Buffing Exterior

[OCMD]

No offense taken, of course. You nailed it. If you use a DA improperly, you will cut right through the gel coat and it won't take long at all - linger a few seconds too much in one spot and you are burning through the gel coat. Of course, any idiot who would use a wool pad on a boat gets what they deserve. Don't know why anyone would use a wool pad to wax a boat, however. So if inexperienced, I suggest spending very little and using a tool that does not have the power to burn thru the gel coat if you do not use it correctly, but is very effective in waxing. If experienced in these matters, by all means spend the money for the more expensive product if you want. It's just not necessary to gain an effective finished product, as you see by my video.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

I think you are a little confused on the difference between a DA and a rotary. The DA is fairly harmless but can correct a fair amount of surface scratches and oxidation. A rotary is basically a sander with a wool or foam pad that can be lethal to any surface. Wool compounding pads are the standard in the auto and marine surface correction business. The proper use of a rotary buffer is an art and takes a lot of practice not to burn and leave buffer trails. The DA polisher hit the market aimed at the DIY market because of its gentle action and forgiving learning curve. Both are great tools when used properly. Apply wax by hand or with a DA and correct surface defects with a rotary.

Bottom line is that if you buy a new boat and keep up on the waxing and washing, you won't need all of these fancy tools and techniques. But, Mother Nature and those glorious UV rays are working hard against us every day so it's just a matter of time before you'll need a buffer.

 

[OCMD]

No, I am talking about an orbital polisher, not a rotary sander. As I understand it, the drive unit in the orbital polisher uses two different mechanical actions to spin the buffing pad when polishing the applied wax. The orbital polisher's action causes the pad (or in my case since the pad is a POS in the cheap units, the microfiber cloth) to both rotate in a circle and at the same time the pad oscillates in an eccentric pattern inside this larger circular rotating pattern of the polisher. Unlike the old style rotary buffers which you definitely do not want to use on a boat, orbital polishers are much safer and won't instill swirls or burn-through gel coat simply because of the slower speed of the rotating action as well as the buffering-effect the oscillating action provides. If you step up to a more expensive orbital polisher (which I think is over kill) there is a clutch which stops the pad from rotating if too much pressure is applied while performing the polishing. With the dual actions, you basically pay for this clutch that the more expensive orbital polishers have. This clutch in the DA's and the more expensive orbital polishers make both safe to use because the clutch should stop the action when too much pressure is applied to the surface. Both the $20 orbital polisher as well as an expensive dual action polishers oscillate rather than rotate so it will be pretty difficult to eat through the gel coat with either machine - it's just with the higher power of a DA, I don't want to take the chance because remember - and here is the caveat - what is safe on a auto finish may or may not be as safe with a gel coat finish depending upon how careful you are. What if that clutch doesn't engage before the gel coat is damaged? I do not want to take that chance, that is why I use the cheaper orbital polisher. That is my concern. A DA is great for a car finish as well as a gel coat if you don't slip up and the clutch works as intended. Personally, I'd rather have the slower speed of the orbital polisher when working on my gel coat. I simply prefer the cheaper product because it does oscillate at a slower (but highly effective) speed and the $20 model does not need a clutch because it moves at such a slow speed no damage will be caused. The DA's with a clutch will stop you also, hopefully, before you have burned through the gel coat. Once you learn what that "tolerance" is when working on gel coat, you are fine with a DA. The over-riding consideration of both effective products is your personal risk aversity when considering the difference between the hard surface of a car versus a soft gel coat surface of a boat. For me, the $20 orbital polisher has served me well and the proof is in the appearance of my boat.

 

[DoubleThrust]

Yes... DA is almost impossible to harm surfaces with. Rotary, very easy to do harm if not extremely careful.

 

[jdonalds]

@fairpilot, I'd think twice on wet sanding. I did my boat today and the areas I sanded still have a dull look to them. I used polishing compound and waxed afterwards, but I can still tell it doesn't look like it did before sanding. Maybe I needed to compound it a little longer than I did. This was my first crack at it and first with using a a DA polisher. I'll keep polishing and waxing it to see if the showroom shine will come back. I should have just went with a polishing or rubbing compound, if the polishing wasn't doing the job to get the scratches and fender/dock rash taken care of. I still have to do the port side and will try other options before wet sanding again.

Super fine wet sandpaper should do the job. Start with 1,000 grit, move to 2,000, then finish with 3,000. This is the sort of thing you want to take imperfections out of your gel coat but leave it with a surface that can be polished to a shine - Meguiars 3000 Grit Sand Paper or 3M 03064 Trizact 3-2/3" x 9" 3000 Grit Performance Sandpaper. The 3,000 grit will leave the finish in a state ready for polishing.

 

[Steelerville]

Not to be smartass but I call someone, much cheaper and faster.

 

[pagekl]

Super fine wet sandpaper should do the job. Start with 1,000 grit, move to 2,000, then finish with 3,000. This is the sort of thing you want to take imperfections out of your gel coat but leave it with a surface that can be polished to a shine - Meguiars 3000 Grit Sand Paper or 3M 03064 Trizact 3-2/3" x 9" 3000 Grit Performance Sandpaper. The 3,000 grit will leave the finish in a state ready for polishing.

I started off with 1500 grit and finished with 2000 grit. Never considered going as far a 3000 grit. Anyway, I compounded and buffed some more and managed to get it where you can't tell where I sanded. It looks good for an amateur like myself. I purchased a Shurhold DA polisher and it did a pretty good job. I watched a few YouTube videos and read up on on the process, and from looking at the videos, you'd assume the whole process was quick. Not the case. A little more involved and it was why I could still see the sanded areas on the boat after compounding and polishing.

 

[Woodchuck]

I tried some 3m Restorer and Wax I got from @Jim Robeson by hand and the small space I did cleaned up pretty well. I have the Porter Cable on it's way but what about getting around the handles and fittings like in my picture?

 

[Gmmastertech1]

Being in the automotive industry and great friends with our body shop, it is hard to beat a PC 7424XP. This is my 3rd LS2000. I bought it because the hull was in good condition, but very dull. This is a pic before: And this is after using 3M super duty rubbing compound on a Lake Country orange pad, followed up by 3M Finesse-it on a Lake Country white pad, and finished with 3M marine wax on a Lake Country black pad. The entire boat looks brand new now and people are amazed when they see it. I am just like @OCMD was with his. You can eat out of the engine compartment. He'd be proud! Lol

 

[Murf'n'surf]

You'll have to hand buff hard to get areas like that.

To remove the rust from around the handle use some FSR gelcoat stain remover or some Sno-Bowl toilet cleaner.

 

[MikeyL]

Lots of excellent advice here from many contributing members.
Please know the Porter-Cable 7424XP has almost become the de facto standard.
It is EASY to use PROPERLY.
One of the key issues (and {secrets") is selecting the correct PADS to use.
There are many to choose from, and using the correct type(s) is essential to pleasing results.
There are also many on-line retailers who are happy to insure you chose, order and receive the right ones for the task at hand.
Good Luck and best Wishes, Mikey
PS - My comments come from someone who "has been there" and learned by doing, and asking, and trying, and re-asking.
The Porter Cable unit comes HIGHLY recommended !
$119 shipped (new) from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...pebp=1434423565405&perid=D0B0FDF4B317486C96CA