• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

DIY Steering Cable Luber

KXCam22

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
1,084
Reaction score
908
Points
272
Location
Kamloops BC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
steering cable luber 131639.jpg steering cable luber 131640.jpg steering cable luber 131641.jpg steering cable luber 131642.jpg

I finally got around to lubing my steering cables. This is a setup I have used on many rusted e-brake cables with excellent results. Same principle as a cable luber for a motorcycle. The lubes is made from:

-3' of 1/2" ID heater hose
-1ea 1/2" threaded valve stem (like a tire). The idea is to be able to thread into the hose.
- 3ea 5/8" hose clamps and
- 1ea 1/2" hose clamp.
- some synthetic motor or gear oil.

The idea is to attach the hose over the steering cable with the clamps, fill the hose with synthetic oil, thread in the valve stem, secure it with a clamp and then pressurize with a bicycle pump. The pressure forces the oil through the cable casing to lube the cable. I put a large rag at the cable exit under the helm to catch any oil that comes out the other end. I had trouble with the oil getting forces out the rubber flex fitting so had to put the small hose clamp on it. I left it on to keep water out of the cable. Cam.
 
Last edited:
How often should this be done?
 
I use about 18 inches of clear plastic hose from Home Depot so I can monitor the lubricant being forced into the cable sheath.
 
Love it!
Need to do this badly but i just keep spraying wd40 and going back and forth on the throttles till it frees up a bit.

Edit: i had done this on the exciter but with 10' hose and hung it high and let the oil seep through.
 
Last edited:
The clear tubing would be better, 1/2" ID is the magic number. Typically I lube until oil comes out the other end. In this application you tell can the oil is gone when air starts to leak out the flex fitting. Beware with WD40 as it is a penetrant but not really a lubricant. Any synth oil, teflon, grapite type stuff will work. I used redline MTL gear lube. I filled the hose up a couple of times but did not actually get oil coming out at the helm due to lack of time. I use air pressure (pump) but gravity works fine, just slower. I was tempted to use a compressor but I think I would just cause a mess. I would think this should be done every 3-4 seasons. Cam.
 
Just bought the parts. How much oil do you put in the tube? Seems like it wouldn't take much.
 
Sorry, not scientific I just filled my hose up. It all went in with no oil making it all the way to the helm outlet (and not much leaking). Cam.
 
What are the recommended intervals for lubing the cables?
 
I don't think there is a recommended interval. But the cable will ingest water slowly and then eventually rust and stick. Seem like doing it every 100 hours might be a good idea. For me that 2 seasons. Cam.
 
Hmmm...never done it to my 2008 and don't think I have a problem but I am going to do it this weekend.
 
View attachment 38953 View attachment 38954 View attachment 38955 View attachment 38956

I finally got around to lubing my steering cables. This is a setup I have used on many rusted e-brake cables with excellent results. Same principle as a cable luber for a motorcycle. The lubes is made from:

-3' of 1/2" ID heater hose
-1ea 1/2" threaded valve stem (like a tire). The idea is to be able to thread into the hose.
- 3ea 5/8" hose clamps and
- 1ea 1/2" hose clamp.
- some synthetic motor or gear oil.

The idea is to attach the hose over the steering cable with the clamps, fill the hose with synthetic oil, thread in the valve stem, secure it with a clamp and then pressurize with a bicycle pump. The pressure forces the oil through the cable casing to lube the cable. I put a large rag at the cable exit under the helm to catch any oil that comes out the other end. I had trouble with the oil getting forces out the rubber flex fitting so had to put the small hose clamp on it. I left it on to keep water out of the cable. Cam.
Where did you find the 1/2 " threaded valve stem. I have looked around and have been unable to find one.
 
the tank valve worked perfect for me. amazon sells in a pack of 2 for under 8.00
 
Just a thought (I haven't done this yet): if you use gravity, if you put the hose at the same level as the exit side, it should not leak out that side (or not much). Oil will seek its own level and not go higher than the end of the cable.
 
Gravity is really slow (really really slow). Cam.
 
No argument there. But if you are putting your boat up for the winter and attach the thingy and some oil and let it sit for the 2-3 months you were going to let it sit anyway...

Like I said, just a thought. Perhaps a slow thought... But that is how I think (slow). :)
 
May be an idea to connect the pipe from the helm saves any oil coming out onto the wiring harness, Just a thought! I do mine about every 3 months only takes about 30 minutes and you can drive with 1 finger.

IMG_20160714_113359.jpg
IMG_20160714_114923_1.jpg

IMG_20160714_121320.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5252.JPG
    IMG_5252.JPG
    100.7 KB · Views: 30
here is what i used... you can apply a little pressure with a foot pump

Screen Shot 2017-05-10 at 5.49.56 PM.png
 
i boat in fresh water only and this has improved my steering stiffness tremendously. I really did not know my steering was stiff till after i applied the oil
 
Back
Top