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General Winter Guidance/Questions

djtech2k

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
249
Reaction score
27
Points
97
Location
WV
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
I have watched a lot of videos and read a lot of posts here on winterizing. I am not trying to open a debate on things like using antifreeze or not. I just have some guidance questions.

I have bought all of the stuff I think I need. I had planned to try to do it myself. My plan was to:

- Change Oil & Filter
- Change Plugs
- Fog the Engine (thru air intake)
- Start Boat and low RPM rev's to blow out water
- Use air compressor to shoot air into the water flush valves to push any remaining water out


Now that was my loose plan and sequence to do it. So first question is, how does that look? As I have thought about it, I am wondering if it makes sense to change the oil and plugs now, before winter, rather than doing it in the spring. I mean I am just thinking about the new oil and plugs just sitting in there rather than having it fresh for the spring, when I will run the boat again. What do you guys think? Honestly, I had planned to attempt all this last weekend, but I hurt my back and have been unable to do much of anything and likely won't be able to this weekend either.

On a brighter note, my new mooring cover just arrived so I want to get that on ASAP. I just need to get this winterized so I can cover and tow it to my rented storage spot.
 
I’m doing much the same as you plan except I’ll install the new plugs in the Spring, and I plan to, but may not, do antifreeze.

I prefer to change oil in the Fall so old oil isn’t sitting in the engine over winter. I do the same for all my garden tool motors. I was going to do the plugs in the Fall until it was pointed out “why get the fogging oil all over new plugs“, so I’ll wait on that. That advice also suggested spraying the fogging oil via the spark plug holes so that you don’t gum up the induction. That may be decided by laziness.
 
I think it sounds fine and far more than most do. I don't think many people use the compressed air and from what I have read, I estimate only about 25% do the fogging.

But the oil, plugs and starting to blow out the water are definitely spot on. Be sure to also pull the cleanout plugs and let them set outside the holes (otherwise they can corrode into place). A light coating of silicone gasket lube (any pool store has it) on them will help protect them.
 
Would it be a really bad or harmful thing to change the oil and the plugs in the spring? It just seems like doing it right before running it again would be better than doing it now and letting it sit all winter. I plan to do the fogging and the water flushing before parking for winter, but the oil and plugs are the thing I am debating about.
 
My preference is to change oil in the fall. I prefer to remove any built up contaminants, acids etc., which will sit in your engine over the winter.

At worst with new oil sitting over the winter, you may get a bit of condensation in it, but that should boil off quickly in the spring.
 
I’m doing much the same as you plan except I’ll install the new plugs in the Spring, and I plan to, but may not, do antifreeze.

I prefer to change oil in the Fall so old oil isn’t sitting in the engine over winter. I do the same for all my garden tool motors. I was going to do the plugs in the Fall until it was pointed out “why get the fogging oil all over new plugs“, so I’ll wait on that. That advice also suggested spraying the fogging oil via the spark plug holes so that you don’t gum up the induction. That may be decided by laziness.
@TimW451 .....IMO great advice. I used to religiously fog all my marine engines from 1990 to 2014. About 2014 I started getting tech advisories that questioned my former practice by saying that there could be negative consequences to various fuel injection, O2 sensor and emissions systems so I stopped doing that component. Therefore I now put my new plugs in the Fall. 100% agree to NEVER leave a summer's oil in any engine for a long time as it contains contaminates and acids that are very harmful when not repeatedly heated to burn-off gasses, water vapor and acidic vapor - so change that oil (after heating to normal temperature) and filter in the Fall before lay-up.
 
So what is the real deal with this fogging business? All the videos say appear to pull out the air filter and shoot the fog into there while it is running. Now I have seen it mentioned to spray it into the spark plug holes. Which is the way to go? I do not have the HO engines, if that makes any difference.

It sure would be nice to know there's 1 way to do it right and not have to second guess it. What do the dealers do?
 
For fogging my 1.8NA engines, I pull the crankcase vent hose which attaches to the intake hose between the air filter and throttle body and spray some oil in there while the engine is idling. This should coat the back of the valves with oil. I then also pull the plugs and spray a bit of oil in the cylinders, then turn the engine over a few times to coat the cylinder walls.
 
I haven't heard about blowing out the outlets.

I didn't use antifreeze but I followed Leon's video fairly close.

 
new owner here with the 1.8's... read all the debates here etc... here's what i did:

-started dry, blipped throttles a few times
-opened all drains
-took stuff out of boat including batteries
-put bucket of damp rid in
-took out cleanout plugs, drained water from them, cleaned, greased metal contact points, set back in sideways
-put cover on

that's about it for my "winterization"

Yearly i'll grease main bearing & linkages and change oil whenever i get the time. Plugs will be changed every other year or so.
 
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