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Converting a garden pressure sprayer to flush engines

Geoff Cooper

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
1,124
Reaction score
1,256
Points
262
Location
Thailand
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Ok this is a cheap and very helpful idea that i have used for a very long time but after using the boat last week and when attempting to flush the engines my old container broke so i had to make a new one, Here's what i used.


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Went to the local DIY shop and brought a 5 ltr Garden sprayer pipe valve and connectors 270 Baht in Thailand not sure of the exchange rate you do the sums .

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Half inch plastic ball valve a few connections to fit to the garden hose and Engine flushing connection, A couple of meters of 5/16 plastic pipe and away we go.

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Drill a hole in the adaptor to take the 5/16 pipe make sure it's away from the ball valve you don't want to drill the ball valve, Just as the drill completely penetrates the plastic move the drill to get an angle on the hole so the plastic pipe enters at an angle, Clean all plastic swarf out of the adaptor you don't want this going into the engine, Push the pipe into the hole about an inch, You want it about mid stream look into the end of the adaptor you can judge it from that, Use a 2 pck resin to glue the pipe into the hole,After it's dried you need to cut about 1 foot of plastic pipe to go into the sprayer valve, I used a tie wrap to hold it in place but don't pull it to tight you don't want to kink the pipe or you will stop the flow.

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Remove the yellow pipe from the valve and remove the grey plastic retainer.

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Depending on which sprayer you are able to get drill out the retainer so the 5/16 pipe is a snug fit.

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You see where this is going by now, The valve on the sprayer can be locked so full flow goes into the engine and also you can release the trigger so no flow at all goes, The ball valve controls the amount of water you let into your engine so you can start by closing the water and just allowing the flushing liquid in or make an even balance thats up to you.

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The other end of the plastic pipe goes into the container make sure it goes to the bottom of the tank and also make sure you replace the rubber O ring so it seals correctly, I didn't have to drill this as the hole was already the correct size, When it's all in place glue the pipe to the connector using 2 pack same as before,

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I used a Tie wrap to hold the pipe steady don't pull to tight you don't want to resrict the flow

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Ok your ready to go and have complete control on the flow from the hose and from the container, Don't forget to put some pressure in the container and with the clear plastic pipe you can see the amount of flow you have, Hope it's useful to you and not a big job 30 minutes apart from waiting for the glue to dry overnight.
 
@Geoff Cooper ... perhaps a silly question ... with this “new” method do you still run the engines during the flush procedure or is the limited volume (5 liters) low/limited enough so that water will not back-up into the non-running engine(s)?

Great post and ingenuity btw!
 
You can check the flow rate by putting pressure in the container and without connecting to the boat or turning the water on just squirt a small amount onto the floor, Just flush the same as normal when your happy with the flow you can fully adjust both water and fluid, You cant put to much pressure in the tank as it has a safety valve and just releases excess pressure, I have used this for ages but last week my old container just cracked and the fluid went all over the floor, The problem with living in Thailand the sunshine kills any plastic after a while, Good luck.
 
Mr. Wizzard is at it again
 
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