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DIY GPS Speed Control Project

Did you consider PerfectPass - there is specific model for twin yamis. It is more expensive but can be occasionally found for way under 1k, and it’s proven to work very well in Yamahas with mechanical throttles.


Yes perfect pass would be the way to go unless you want to spend forever building mounts and optimizing servos when it has already been done.
 
Did you consider PerfectPass - there is specific model for twin yamis. It is more expensive but can be occasionally found for way under 1k, and it’s proven to work very well in Yamahas with mechanical throttles.

I’ve looked at PP but can’t find it less than $1k.
 
I logged in for the first time in 1.5 years to agree that PerfectPass for $1k vs. partial components for $400 is a no brainer. Unless you're interested for the challenge of figuring it out.
 
WOW! What a strange turn in dialog! Having just read through five pages of thread digressing alternatives to Perfect Pass, now you say don’t waste my time and get a Perfect Pass. I’m confused... The only retail PP I could find was their website. $1249 for mechanical Yamaha twins. That’s just a lot of money for a lower cost solution of what I previously described.
 
WOW! What a strange turn in dialog! Having just read through five pages of thread digressing alternatives to Perfect Pass, now you say don’t waste my time and get a Perfect Pass. I’m confused... The only retail PP I could find was their website. $1249 for mechanical Yamaha twins. That’s just a lot of money for a lower cost solution of what I previously described.

Sorry perhaps we are just both sour on trying this and nothing against you. I do hope someone can figure out a cost effective (time and money) DIY solution. Doing this with a programmable controller and servo or stepper motors is absolutely possible. I think we have firmly determined trying to automate the 200 rpm up down "cruise assist" just won't be smooth. For the APS boats outputting voltages is another option. Your option is something neither of us explored. The pull weight of what you are describing seems plenty to me. Building a mount and controlling both together will be a bit finicky but of course can be done. My concern is the same as what we found with the cruise assist method in that there will be large speed variation. $400 and a bunch of time is only to have something not work is not trivial. If you can afford to possibly burn $400 and a bunch of time then I say go for it. I think we are honestly just trying to save you time and money based on our experience. It may work first try and we will be the first ones congratulate you on an innovative idea and job well done.
 
WOW! What a strange turn in dialog! Having just read through five pages of thread digressing alternatives to Perfect Pass, now you say don’t waste my time and get a Perfect Pass. I’m confused... The only retail PP I could find was their website. $1249 for mechanical Yamaha twins. That’s just a lot of money for a lower cost solution of what I previously described.
For the money Perfect Pass is an incredible investment for those of us that A.) do not want to mess with or B.) Do not have the knowledge to do so. If you think you can build a better system for less money then that I say go for it, but if you just want a system that works for the older boats buy perfect pass.
 
All I was saying is investing $400 in a module that may require a bunch more components to make it work starts sounding less and less compelling when an already tried and proven system works off the shelf for around 1k.

I was going at this trying to spend less than $50 on an arduino and GPS module. My purpose was to get a cheap cruise control system to enjoy my boat more. I found that jacking with a project while at the lake was not fun, and sort of defeated the purpose of going to the lake in the first place. So in my opinion, if your purpose is tackling a fun project for the challenge of it then go for it. If your purpose is trying to get a cheaper cruise control, maybe spending a bit more getting an off the shelf solution is actually the better choice. Just my $.02.
 
Guys, I've read through your ideas and none seem applicable to my dilemma since y'all have electronic controlled throttle but maybe you could offer some direction/advice. I have a 2005 SR230/twin MR1's with mechanical throttle. I've been looking hard at an automotive cruise control module/actuator that receives pulse input (adjustable) 2k-40k ppm, sine or square wave, controlled by a GPS speed sensor with adjustable output of the same range, and has sensitivity and PID adjustments. The cruise control module can be set and adjusted via a dash-mount control switch (on-set-up/down). The cost of these components is around $400. I'd use a single module tied to twin cables. The module has a 35lb pull with a magnetic safety release so if you pull back on the throttle, the module deenergizes. This seems like a win on a mechanical throttle system but now your thread has me in doubt.

I’ve thought about a similar setup with my twin MR1 setup. Throttles are mechanically controlled, not fly by wire, so the majority of this thread wasn’t applicable although it was interesting to read.

Thought about using a universal car cruise control system linked to a GPS input, but wasn’t sure how to mechanically link twin engines to the same module. Using two separate modules (one for each engine) would likely result in the engines rapidly getting out of sync with each other. Would probably result in a situation with one engine running at 6k while the other is turning 10k RPMs, or something similar. So using one module to control both engines seems like the way to go.
 
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