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Engine Anode Replacement - Tips/Tricks?

VitaminSea

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Year
2012
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SX
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21
Hello Braintrust - In my waverunner, I am replacing the engine anode and I am having one heck of a time, so I am reaching out for some tips. I have purchased the replacement kit (Anode Cover, Gasket & Anode) as pictured below. I share this, as I am indifferent to how the existing anode cover looks post the removal (as I have already put quite a few gouges in it from my pliers).

1709813391641.jpeg

My waverunner has the 1.8L motor for reference. I was able to remove the bolt that holds the assembly in place on the side of the engine block - that in of its self was a pain due to the tight clearance, and minimal range of motion for any type of wrench. So open to suggestions here for when it’s time to reassemble if there’s a more favorable tool here than a 12MM box wrench (my ratcheting wrench’s head was too large to fit in the area).

Now to the anode assembly, over time I have been able to work it “free” so that it can pivot/rotate clockwise/counter-clock wise a few degrees in each direction, however I have NOT been successful in removing it from the block. I have tried using different screw drivers and small pry devices to extract the assembly, but it hasn’t yielding much in the way of results (I may have been able to extract the anode assembly ~1mm from the block). I have been spraying the anode with Free All Penetrating Oil (pictured below), and I believe this is what allowed me to free the assembly so that it would rotate some (initially it was just stuck).

1709813569966.png

From looking at the assembly, I believe what’s causing it to hang up is the rubber gasket. I could totally be wrong here, but it appears swollen, as it was partially sticking out of the block (here’s a photo from when I was working the bolt out).

IMG_3656.jpeg

TL/DR - What tips/tricks can one use to extract the engine anode from the block if liberally spraying with a penetrating oil, grabbing with Channel Lock pliers, and attempting to pry have been largely unsuccessful?

Thanks in advance!
 

I_squared_r

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It will be a lot easier to remove by removing the intake manifold. Last time I did it, I cut up my hands pretty bad trying to get in there. I wasted my time, I should've removed the intake manifold from the beginning.
 

VitaminSea

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Thanks for the feedback. Never removed the manifold before. How challenging is this and are there any gaskets I would need to replace?

Even jf I went this route, any suggestions on how to extract the stubborn anode? I can get it to rotate back and forth a bit, but not away from the block.

I can see where having the manifold out of the way will make installing the retaining bolt much easier.
 

I_squared_r

Jetboaters Admiral
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Location
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Year
2019
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
Thanks for the feedback. Never removed the manifold before. How challenging is this and are there any gaskets I would need to replace?

Even jf I went this route, any suggestions on how to extract the stubborn anode? I can get it to rotate back and forth a bit, but not away from the block.

I can see where having the manifold out of the way will make installing the retaining bolt much easier.
You can pry it out with a screwdriver. Or get a pair of pliers on it to twist and pull. To remove the intake manifold it's straightforward, remove the electrical connectors, remove airbox, remove the throttle body, and then theres like 8x 10mm bolts to remove the intake manifold. It has a reusable rubber gasket.
 
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