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Fuel level sending unit and gauge upgrade AR230

SocalK

Well-Known Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
15
Points
62
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Was tired of not knowing the fuel level in my ‘06 AR230 so I replaced the fuel sending unit and gauge. I’m sure someone has posted about this but thought I’d provide the details of what I did.
I replaced the fuel sending unit with a KUS SSL 12 sending unit. Bought it on EBay $40.
I ordered a new digital gauge on Amazon. The factory fuel gauge actually worked fine when I connected the new sending unit, but since I already purchased the gauge, and wanted something more modern, I installed it.

The new sending unit was a perfect match in terms of length to the OEM. However, the mounting flange on the new unit was significantly thinner so I needed to buy new bolts. Picked up 5 stainless 10/24 3/4” long stainless button head bolts, stainless washers and neoprene washers from Home Depot. Used a little waterproof clear silicone around the bolt heads to ensure a seal.

When wiring the newsending unit, it only requires 2 wires; the ground and the connection to the gauge. The 12V battery positive wire is capped and not used. I used a butt splice and filled with waterproof silicone to ensure it was sealed. Don’t want a spark in there!

I spliced the new gauge wiring harness into the existing, in case a future owner ever wants to go back to an OEM gauge. For reference the factory wiring specs are; black = ground, purple = 12V positive, pink = connection to gauge, blue = boat lighting positive. FCDAA354-F357-4E2F-B888-C8526D307136.jpeg932CE5A3-B2A3-45D6-88EF-F7D72C1D96CF.jpeg90F8D8B9-F9F3-4FC3-B181-699AD25237B1.jpeg897878B5-2280-4611-AA0B-74427D06ABB4.jpegB9FEB97D-DA2A-45CE-B5E6-5B99F7CED008.jpegA2F17956-1708-4B73-B550-A65C3D65F64D.jpegB49DC65A-B1D6-4132-9A27-D353CAE2C6D0.jpegE4CE13B0-034C-4EF3-853F-D4742F989002.jpeg
 
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Update: the new gauge was drawing enough power to cause a low voltage issue on my No Wake switch Port side. I re-wired the gauge by just splicing the orange dash light wire into the red 12V+, which just sums the display. Fixed the issue and the brightness is still fine.
 
Looking for some help or insight! My gauge was stuck full and then I unplugged and plugged back in… and it dropped below empty and is stuck there. I could short circuit the sender wires and get the empty light to go off but the needle doesn’t move. Replaced the sender and no change. Replaced the fuel gauge with an Amazon replacement and still stuck on empty. Followed the same wiring process as @SocalK which was helpful and made sense
 
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