Dock Question: Getting power to the dock

[cane.mba]

Your GFCI at the house in GA is wired to a 15 amp breaker. So you are starting off with a power feed of only 15 amps. The distance you want to run will probaly not work on that size breaker. You can't put a 20 amp breaker on a GFCI. I would put a seperate run to the dock, or as close as the Corp. will alow, with 30 amp breaker and put the GFCI at the end of the run. you can also get a GFCI breaker for the end of the run.
The twist lock cord end is for safety. Keep it.

Ok, now I'm worried, I checked the panels and my GFI circuits all have 20a breakers.... Going to double check.

Last night at Lowes I did find standard extension cord plugs that had a twisting waterproof connector. I think that may be my best option since the existing plug is a locking connector, but doesn't have a waterproof enclosure.

***Edit / Update***

The GFI circuits are 20a. I have 15a Arc Fault breakers too, but those are for the bedrooms.

 

[Bruce]

I would place the GFCI breaker near the dock. It could get annoying going back to the house to reset the GFCI every time it trips.

Do you need to comply with local code? Our electric company who owns the lake bed has gotten really strict about code compliance recently.

Using extension cords may be a way to avoid involving an electrician.

The number of amps that the lift will draw is a big factor in the size of extension cord needed.

Even with 10/2 you you will be limited to 10 amps (1200 watts) at 250 feet. I have a similar length of 12/3 to the gate on my driveway. I used 12/3 and paralleled two conductors for the hot. Using 10/3 you could either parallel the hot or run two 10 amp circuits sharing the neutral and ground. You will need to install a breaker in the line somewhere to limit it to 10 amps.

 

[txav8r]

I agree with @Bruce , you want to convert ALL of your lights to LED. And for the most part, the bulbs will get little use when you install some strip lighting or accent lights, also LED. Use solar where you can, such as the path from the house to the dock. You will reduce the demand on your service at the dock to a fraction of the current load as far as the lights go. Then your real question will be the lift and charging your batteries back up. So figure out what your lift amperage is, and supply for that. The battery charger will be nominal comparatively speaking. A long term solution would be Bruce's idea of setting up a solar bank for storage and recovery with the battery bank as your accumulator. But I suspect that the cost to do this will exceed your cord, gfci, and additional expense to make sure your providing a 20-30amp circuit to the dock. If it were me, I would add a 30a breaker in my panel, and a dedicated service to the furthest reach I could, and then put the extension from there. Mike, in time, you may want to improve the service to the dock by adding more permanent service as was suggested on either side of the easement. I would also petition the power company on a weekly or quarterly basis to grant an easement for your tiny service conduit across their easement. I did this in the past and was granted one by the utility and city, but they required some protections which were stupid, but easily accomplished.

 

[cane.mba]

At this point I just really want to run lights and battery charger for the boat. Next year I am hoping to install a solar solution to power lights, charger, music and my own installation of @Julian 's Air dock. I will probably increase the solar capacity by 50% to cover for cloudy days or decreased peak sunlight due to shade, thunderstorms! etc.

This really is a temporary solution for this season, so I'd like to get it done as inexpensively as possible with parts that can be recycled or reused for other purposes in the future.

 

[Bruce]

If you just want to run the lights and battery charger then go get 250' 12/2 extension cord which will handle 5 amps (600 watts). Plug the extension cord into the existing GFCI outlet on your home. That should be less than $200. Then make sure that your lights are not using more than 400 watts combined. Using LED or CFL bulbs should do this. This leaves some overhead for running the charger and keeping the extension cord cool.

 

[Jim Robeson]

I have dealt with the Corp considerably since my dock is also on a Corp lake. In my case, I had no power and was using a generator which is perfectly legal since I did not add anything to the original dock plans. Since then I want to add solar to my dock and in order for me to do that I have to have permission, submit a set of certified plans, and have the work signed off by a certified electrician. Also, in my case, if I had wanted to add power from the house I would have had to do the same thing with that as well. Plus, pay for the privilege every 5 years. Solar will only cost you the one time fee of getting the work done and you will all the power you need. That is only assuming that you Corp of Engineers are reading from the same book as ours do.

 

[cane.mba]

I agree with @Bruce , you want to convert ALL of your lights to LED. And for the most part, the bulbs will get little use when you install some strip lighting or accent lights, also LED. Use solar where you can, such as the path from the house to the dock. You will reduce the demand on your service at the dock to a fraction of the current load as far as the lights go. Then your real question will be the lift and charging your batteries back up. So figure out what your lift amperage is, and supply for that. The battery charger will be nominal comparatively speaking. A long term solution would be Bruce's idea of setting up a solar bank for storage and recovery with the battery bank as your accumulator. But I suspect that the cost to do this will exceed your cord, gfci, and additional expense to make sure your providing a 20-30amp circuit to the dock. If it were me, I would add a 30a breaker in my panel, and a dedicated service to the furthest reach I could, and then put the extension from there. Mike, in time, you may want to improve the service to the dock by adding more permanent service as was suggested on either side of the easement. I would also petition the power company on a weekly or quarterly basis to grant an easement for your tiny service conduit across their easement. I did this in the past and was granted one by the utility and city, but they required some protections which were stupid, but easily accomplished.

I am actually in the process of switching all my house lighting to LEDs, I am a huge proponent of LED lighting. I also really want a solar solution for several reasons. First the Corps doesn't regulate solar power on docks, nor do they require permits to be renewed every 5 years. Plus I'm very intrigued by Green Energy solutions for home or other uses (it'll be a very long time until I give up gas powered vehicles so I need to offset my carbon footprint!). Plus if. I ever have to sell my home, or dock Solar will make both more attractive. Additionally I originally got two quotes to have power ran to the dock and the least expensive was almost $3k. I can do a solar package for 1/2 that price and still install LED lighting. So in my situation Solar is a win, win, win.

My challenge is with my wife starting her own private practice (I am apparently her Angel Investor) and two boys now in private school I have limited funds until hopefully next year once her practice is established.

As far as the lift I think the Airdock is the right choice for my situation. It can be powered right from the boat's batteries, and looking forward to future droughts, I like that it can be removed and stored. So from a lift perspective I think it's perfect for a lot of reasons.

 

[cane.mba]

I have dealt with the Corp considerably since my dock is also on a Corp lake. In my case, I had no power and was using a generator which is perfectly legal since I did not add anything to the original dock plans. Since then I want to add solar to my dock and in order for me to do that I have to have permission, submit a set of certified plans, and have the work signed off by a certified electrician. Also, in my case, if I had wanted to add power from the house I would have had to do the same thing with that as well. Plus, pay for the privilege every 5 years. Solar will only cost you the one time fee of getting the work done and you will all the power you need. That is only assuming that you Corp of Engineers are reading from the same book as ours do.

Jim,

My Ranger was the one who suggested Solar as a viable option. Sounds like he was reading the same CoE play book, permission and certification, but no permit fee every five years. I got the impression they are trying to push people in that direction as well.

 

[cane.mba]

I wanted to take a monument and thank everyone that has responded so far. I really do value your advice, knowledge, experience and opinions.

 

[Jim Robeson]

@cane.mba ... your assumption is correct, they are pushing folks that way. As a matter of fact they are not allowing anymore power line, electrical permits on our lake. Not sure but it may be because of the deaths on Lake of the Ozarks due to faulty electrical lines in the water.

 

[txav8r]

@cane.mba , Mike, be sure and update this thread when you do set it up solar. There are always more than one way to skin a cat. So the more guys that do these projects, the more that are exposed to newer and emerging ways to get it done. I will enjoy the journey with you!

 

[cane.mba]

Mel, I'll be sure to provide a full pictorial and step-by-step write up... It'll be a huge learning curve for me, so I'd like to help others flatten that curve!

 

[cane.mba]

@cane.mba ... your assumption is correct, they are pushing folks that way. As a matter of fact they are not allowing anymore power line, electrical permits on our lake. Not sure but it may be because of the deaths on Lake of the Ozarks due to faulty electrical lines in the water.

There was just a small child electrocuted in a neighborhood pool here in Atlanta a few weeks ago. Apparently there was a faulty ground on the pump, and when the child entered the water and touched the metal railing he collapsed. Thankfully aware adults were near-by and I think the child is ok.

 

[Jim Robeson]

@cane.mba ... one more thing, my understanding is you can do just about anything as long as you don't alter the original dock plans. For example: if you want to make something that is portable and isn't permanently fixed to your dock you don't have to have their permission or submit plans. If you do decide on solar and make it permanent, you will still have to submit plans. You may not have to pay for a permit but it will have to approved.

 

[Bruce]

It'll be a huge learning curve for me, so I'd like to help others flatten that curve!

I have built several DC power systems for servers and remote towers that contain similar elements to your dock power supply. Please feel free to ask questions when you start planning. This is a similar 24 volt DC project. The primary difference is that I am using AC to supply the charger and my output is 24 volt regulated DC. Swapping out the 24 Volt charger for solar panels and the 24V DC to DC power supply to an inverter would provide 120V AC to your dock. I have three 8 volt golf cart batteries in this setup. It would be less expensive to use two 6 volt golf cart batteries in a 12V configuration. I needed 24V for the tower mounted radios. @justason, you will like this.