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Clean out plugs hard to get through swim platform hole, and new guy introduction.

mrtoastyjr

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
16
Reaction score
4
Points
72
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
Hey all, new to this sight and new to boats in general. We'll sort of, my friends have a boat and they don't really like to pilot it so whenever we're out they have me take the helm, so I'm pretty comfortable behinds the wheel. I never owned a boat before, and now that my finances finally allow it I purchases a 2006 sx210. Got a smoking deal on it, basically stole it from the guy.

I boat mainly in the Chesapeake, blue marsh and raystown lakes. I see some of you run around the same areas that I do so I'll expect to see you out there.

I do have a question tho, does anybody else have trouble getting the clean out plugs out through their port holes in the swim platform deck? Mine unlock and come unseated easily (yes I did install e z locks before my first outing) but when I get them to the top of the tube I have to tilt, twist and basically wrestle them out of the hole? When I go to reinstall them, they are so hard to get through the panel that half the time I lock them by accident at the top of the tube.

Thanks for any help and here's some pics of the old girl. (That is not be in the second pic, we do have about the same amount of hair tho, lol!)

IMG_1672.JPG IMG_1673.JPG
 
I think you are referring to the fiberglass section that the upper portion of the rubber hose is attached to. If so, then sort of... you need to wiggle mine just a tiny bit to get them out. It is still easy to remove them, but there is not a lot of clearance, I would have expected more just for convenience sake.
 
They are tight. My cleanout plug tray has a bent area on one tube and a small chip on the other that make me have to twist/wiggle a bit. A new tray is $$$. The rebuild kit worked great. Sometimes the clamps on the top of the tubes to the tray can be cranked down too tight and choke down the diameter a bit too much. Do the rebuild kit and they will clear well, but it will always be pretty snug.
 
Welcome aboard! If it has been over tightened a long time, it may not help, but it is my guess the hose clamp under the clean out tray, that attaches the rubber hose to the tray hole lip, that is the clean out tube, and it is being crimped too tight. That is causing the clearance issue. Again, if it has been that way a longtime, then loosening may just make the tube loose on the lip. But it isn't held tightly when new. Try loosening it. Once again, welcome aboard!
 
Mine have very little clearance as well...always been that way.
 
I'm not sure a rebuild kit will do it for me, today I took the top half of the plugs off and not even the portion with the locks, without the seal, fit through the hole without deflecting it at least a little bit. And I just realized the last time I pulled out I must have torn the hole in the cover. IMG_1703.JPG

I think I may take that whole thing off and try to cut off the bottom 1/2" and see if it gets any better. It looks as if it flares and the bottom. The hose clamps did not seem particularly tight to me.
 
While the hose clamp doesn't appear tight, it is still pinching the diameter of your hole lip. Loosen them. If they are then too loose, maybe your idea of cutting off the lower 1/2" will help. But do verify that you have enough hose to mate onto the tube lip in the tray. While it isn't tight even when new, it is important that it does provide some water tightness, as water can and does back up the tube. That said, it can flood your bilge area under the tray. Always have the bilge pump on while in the water and check it each trip to make sure it works. Glad you have the ez locks, they have prevented many blowouts. And a blowout can damage the clean out tray and blow that hose clamp and hose off easily, but over tightening won't prevent that anyway if it blows. Like I said in the first post, your hose clamp had been over tightened more than likely, and now it is going to be too tight clearance wise even if you loosen it. But I would try loosening just in case!
 
I just removed the try and cut off the bottom of the holes, about 1/2-3/4", plugs fall right through now. It looks as though someone had been in there before because the sealant between the tube and the tray wasn't adheared at all. I still have about 1 inch of contact between the top of the tube and the tray that I plan on filling with 5200 or 4200.

On a side note what size scupper valves do these boats take? I read about them breaking so I checked mine and it has a pretty good size crack in it. While this tray is off I might as well replace it, since I'm half way there.

Thanks again guys!!
 
A really great mod, since you have to clean all the old sealant off of the clean out tray edges before you reinstall it, is to use a vinyl or rubber weatherstripping along the edge instead of a sealant. That way, you can remove the screws and get right back under it. And you will be under it again. For that reason, I would caution you not to use 5200 on anything that is not a permanent, will never change in the boats lifetime, type repairs. 4200 is a poly caulk like Lifecaulk, and is ok. But silicon is ok too. Your not really sealing it much and the factory only ran a single bead around the lip before slipping the hose over it. If you ever change anything, you will be back in there, so use a weatherstrip gasket and make your life easy! I sold My 230 before I needed to change the scupper. But others that have done that mod will reply. If not, make a post for that alone. If you search for it, you will find plenty of posts on that mod.
 
All I know for sure is guys get the stainless Atwood scupper of same diameter.
 
Had the same problem but with a little heat I was able to widen the bottom portion on mine so they come out easy. The top portion I left alone. Once the bottom is flared they will come out easily.
 
Ill take a tight hole over a lose hole ANY day of the week.
 
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