconnect it from the connext screen, directly control a new head unit at dash (losing the big volume knob), then add a remote to transom?
 
we're very satisfied with the sound just adding an amp and tower speakers...then helm speakers (great)...then a sub (ok).
not sure how elaborate of a system you're picturing...but i'm not sure of a great reason to relocate the head unit...seems like having it integrated into the main connext screen is good?
curious if their suggestion is to disconnect it from the connext screen, directly control a new head unit at dash (losing the big volume knob), then add a remote to transom?
They were looking to add a different head unit... I am guessing to add more money to the quote. Howerver, I would more than likely, if I went that direction just mount the head unit in the helm and still allow the connext to control it. I know fusion makes bluetooth remote that can be mounted on the transom with some velcro or maybe a suction mount... but at that i would just use my phone instead from the transom.
 
I kept my main stereo head at the helm and put in nmea wired remote on back. Here is link to those remote options for Fusion.

Marine Remote Controls

Seperate cabled fuse panel at helm along with adding nmea 2k network also allowed for radio, gps/plotter, antenae splitter/booster, additional usb charge ports, etc power needs later with greater ease.
 
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