Engine light?

[Boyd95]

2008 SX230 while ruining at wot for about 3 min today I got a over heat light. It’s the center light on the dash and limited to engine to about 6500 rpm. I checked the clean out port and there was nothing obvious in there. I ran the boat all day at 8000rprm with no issues. Any thoughts? It was the center light

 

[Boyd95]

Also water was flowing out the side ports as usual

 

[Scott griffith]

Check the thermostat

 

[buckbuck]

@Boyd95 You should have been getting 10,000 rpm at wide open throttle.
Your problem is a lack of cooling water. Typically this is caused by something being in the jet. While the boat is on the trailer take a flashlight and look through the inlet. Since yours is a 2008 it is possible, although unlikely, that your Y fitting was manufactured incorrectly from the factory. Check the easy stuff first.

 

[Boyd95]

@Boyd95 You should have been getting 10,000 rpm at wide open throttle.
Your problem is a lack of cooling water. Typically this is caused by something being in the jet. While the boat is on the trailer take a flashlight and look through the inlet. Since yours is a 2008 it is possible, although unlikely, that your Y fitting was manufactured incorrectly from the factory. Check the easy stuff first.

When I open it up it gets up to 10,200 rpm both engines no problem, I was just referencing I was cursing most of day at 8000rpm and never got a overheat light while running at those rpms. It wasn’t until I went to wot it overheated. I will definitely check inside the pump today though

 

[buckbuck]

Well those are the symptoms my boat had. Only when I beat on it would it overheat. I suggest you pull your Y fittings and look through them.

 

[Boyd95]

Well those are the symptoms my boat had. Only when I beat on it would it overheat. I suggest you pull your Y fittings and look through them.View attachment 76759 View attachment 76760

Okay thank you. Unfortunately I probably won’t be able to take a look this week. So I’m assuming I should just hollow out the hose on that engine? If I notice anything broken off. Incase that isn’t the issue is the thermostat pretty easy to change?

 

[buckbuck]

T stat is very easy to exchange.

 

[Boyd95]

T stat is very easy to exchange.

Thanks for all the help! I hope it’s a easy fix.

You may or not know the answer to this. This summer I had to get a sbt engine for my port side. It’s been running great so far. On Saturday I checked the oil and it was at a perfect level when warmed up. It was right between the low and full mark. I ran it quite a bit on Saturday and on Sunday I checked it again and there was no oil in it. It was bone dry even after running for a few minutes. No oil was in bilge either. I’ve used the boat about 4 times this year with the new engine and the oil has been fine up until now. So my quistion is. Where did all the oil go?? Could it be burning oil already? I went with the premium motor to hopefully avoid problems. It only has about 4 hours on it. I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow that did the install to see what they have to say. Luckley it still has a 2 year no fault warranty

 

[buckbuck]

I wouldn't freak out about that yet. Checking the oil level on these motors always seems to be dependent on so many variables that I rarely see it the same. It takes little oil to go from low to high so be careful. I think @scokill once posted how much it takes . Record how much it takes to get it in the normal range and then call the dealer. You may not have a problem.

 

[Boyd95]

I added about half a quart after that. It brought it right to the L mark. I didn’t want to flush it on Sunday with potentially no oil. It may not mean anything but after I added the oil and flushed it for about 5 minutes I checked the oil again and it had a couple tiny bubles in the oil. I’m thinking it could be air bubbles from adding some oil. Just hearing so many bad things about sbt is why it has me so paranoid lol

 

[scokill]

I wouldn't freak out about that yet. Checking the oil level on these motors always seems to be dependent on so many variables that I rarely see it the same. It takes little oil to go from low to high so be careful. I think @scokill once posted how much it takes . Record how much it takes to get it in the normal range and then call the dealer. You may not have a problem.

My experience is the range just above L to at the top of H, which is in the operating range is 1q. So just an eyeball estimate to go from middle of range to nothing on stick might be 1/2 q or slightly more. But checking oil to a precise level is tricky. If you were mid way on the stick warmed up and just off the dipstick on the trailer then that wouldn't surprise me. If you were half way warmed up and off the dipstick warmed up on the lake later then that would be concerning. If you are burning that amount of oil in a short period of time I would assume you could tell by the exhaust being visible and a smell.

 

[Boyd95]

My experience is the range just above L to at the top of H, which is in the operating range is 1q. So just an eyeball estimate to go from middle of range to nothing on stick might be 1/2 q or slightly more. But checking oil to a precise level is tricky. If you were mid way on the stick warmed up and just off the dipstick on the trailer then that wouldn't surprise me. If you were half way warmed up and off the dipstick warmed up on the lake later then that would be concerning. If you are burning that amount of oil in a short period of time I would assume you could tell by the exhaust being visible and a smell.

All season it’s been at the L mark when cold. And mid way between L and F while warmed up. On Saturday when I checked it it was at the normal level. Sunday it was bone dry even after running for about 5 min it was still bone dry. Would the smoke be black or white? I honestly didn’t notice any smoke or smell anything out of the ordinary. I did run it at Wot for about 2 min for the first time. Idk if that would cause the oil to burn up? I highly doubt it but just a thought

 

[Boyd95]

And I called the dealer about the oil level. I told them I checked it in the water and they said that is not the way to check the oil. They said to always check the level on the trailer. I told them I disagree with that because the boat is level when in the water and I don’t think it would make that much of a difference in the level anyways if it were on the trailer. It seems impossible to find a place near me that honestly knows what they are doing. They also want me to bring it to them for the “10 hour” service. The dealer is almost two and a half hours away from my marina. Does anyone here know if I do the maintenance my self (oil changes and spark plug changes) would it void the sbt warranty?
And when I was talking to the dealer about a scenario of the motor blowing up from running with no oil in it (dealer fully serviced the new motor when they did install) they essentially said I would be at fault because I ran it with no oil and I would not be covered under the no fault warranty. I’m like how would I be responsible if the dealer told me the motor was good to go and the oil level is good?

 

[scokill]

And I called the dealer about the oil level. I told them I checked it in the water and they said that is not the way to check the oil. They said to always check the level on the trailer. I told them I disagree with that because the boat is level when in the water and I don’t think it would make that much of a difference in the level anyways if it were on the trailer. It seems impossible to find a place near me that honestly knows what they are doing. They also want me to bring it to them for the “10 hour” service. The dealer is almost two and a half hours away from my marina. Does anyone here know if I do the maintenance my self (oil changes and spark plug changes) would it void the sbt warranty?
And when I was talking to the dealer about a scenario of the motor blowing up from running with no oil in it (dealer fully serviced the new motor when they did install) they essentially said I would be at fault because I ran it with no oil and I would not be covered under the no fault warranty. I’m like how would I be responsible if the dealer told me the motor was good to go and the oil level is good?

So what is interesting is that the current manual online for checking the oil is different than the manual that came with my boat. It does indeed say level on trailer or in water, and it also gives the instructions of measuring the oil level when engines are warmed up. It states that level on trailer should read at a minimum at the L level but below the H mark. I can tell you that if you are just below H mark level on trailer you will be over filled. I've always measured warm on water. This would be a tricky situation if they found that no oil was the cause of an engine issue. On one hand it's your responsibility to check the oil, but it is also reasonable to expect that the engine isn't using or leaking oil. I would add oil and keep an eye on it and if it goes down significantly again I would take it back to whoever installed the engine and notify SBT and ask them what you should do. If they say keep running it and it blows then they would need to take responsibility, and it's also not reasonable for an engine to use half its oil after each use. They really need to find why it's using oil. I would put pressure on the dealer to come to the lake with you and witness the oil use or for them to take it out for a day.

 

[Boyd95]

Welp.. I finnaly got around to removing the Y fitting. There were no obstructions inside. But I damaged it while removing it. Does anyone know where to buy a new Y fitting?

 

[Boyd95]

Disregard I was able to find it online