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Gelcoat repair question

tdonoughue

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
4,926
Reaction score
4,052
Points
417
Location
The Woodlands, TX 77381
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Ok, so I have the 'paste' gelcoat from Spectrum. Got droppers to add the hardener. Got my masking tape. Got a piece of heavier plastic to cover the work so it can harden. Yet I have 2 questions before I embark on my first gelcoat repair job:

1) Any recommendations for where to mix this stuff? Do I want like a piece of plastic on which to mix it? Or a little cup? Plastic? Metal? Cardboard? What works best?

2) How will I spread it? I watched a video where they used a disposable hobby brush (one of the metal ones with the black hard bristles). Will that work with the paste? Or do I need a spatula-like thing? Metal? Plastic? Wood?

Thanks for any advice you can give.
 
My patience is apparently thin today. So I went up with what I could find. Here are the answers and some additional hints:

1) I mixed in a shot glass with a wooden popsicle stick. That seemed the perfect size, with no odd corners or anything where I could not get the stuff out.

2) Best spreader option I found was to lop some on with the popsicle stick and then use one of those nylon Bondo spreaders. With that I could push into gaps. Careful to not push too hard or you will not have enough material to sand. The paste is the consistency of Vaseline.

3) In this pic you can see the shot glass and the popsicle stick. More notably, look at the top of the hardener that comes with the Spectrum color. It is a dropper built into the bottle. So, that pack of eyedroppers I bought so that I could put in 10-12 drops? Worthless. But Spectrum gets a point for ease of use.
20160424_151400.jpg4) I ran out of the nice plastic stuff I was using to cover up the gel to dry, so I improvised with the cover off of the paper towels I brought...

20160424_151326.jpg
5) Pics, because it did happen:
20160424_151319.jpg 20160424_151311.jpg 20160424_151303.jpg

All in all, much easier than I thought it would be. It is curing now, but was getting tacky even when I was putting on the plastic. I put 12 drops of hardener (I tried to put 11, but squeezed too much). I think next time 10 would be wiser and might give more working time (not that I had any issues, but if I had a bigger job...).

End of report.
 
Great write up @tdonoughue

Hopefully this is knowledge that I'll never need (knocking on wood now) but good to know. ;)
 
Nice info, keep up the posts. I have to do this same thing as soon as it gets a bit warmer/drier up here, nice to read how others do it (or screw it up) before I do. :D
 
I always used a plastic spatula or drywall knifes.
I always end up sanding a lot too though.
 
I just mixed it on a piece plastic and used a plastic scraper to apply. One thin coat let sit a hr then a top finish coat. Start sanding with 220 up to 1200 then buffed it all out. Couldnt tell a repair was done.
 

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My patience is apparently thin today. So I went up with what I could find. Here are the answers and some additional hints:

1) I mixed in a shot glass with a wooden popsicle stick. That seemed the perfect size, with no odd corners or anything where I could not get the stuff out.

2) Best spreader option I found was to lop some on with the popsicle stick and then use one of those nylon Bondo spreaders. With that I could push into gaps. Careful to not push too hard or you will not have enough material to sand. The paste is the consistency of Vaseline.

3) In this pic you can see the shot glass and the popsicle stick. More notably, look at the top of the hardener that comes with the Spectrum color. It is a dropper built into the bottle. So, that pack of eyedroppers I bought so that I could put in 10-12 drops? Worthless. But Spectrum gets a point for ease of use.
View attachment 361644) I ran out of the nice plastic stuff I was using to cover up the gel to dry, so I improvised with the cover off of the paper towels I brought...

View attachment 36165
5) Pics, because it did happen:
View attachment 36166 View attachment 36167 View attachment 36168

All in all, much easier than I thought it would be. It is curing now, but was getting tacky even when I was putting on the plastic. I put 12 drops of hardener (I tried to put 11, but squeezed too much). I think next time 10 would be wiser and might give more working time (not that I had any issues, but if I had a bigger job...).

End of report.
So did you have a shot of whiskey afterwards???:winkingthumbsup"

I might be tackling mine this weekend so thanks for the info.

Mike
 
...only suggestion I have is not using the plastic from a paper towel roll. The plastic is not stiff enough to "flatten" out the gelcoat and will give you ridges that will take more sanding. I use clear report covers I got from work.
 
Yeah, well, that part (the plastic from the paper towel) was not planned. That was the, 'Oh sh!t I ran out of plastic, but the stuff is already spread...,' moment. So I figured that covering it with something was better than covering it with nothing... I would not recommend it either. I was going to bring sheet protectors, too, but figured that what I had would be enough and stiffer. Oops.
 
So what does the plastic do? Help it cure? I assume it is necessary/required or is it just something everyone does?

UPS delivered my 2 bottles today but I have not had a chance to open and review the instructions yet.
 
So what does the plastic do? Help it cure? I assume it is necessary/required or is it just something everyone does?

UPS delivered my 2 bottles today but I have not had a chance to open and review the instructions yet.
The plastic lets a large section to be very smooth and follow the contour of the boat.
This of course assumes you don't have too much in excess.
 
ahhh, so I am not the only one that put a couple of little nicks on it's first season out.
Funny how it didn't bother me with the previous boat. maybe because this one is shinier. Lol.
 
Ok, well I made it up today after work so that I could get the tape off the boat promptly. While I was there, well, um, I kinda finished the job:

20160426_191427.jpg

Here is what I learned:
1) Don't panic. Yes, when you are sanding, you look like you are removing a ton of material. And then when you finish the 'dust' from sanding makes the whole surface look ugly. And if you wipe it all off, you will see that the whole thing looks scuffed and ugly. Don't panic. Keep going. I started with 320 (wet), then did 600, then 800 (both wet, of course). The first two I did with a block, the 800 I just did by hand, allowing the water to suck the paper to the boat. By the time I was done with all of that, it was still scuffed and ugly. Final two steps I used my Griott's buffer with the Griott's Machine Polish 1. As if by magic, when I did that, the surface was magically shiny and everything looked new. Then I did the Polish 2, just to clean it up a bit more. No scuff in sight.
2) Start with a clean boat. I didn't. Made it much more difficult to see things.
3) Those deeper gouges really need some extra material lumped on top of them. My deepest gouges are not fully repaired; they are just less deep and filled with red (so you see them less). Shrinkage was much more than I anticipated (glad I learned this before taking on the really large white section I need to do).
4) That last-minute plastic from the paper towels? It left its mark... from the ink on the other side of the thin plastic. Fortunately, it sanded right off with no issue.
5) The plastic not only served to flatten out the gel, but also seals the gel to allow it to cure. It does not cure in air well, so you need to cover it with plastic wrap or something. The stiffer plastics (like a thick sheet protector or report cover) push down the material and give you a flatter surface from which to start your sanding. But see #3.
6) That red does get everywhere while you are wet sanding. BTW, use lots of water on the wet sanding. You will be able to feel when you are done because there will be less resistance to moving the sandpaper over the boat.
7) The tiny scratches in the bow? They really did need to be widened in order to repair them. Even though they were not that deep. When I sanded, those nice white lines reappeared. Not as bad as they were, so no loss. But not fully fixed.
8) I think I put my tape too close to my repairs. That left the material up against the tape, making a ridge that then needed to be sanded out. I think had I left more space (as I did on one spot), I could have feathered it better and probably made sanding easier. One the ones that were against the tape I took off the tape to sand. On the ones that were feathered, I left the tape on for the sanding and removed it before polishing.
9) My results were not perfect. About 1/2 of the attempted repairs are flawless/nearly flawless. 1/2 of them are reduced and filled with color. I am not an expert, but I am sure that with another pass and some more practice, I definitely could be. Certainly more confident. If I spent more time and maybe did another coat, you would not see a thing. I will not hesitate in the future to try this fix.

To treat my boat for being so patient with her, I treated her to some Hot Sauce before putting her away.

End of report. Again.
 
Looks great! You will be surprise how that "confidence" till transfer to other areas of your boating experience.
 
As soon as my kit arrives i will tackle this.. i was quoted $700 to repair.. may as well try myself.
 
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