Carling Rocker Switch Installation

[VONCE]

I finally started the winter projects. I got my dashboard pulled out. My plan is to do some re-wiring and re-locating of circuit breakers in order to squeeze some additional switches between the switches already in my dash. My plan is to get all new switches and actuator covers that illuminate at night. I'm going to put the stereo on a switch, and add some additional switches for LEDs, the two ballasts I plan on installing, and some other accessories.

Has anyone ever cut a hole to install a rectangular Carling rocker switch? I'm trying to determine the best approach to this. Even with the old switches out of the way, I'm not going to have a lot of room for error. Is a dremel with a cut off wheel my best bet? Jigsaw? None of the above?

Edit: I added the pictures to this first post. I'm really happy with how they turned out. If anyone has any questions about the switches, wiring, etc. feel free to ask. I'll help as much as I can!

 

[Andy S]

I made a thin wood template, taped the template in place and used my dremel tool with a multi-purpose cutting bit #561 to cut addition switch mounting holes. I like using the cutting bit over the cutting wheel, I could hold the dremel like a pencil giving me more control. With the bit be careful on your speed, if too fast the plastic will melt and stick to the bit. If you have a steady hand or plenty of confidence you could tape off the area to be cut out instead of making a wood template, I needed the template.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Nope never done it Like @Andy S did, I used a dremel tool to go around the perimeter and to clear out the corners. I started with 4 drilled holes in each corner to start my dremel.

 

[VONCE]

Awesome. Thanks for the help, guys. I'll have to get a bit for my dremel.

 

[Mainah]

An oscillating tool with proper blade may work well too.

 

[d_coyne1984]

Nope never done it Like @Andy S did, I used a dremel tool to go around the perimeter and to clear out the corners. I started with 4 drilled holes in each corner to start my dremel.

Where did you purchase your ballast switches?

 

[jcyamaharider]

https://www.wakemakers.com/wakeboard-ballast-electrical

 

[VONCE]

I added pictures to the first post. I ended up using an oscillating tool with a saw attachment. I had to go find a narrow width saw blade, but it worked great. It was easy to control (a rotozip or dremel with a drill tip might have gotten out of control). I used a file to clean up the edges or make minor modifications to make the switches fit. But everything ended up turning out the way I wanted it! There's a hole leftover all the way to the right from an old circuit breaker. There isn't enough room for another switch. I put a flashing LED in the hole. It turns on and flashes when the ignition is turned off.

 

[haknslash]

I need to replace some of my rocker switches as well (bilge and blower switches). Functionally they still work but the light for them has stopped working. This happened not even a full season with a new boat.

 

[VONCE]

On a brand new boat!? I don't believe it... Plus I bet with a new boat, they are using the LED switches (I could be wrong) which have a very long lifespan. And I'd imagine Yamaha is still using Carling switches, it's pretty much a marine standard. Long story short, I doubt it's your switch. You've got a loose wire or something - if the accessory is still working when the switch is on, the ground wire is at fault.

 

[haknslash]

Yes on a new boat and I'm pretty sure it's the switch. I've previously removed the panel to inspect the switches and shook the wires like crazy to see if it was a loose wiring connection somewhere but no light would come on or even flicker. However if I tapped or knocked on the switches very hard I could sometimes get the light to flicker or even briefly come on, so that makes me think it's something internal like bad solder or connection. I don't think they are LED though because they are not instant on/off when lit and they seem to have the glow of regular incandescent bulbs.

 

[d_coyne1984]

I added pictures to the first post. I ended up using an oscillating tool with a saw attachment. I had to go find a narrow width saw blade, but it worked great. It was easy to control (a rotozip or dremel with a drill tip might have gotten out of control). I used a file to clean up the edges or make minor modifications to make the switches fit. But everything ended up turning out the way I wanted it! There's a hole leftover all the way to the right from an old circuit breaker. There isn't enough room for another switch. I put a flashing LED in the hole. It turns on and flashes when the ignition is turned off.

Can you post an image or a link to the type of blade you used and had success with?

 

[VONCE]

Sure thing. I got the blade at Harbor Freight, but I'm sure you can pick one up anywhere accessories for those tools are sold. HF item number is 61810. Just look for the smallest width "Plunge Blade" they have! On fiberglass, I have had good luck (no chipping) by using saws with fine teeth. So, grab a 3/8 inch plunge blade with the finest teeth!

 

[maboat]

@vzimmer113 where did you find the illuminated No Wake switch replacement? Also, what is on the left end between the LED and the HORN? It looks like a voltmeter but also looks like it has a removable cover for maybe some sort of power outlet?

 

[haknslash]

Just went out and checked mine and they are for sure regular bulbs and not LED. I watched the bulb light up on the other switch to verify but if you look close in the image you can see the bulb sticking out. I removed the panel again and wiring is good. I think it's just something internal with my switch. I'll just replace it and certainly not going to bother warranty hassles with the dealer over it lol

 

[VONCE]

@vzimmer113 where did you find the illuminated No Wake switch replacement? Also, what is on the left end between the LED and the HORN? It looks like a voltmeter but also looks like it has a removable cover for maybe some sort of power outlet?

I got all my actuators and most of the switches from rockerswitchpros (dotcom) and newwiremarine (dotcom). I believe they are the same company. I designed it myself using their online actuator designer thing. It wasn't hard. I have a twin engine boat, but consolidated both no wake switches into one. The switch is a double pole, double throw momentary switch. I had to wire in a resistor because I was getting check engine codes. I have a post out there for that learning experience.

And that is exactly what that thing is. It uses the same footprint as the switches, but its a little volt meter with two USB ports for charging. I wanted a volt meter or battery level indicator, but didn't know where to mount it. Then I found that thing on eBay. Bingo.

The stuff through newwire/rockerswitchpros might not be the cheapest, but they do a really good job, have a great selection, have an extremely knowledgeable staff (who can help with your wiring or send you diagrams), and their customer service is awesome (they sent the wrong part, but they went above and beyond when remedying the situation). I used them for my last boat switches, too. I'd recommend them! They'd probably entertain some sort of group buy discount, or perhaps a permanent JB discount. Not sure who is in charge of the marketing or promotion for creating partnerships with this site and outside companies, but that might be a beneficial one!

 

[maboat]

I got all my actuators and most of the switches from rockerswitchpros (dotcom) I designed it myself using their online actuator designer thing. It wasn't hard.

I've been purchasing Carling switches and actuators for years but didn't know about that vendor and their online customer designer thing is great! Thanks for the info.

I have a twin engine boat, but consolidated both no wake switches into one. The switch is a double pole, double throw momentary switch. I had to wire in a resistor because I was getting check engine codes. I have a post out there for that learning experience.

I've often thought about combining the two No Wake switches but never followed through. I'll have to look for your other thread.

And that is exactly what that thing is. It uses the same footprint as the switches, but its a little volt meter with two USB ports for charging. I wanted a volt meter or battery level indicator, but didn't know where to mount it. Then I found that thing on eBay.

Got a link?

 

[VONCE]

I've been purchasing Carling switches and actuators for years but didn't know about that vendor and their online customer designer thing is great! Thanks for the info.

I've often thought about combining the two No Wake switches but never followed through. I'll have to look for your other thread.


Got a link?

If you change the no wake switch, you need a resistor. Read my thread. Let me know if you can't find it. If you're real serious about doing it, let me know because I have a few resistors left. I doubt I'm gonna do anything with them. We can work something out and I can send a few to you or something. But that requires me to find a stamp. Lol.

I don't have the link because it's been too long. It's been purged from my purchase history. I just typed in "USB voltmeter rocker" and saw a few, though. I think mine came from China.