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Darned Tow Hitches... What's Your Favorite, Anyway

swatski

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
Messages
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18,572
Points
822
Location
North Caldwell, NJ
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Like most here I 'm sure over the years I have accumulated a random collection.
A part here, lol (starting my spring cleanup)
upload_2018-5-3_10-24-44.png

Of course - none of those, or the other two, fit the new tow rig perfectly for the height... so annoying. I'm really into leveling the trailers, so I need to have it just right or I will be freaking out.

I'm trowing in the towel and buying one of them - adjustable Weigh Safe gizmos with a scale, a whistle, and a painted cock and balls, lol.
Just looked at it - $300???? Are you serious...?

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Yeah, those things are money. Surpised you can't find the right fit with that collection though, even turning upside down?
 
Yeah, those things are money. Surpised you can't find the right fit with that collection though, even turning upside down?
Crazy, huh? But I sent a couple of hours last night flipping those things around every other way, and no cigar.
I must admit, I am a bit anal there. So - yes, with the 1-1.5" drop the car does loaded w/the boat attached I can come to within about an 1.5" with one or two of those, which is fine for my local tows. But for some longer, and some slightly hairy hauls I just don't want to worry about. Darned.

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I must have lucked out - I got one for free from my father in law... the boat sits perfect on the truck.
 
@swatski impressive collection that rivals my own trove. This video is of an adjustable hitch that I have. It has come in handy when I’ve needed to switch tow vehicles. I don’t tow very far, since my boat is on a lift most of the time, but check out the specs, it might be a good addition to your collection:

 
Like you, I have an array of ball mounts, but needed a different rise to make the trailer level. I have been using a 10,000 lb rated forged mount, but dropped that on my bare foot one boating morning so figured a lighter mount would be safer for me if I want to do any skiing or wakeboarding the same day - LOL. Looked at weigh safe, a cushion mount, adjustable, etc. Finally settled on a Curt Fusion mount which is welded together, and within 1/4" of perfectly level and only $22 so figured I couldn't go wrong. This was also the shortest ball mount I could find, which does make the ride smoother.
 
I actually have that Master lock adjustable, but it is rated 5000 lbs, so I wanted something with a higher rating. I liked the extra protection it gave my tow vehicle when hitching up, as the vertical leg took the hit if I backed too close to the trailer (before I had a backup camera).
When we towed a smaller boat with a Cherokee, the extra length made for a very uncomfortable ride. That's not as noticeable with my 242 and Canyon, but the shorter mount still does make the ride a little smoother. The adjustable mount does solve the leveling problem though.
 
Perfectly level is a moving target. Your tow vehicle may move up/down with the gear and passengers you take on any different day. Unless you have an air leveling suspension.@swatski that is an impressive collection as I look around and gather up all of mine. One question, What do you use that "hay wagon" farm equipment (EUNUCH)hitch for? Do you put up much hay?;)

Mine are run of the mill Reese or UHaul hitches.
20180503_153531.jpg
 
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@zipper I agree, that "level" varies, but my truck has load leveling, and stays pretty steady. It is a new feature to me last year, and quickly has become something I would never want to be without. I no longer get high beams flashed at me during night driving, as the lights stay aimed correctly, and the steering is much better.
 
had a similar dilema today towing my trailer for the first time. 2" drop hitch on my 2wd 2014 f150, just feels like the truck is... low. I have hellwig helper springs on the rear so I had no real sag. On level ground I have to tap my jack wheel to get it to rotate free of the truck.
 
@swatski a couple of quick questions, more for my own info anyway,
why is the leveling important ?
to what level of tolerance are you trying to get it?
I am thinking that load on the truck and boat will change too frequently to be able to keep it at your desired tolerance level.


in my naive mind, it is like cutting sushi on the one side with Japanese knife and the using a screw driver for the other side.
 
within 1/4" of perfectly level and only $22 so figured I couldn't go wrong. This was also the shortest ball mount I could find, which does make the ride smoother.
the extra length made for a very uncomfortable ride.
I agree, and feel this is a frequently overlooked aspect of towing - the closer the ball is to the rear axle the better towing capacity - as the (tongue) weight needs to pivot over shorter vs longer arm (where the rear axle is basically a fulcrum).

For example, I have heard people ask why does VW Toureg have higher towing capacity - as compared to Q7 - w/ the same engines! - the Q7 has the 3rd row seats and is longer in the back.

Long ball hitches can be good in some situations such as launching on a shallow ramp, but terrible if towing close to capacity.

Perfectly level is a moving target. Your tow vehicle may move up/down with the gear and passengers you take on any different day. Unless you have an air leveling suspension
Very true! It is a moving target.

I decided it is finally time to splurge on a nicely adjustable hitch!
I figured I will need it anyway as I will be switching the trailer wheels to 15" at some point, etc.

I am a bit lukewarm on the adjustable suspension. It is great and for example the one in Audi and the one in GC are crazy nice, but those still level the car/truck not the trailer, etc. And - these systems can be a bit finicky...
While we seriously considered a Sequoia (platinum trim has the adjustable rear suspension) or Lexus 570, I generally feel most comfortable without it, actually. With the Toyota(Land cruiser) my squatting with the AR240 is minimal at about 1- maybe 1 and 1/4" and I really like the feel of the trailer behind that truck, at least after the first couple of tows.

I no longer get high beams flashed at me during night driving, as the lights stay aimed correctly
That is another important issue, self leveling lights can really be a blessing, wish more trucks came with it the US.

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Level trailers will track better, and in the case of dual axles it equalizes loads on the axles. Too high can lead to sway, while too low can track poorly and load the front axle too much.
This is far from an exact science. +/- 1" is often quoted by trailer manufacturers .

I check the height with a "typical" load on the tow vehicle, keeping in mind I'd rather be slightly low. My current truck has load leveling, so the height is relatively constant now.

This is all based on level ground and non moving conditions. The
 
@swatski a couple of quick questions, more for my own info anyway,
why is the leveling important ?
to what level of tolerance are you trying to get it?
The trailer axles can self-level, but it is marginal, so the more you can level it the better - equal wight distribution on the axles/tire etc. Hugely important - if you consider the tires on those trailer operate on the margins of safety anyway.

I am thinking that load on the truck and boat will change too frequently to be able to keep it at your desired tolerance level.
Still, it can be done. I am a bit compulsive, and typically run around the rig and I check the leveling (sometimes with a measuring tape, lol). I have a bit of a system, and I swear I can feel the difference when the trailer is leveled, particularly with the dual axles.

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Level trailers will track better, and in the case of dual axles it equalizes loads on the axles. Too high can lead to sway, while too low can track poorly and load the front axle too much.
This is far from an exact science. +/- 1" is often quoted by trailer manufacturers .

I check the height with a "typical" load on the tow vehicle, keeping in mind I'd rather be slightly low. My current truck has load leveling, so the height is relatively constant now.

This is all based on level ground and non moving conditions. The
Great info! @Betik - put your sushi knife down and read this! ^^^^
 
@swatski - I do agree the leveling systems can be finicky! If you feel comfortable with the way your vehicle tows, then that is what matters! No need to feel frazzled getting to the ramp!
 
Still, it can be done. I am a bit compulsive, and typically run around the rig and I check the leveling (sometimes with a measuring tape, lol). I have a bit of a system, and I swear I can feel the difference when the trailer is leveled, particularly with the dual axles.

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What’s the best method for checking? Can’t just lay a level across either of the side rails and look at the bubble? Tks!
 
What’s the best method for checking? Can’t just lay a level across either of the side rails and look at the bubble? Tks!
The level would work, but it is very hard to say if you are on a slight slope with the whole rig/combo - I find just measuring the distance from the ground to the trailer frame at several points on the trailer (I use bottom of the frame as reference) to be easier, overall. There are several caveats of course like uneven terrain, but if you do it at several points - for example at gas station stops along a trip etc. - one can get a sense of where things are.

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this is the one i use and i love it https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3462--4-rapid-hitch-178x2-combo-ball.aspx $190.00
they have a few more now since i bought mine that are a little more expensive https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/4-rapid-hitch.aspx
Learned a lesson the hard way with my Anderson hitch. You guys stee probably going to say, "well duh!"... but cut me some slack, it was my first adjustable hitch and my first aluminum hitch.

I do a significant amount of towing, some weeks daily, between the boat and my work trailer (20ft box trailer). The box trailer has a 2-5/16 ball and the boat a 2" so the adjustability and the 2 sizes proved ideal. So ideal I thinkin the 3-4 years I had it I never removed it from the reciever. It was all good and well until one spring morning 2 years ago. The morning I went to pick up my new boat in fact. When the time came to hook it up I was required to flip the ball... shouldn't be a problem... wrong!

You see, the hitch is somewhat expensive and in an effort to protect my investment I purchased a set of locking pins (steel locking pins). After a winter full of driving on wet salty roads with the 2-5/16 ball the steel pins had welded themselves solid inside the hitch thru a process called "galvanic corrosion". Thor's hammer couldn't get the pins out...

There was no way, after all the anticipation, I was going to leave my new boat at the dealer another day... so we had my brother-in-law drive my wife's Tundra to the dealer just to get the thing home. :sorry:

Moral of the story, use a generous amount of anti-seize on those pins, or you'll be making scrap metal out of that expensive hitch. :banghead:

20160319_125159.jpg
 
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