First outing with 2004 SX230, problems including oil in airbox, hard steering to right, gate cable, rpm mismatch, drain plug broke?

[jabroni1m]

First I want to thank everyone on this forum for the great information. It has helped me fix many things already on this new to me 2004 SX230. I love the boat and it is a lot of fun even after 1 time on the lake. It has a stainless scupper with replaceable flap. I am in the Dover, TN area and go out on Lake Barkley or the Cumberland River most days. Occasionally I venture over to Kentucky Lake. So here is a list of the problems I have noticed and things I have fixed already. Any advice on the things I can't figure out would be appreciated.

1. Oil in Port side airbox. This is obviously the most concerning problem. Motor seems to run fine still but obviously if I have an ECM or injector problem, that won't last long. I initially thought it was just overfilled by the previous owners marina, who had decent service records for the boat. I did a complete oil drain with the bottom plug. After pumping out oil, pulling filter and bottom plug, I turned engine over for about 5-6 seconds and more oil came out both the bottom drain and filter hole. I let this drain for about 15 minutes on each motor and then tilted front of the boat up as far as I could to drain any last oil I could. I have to assume I got it all out. I then proceeded to put the new K&N on and drain plugs with new crush washers. Put 4 quarts in each engine, which I regret. I meant to put 3.5 and then take it to the lake but somehow me and my brother both dumped to the 4 mark. After taking it out, there was more oil in the port airbox again. Starboard has none. Out on the water cold before starting it was barely on the stick, then after running 7 minutes at 7k it was above full. I then let it cool off for an hour or so and it was still above full. Later once at home on flat ground and a few hours later it is like the oil had settled somewhere and it was on the low mark again. Am I overfilled or do I have a more serious ECM or injector problem. I saw these and was wondering if anyone had tried this route, FLOW MATCHED Yamaha FX140 SX230 AR230 SR230 Waverunner Fuel Injector Set (4) | eBay I have received my YDS and will check that tonight hopefully depending on weather. I also am looking to check resistance on the injectors if I can figure out how to get to them. I have searched and found several pictures of them apart, but I can't seem to find a disassembly guide or video.


2. Port Gate cable hard to push. I read some threads on this and disassembled the throttle assembly. I removed the gate cable and the throttle freely works so the throttle cable is fine and it appears the throttle is mechanically sound. I believe the correct cable for this is Teleflex CCX63317. But I seen mention the the 18 foot for some models. Any advice before I order? While I was in there I did the electrical tape mod to keep the throttles from lowering RPM when you release. This seems to have worked great. I also made sure it was lubed good.

3. Steering. When turning starboard/right, there was a vibration in the floor. It also didn't turn near as far right it seemed. When at idle, a left turn would turn boat fairly quickly but a right turn would take over a minute to do anything really. I know this is just an adjustment issue, but they appeared lined up fairly well. Any way to measure the nozzles? Also there is 2 different nozzles, could this be the problem? I wouldn't mind going ahead and swapping the steering cables if I need to but I can't find a thread that lists the exact cables from Teleflex. The original cables from the parts book is F1C-U1470-10-00 and F0R-U1470-10-00 but I cannot verify this is correct and I can't find a length for them online.


4. Starboard RPM are lower than Port. The higher the RPM, the more difference there is. Is this the adjustment where they attach to the motor in the airbox or an adjustment on the throttle handles ? I watched a video on one of the cruise control videos about adjusting it, but it was a different model that had the throttles attached to the sidewall of the engine compartment. Mine looks completely different and am not sure which ones to adjust.

5. Drain Plug. This just doesn't look or feel right to me. It is hard to see it all in this picture but I am at work and will try to get a better picture later. The drain plug assembly appears to be installed with 4200 or 5200. I doesn't appear to have fiberglass behind it. If you grab the plug or the hole you can move the large round thing the plug goes in. I am scared to remove it to check because it isn't currently leaking. I am assuming I will have to pull it out, sand off all the silicone type stuff, use waterweld, marine tek, or something to rebuild the hull there and leave a 1/2 hole in the middle to allow a plug to go after I drill new holes for the fitting. I figure if I do this I will go ahead an put one of the aftermarket plugs that stay in when you unscrew them so I don't lose it.


There is lots more to do, but those are the most crucial at the moment to be able to enjoy some time on the water here in 3 weeks when I have a trip planned. Thanks for any advice.

Cheers!
Michael

 

[Scottintexas]

wow that's a lot of issues in one post on a new to you boat, did you know the previous owner?

1. oil - unless your oil smells like fuel I wouldn't assume an injector yet, get the level down to the L mark and check it warm on the water per Yamaha instructions and then see if it stays there, definitely monitor the oil level every hour of boating until you get it figured out,

2. port gate cable - when you disconnected the cable from the throttle did you also disconnect it from the gate ? you should disconnect both ends and see if you can move the cable and the gate separately to isolate and make sure you don't have a gate issue,
Can't confirm the cable part # for you

3. starboard nozzle/steering - are you asking if there are two sizes of nozzles or telling us you have different sizes?
Have you confirmed the nozzle is turning when the wheel is moved? I had very loose cable connections behind the helm and couldn't get any steering, it might be worth it to pull you pumps/impellers just to confirm you have the correct ones, the port and starboard impellers have different pitches

4. rpm difference - are your throttle levers just not at the same position to get the same rpm? when your throttles are full neutral what is your rpm, when you are wide open what are they?

5. drain plug - this worries me the most, if I understand you correctly, you feel like you could pull the mounting hole out of the boat if you really tried? I would pull the cleanout port cover and you will be able to get a good view of what's going on down there, we haven't ever seen that plug go bad naturally and my worst case scenario (since the scupper has been replaced also) is that a previous owner broke the hull and did a poor job fixing it, by looking from the inside you can get a better idea

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

time to upgrade to the newer cobra steering those are old style and they were never made to fit the newer style nozzle that one is mounted on haven't made that type for a long time those were the economy parts . it would be best to upgrade to a newer system. Oil in the breather means it was overfilled and it ruined the air cleaner element , so you will probably need to replace it.

 

[djetok]

5. drain plug - this worries me the most, if I understand you correctly, you feel like you could pull the mounting hole out of the boat if you really tried? I would pull the cleanout port cover and you will be able to get a good view of what's going on down there, we haven't ever seen that plug go bad naturally and my worst case scenario (since the scupper has been replaced also) is that a previous owner broke the hull and did a poor job fixing it, by looking from the inside you can get a better idea

& @jabroni1m

After its all cleaned up . Could you use a piece of starboard cut to fit on the inside as a backer to mount the drain too. you obviously would have to be pretty precise with the fit and seal it with 5200 on the inside.

Just spit balling here

 

[CrankyGypsy]

Oooph, I'm gonna come right and say it: the previous owner sucked - he/she just didn't care. mismatched nozzles; sloppy, gooped-on sealant; overfilled oil; who knows what else. You got yourself a fixer-upper - I did the same thing, but I somewhat knew what I was getting into. After my first season, I started tearing everything apart and building it back to where it should've been.

1. Why do you think the injectors have anything to do with oil spewing out? Also, you don't check oil level on a dead-cold engine - start it, let it sit a few mins, then check. If you put a bubble level on the engine, you can get it close enough to get an accurate oil reading in the driveway - I still would not try to hit the top of the max on the dipstick. I used to do full drains on mine - I don't think you can get ALL of it out, no matter what you do. I pour the old oil into an empty 5qt oil container to read how much came out and then add a little less than that and check.

3 & 4: if the nozzle is different, I'm wondering how far back from there is also not correct? A different part or cavitation could explain the RPM difference (they should be a couple hundred within each other at WOT, I think). Keep in mind, these boats have very slightly different impellers for each side - everything else should be identical.
Those are the cable numbers I used for mine - you can also use SSC21919 and SSC21918

5: If that sucker falls out on the water somehow, you're in trouble. I know it's the beginning of the season, but just remove it and see what you've got. I'd advise to start pulling up threads on FRP repair (I have a few on here) or take it somewhere. When reinstalling, use the regular 3M Marine Silicone - 4200 and 5200 are overkill. I'm thinking like @djetok - you could at least band-aid it for the season if you 5200'd a backer plate inside and used longer screws. I'm also wondering if the scupper even has a nut on the back, at this point!

 

[jabroni1m]

Thanks for the quick replies. I agree I got a fixer upper. I didn't know the person but don't mind a project. I got it for 14k so I figured a little work was going to be in order. The funny part is there are all kind of receipts he gave me for the repair work over the years. The mismatched nozzle was put on by an authorized Yamaha mechanic at a marina. The oil was changed by the same marina, fuel sender was changed, new ecm at one point.

I am going to pull a 1/2 quart out and take it out again. I don't smell any fuel and both dipsticks smell the same. Yes the cable is hard to move when disconnected from both sides. The cable has a bend in it right where it connects to the nozzle which could be causing the steering issue. I will find out when I swap the cable out. Both gates moves very easily when cables disconnected. The nozzle deflector is different but everything else looks the same on each side. There doesn't seem to be any cavitation, possibly a small amount on a full hard left turn at WOT but I think its more a vibration from the steering. I have to have the starboard throttle farther ahead to stay at the same RPM and then at both throttles fully forward the starboard RPM is about 350 rpm difference. I don't want to quote an exact idle and full speed RPM as my memory isn't that good anymore but at idle they were the same and I believe WOT was just under 10k for Port and less for 9650 to 9700 Starboard. I have 2 new air filters, waiting to put them in until I stop this oil problem. I will probably upgrade to a newer Cobra once I have confirmed this engine isn't going to go down and I can fix the steering issue. I just want to fix the must haves before the wants. I will take the bilge plug hatch off and look down there and see if the scupper has a nut on it and also try to see the damage area. The boat obviously hit something on the very bottom back, the gelcoat is gone, but doesn't look like any repair work was done. I do feel that I could stick my finger in there and pull out the whole drain fitting. Real scared to take the boat on the water because of this. Do you believe I could reach in far enough to attach a piece of starboard with 4200 or something?

 

[CrankyGypsy]

Now it sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on all this with a good plan of action.
Have you tried to properly set-up the throttle cables at the engine per the manual. Maybe you're just not getting the full throw?
You'll have to pull the starboard's water box to access the interior of the drain plug - there will be lots of room to reach at it and work on it.

 

[Scottintexas]

until you get comfortable with the oil level I wouldn't worry about rpm's, overfilled oil could be causing a problem, a 350 rpms difference I wouldn't worry about anyways,

figure out that Garboard drain plug,

Yes the cable is hard to move when disconnected from both sides. The cable has a bend in it right where it connects to the nozzle which could be causing the steering issue.

maybe a picture of the bend, this could definitely cause stiffness,


.

 

[jabroni1m]

Sorry for the very long delay. Got caught up with work and haven’t made the time to post. So an update.
1. Oil was just to high. After changing oil filter and doing a complete drain and refilling to proper level everything is good in both engines. Hooked up YDS and only recent errors are slant switch and bypass valve. Slant switch I am going to take a look at but can’t find a replacement. Anyone know a part number? Still researching what bypass valve is. All injectors fires normally when testing.

2. Replaced port gate cable. Less than $40 and only took about 30 minutes. Works perfect now.
3. Adjusted steering cables to line up nozzles better. All working well now. Did the tape mod to fix the throttles from slipping. Works great.
4. Adjusted throttles to match rpm closer. Less than 100 different now and actually sounds better when they don’t match.
5. Re-siliconed and reinforced the drain plug mount. Definitely will fix more permanently when I have a week break or over winter. Have put over 25 hours on boat and bilge rarely turns on. Not a dry bilge by any means but kicks on 3-4 times a day for 5 seconds. It’s funny how the bilge pump isn’t really in the low spot of the boat and it constantly holds 5-10 gallons of water before it is high enough to come into engine compartment.


So I have also installed second 1100 gph bilge with alarm a few inches higher. Tested and works. Has never kicked on in water still as first pump rarely runs. Good backup.
I have replaced and tightened a few random bolts for grab rails and Bimini and such.
New washable air filters.
2 batteries with acr and a third battery on board and charged not hooked up. Jump starter box next to batteries just in case. Installed second 12v but had some wiring problems. I tried to run into one 12v plug with positive, out of it into the other, out of it to ground. Didn’t work. Both work if you hook them up alone though. Guess my wiring skills aren’t as good as I thought. I also installed new clean out plug rebuild kits. Come in and out so easy now.

Still need to:

Patch scratches with spectrum
Install keel guard.
Bolt/Weld trailer winch arm.
Change winch out on trailer.
Fix drain plug permanently.
Change speakers out to higher quality.
Install some kind of soundproofing. Boat to loud.
Check/clean/replace rollover/slant switch
Install 3rd 12v and ram mount by instrument cluster.
Purchase better steering fins or wake fins and possible lateral thrusters.

Pretty long post and big update. More to come. Any suggestions?

 

[Gym]

Wow @jabroni1m Great mechanical skills. My knuckles are bleeding just reading about all the work you're doing on this boat.

With regard to steering cables. I've done those and control cables to the buckets on my 2006 SX230. I don't have the Teleflex numbers for you but you can find them easily by pulling out the throttle quadrant. They are printed right there near the ends . No need to disconnect the cables to find them. On our vintage boat the port cable is 1 foot longer which is reflected by the part number. I would ALWAYS replace cables in pairs just as replacing break pads on your car.

If your bilge pump, which sits on the engine compartment floor, is running several times in an hour you have a significant issue. Put your boat on the trailer, put 4-5 gallons of water in the engine compartment with a hose (bilge pump off). Standing on the ground at the stern of the boat look for leaks. You will likely find your problem. If not you may have a leak around the impeller shaft as that bearing needs to be greased periodically. Don't over grease this bearing as it could cause an issue.

 

[jabroni1m]

The bilge is running just 3-4 times a day. After putting boat in for the weekend it took about 4 hours before water raised enough to fill bilge and start coming into the engine compartment. Then after another hour or 2 the bilge kicked in for the first time. But I know where the water is coming in. It’s the drain plug. I can see is drop out when I pull boat out before pulling plug. Throttle cables and gate cables are smooth now.

 

[Gym]

The bilge is running just 3-4 times a day. After putting boat in for the weekend it took about 4 hours before water raised enough to fill bilge and start coming into the engine compartment. Then after another hour or 2 the bilge kicked in for the first time. But I know where the water is coming in. It’s the drain plug. I can see is drop out when I pull boat out before pulling plug. Throttle cables and gate cables are smooth now.

Ok, good to know where your water issue is coming from. Not sure if you're leaving your boat in the water or you're in and out with each use. If keeping it in a healthy battery will only last 4-5 days in a dry boat, maybe only a couple of days with your current water issue so beware.

 

[jabroni1m]

I left it overnight once but we always pull it. We live on the lake without a dock and only 1/4 mile to the ramp.

 

[Saltydog]

Wow!
I read this whole post- it's like we got twins.
I purchased a 2004 sx230 also with many of the same problems.
- I used the Atwood's marine silicone sealant for my drain plug (was also very loose) it's been great ever since.
- my engine idles needed to be synced
- had to adjust the throttle cables to sync them also. (Right lever was always fwd of left lever)
- bearings and seals replaced on both jet pumps (only the starboard one failed)
-marina in Tampa put air filter in backward on starboard engine (there is a tab so no idiot would do this?)
-oil also over filled and oil inside air intake box.
- my steering is ok
- had to replace impeller housing both sides (port was metal and had multiple rub spots, starboard was plastic and looked fine but I wanted matching performance and was getting cavitation from starboard plastic side)(turns out cavitation was from not having good sealant on the water intake areas)
-3m 5200 the intake areas (fixed cavitation)
- replaced one duct impeller (had crack from bearing removal)
- replaced depth finder
- found hole in speedo tube and replaced it
- adjusted the cleanout port's latch switches and replaced bottom half of latch
-rewired horn
- replaced thermostat in starboard eng
- found oil leak coming from starboard oil filter - replaced both oil filters and did oil change on both eng
- replaced spark plugs on both sides
-drive shaft splines were stuck in starboard engine (took forever to get loose)

-NEXT - forward and reverse cables. These are so stiff (coming from neutral to fwd or neutral to reverse= stiff! Fwd to reverse is a fight! Sometimes both hands)
Once the buckets are moved up or down from neutral they can be only stiff again
Where did you get you cables for under 40$ i need both!

And I have an RPM issue: i need help with too.
Before I would only get up to 9100RPM starboard.
And I could get 9900-10,000RPM port
I put the port air filter on the starboard side and visa versa
= starboard side now can get 9600-9800RPM
And port side of course went down from 9900 to 9200rpm
So it's obvious i need new air filters! BUT
Why cant i get 10000rpm out of thr starboard side if i can get 10k out of the port side? (With the one good filter)

Lastly i wanted to compare rpms and speeds with you if that's ok since we both have the same boat? Right now I can only get 9600rpm 45mph (until my new filters get here) did you go with washable filters? Do you like them?

Also I'm happy to help with any info from any of the stuff I have done so far or picture of how the batteries are set up in my boat if you'd like.

 

[Saltydog]

Where did you get your cleanout plug rebuild kits from? Mine are stuck.