• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Glue guide in valve cover

jmargo

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
358
Reaction score
229
Points
127
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Pulled the valve covers today and one of the chain guides was sitting on the top of the chain. I JB welded it back on. Will that hold or did I use the wrong stuff.

ThanksCAC8A1B0-61FB-450E-BF6C-3F9042F8C93C.jpeg
 
I would try to make sure JB weld is not affected by motor oil. If it lets loose it could end up in the camshafts. At least overlap the ends as in the image. Here is a link to a thread where a loose chain guide may have destroyed an engine. Chain guide failure?
 

Attachments

  • Chain guide stopper 2.png
    Chain guide stopper 2.png
    20 MB · Views: 33
FYI: FAQ

See the one about whether it is ok in gasoline. They say it is good in all petroleum products.
 
Thanks. I added a bead of 3M 4200 just in case.DE9059A8-7D4B-40E3-ACA9-5FD25B0286D3.jpeg
 
If I remember right, there are detents in the valve cover that the chain guide gets pressed into.
 
There are detents in the valve cover.
 
Is 4200 rated for those kinds of temperatures ?
 
I doubt if JB Weld or 3M would stand behind their product used in this way. If the chain guide ever let's loose, it is, probably, only a matter of time before major damage occurs. I would replace it. In this case a mechanical attachment is better that a chemical one.
 
I doubt if JB Weld or 3M would stand behind their product used in this way. If the chain guide ever let's loose, it is, probably, only a matter of time before major damage occurs. I would replace it. In this case a mechanical attachment is better that a chemical one.

It is held on by some sort of adhesive from the factory. It also rides right above the chain and with the pins I think even if it did come loose it would stay in place until the cover is lifted again.
 
@jmargo Hopefully, that is how it will play out. I do wonder how it was dislodged? In 'Oh just pullin a 15 month old sbt engine' post #36 @Jaycav evidenced a shredded chain guide that probably led to engine failure. However, it was the chain guide on the intake side, not the one on top.
 
Guess the cover is coming back off.
Sorry about that. But I would rather tell you now than to tell you later after an issue...

But, hey! Your JB Weld is still good. :)
 
Sorry about that. But I would rather tell you now than to tell you later after an issue...

But, hey! Your JB Weld is still good. :)
It's all good. I just need to figure out how to get the 4200 off.
 
I noticed a loose chain guide on one of my engines last off season when I had to take the valve (head?) covers off to get what was left of a spark plug which failed. As I recall the guide snaps onto two posts molded into the bottom of the cover. One of the flanges on one of openings on the guide (the dark circles in part 25 in the attached screenshot) moved further from the post than usual. I simply pushed the flange or lip of the guide back into position before reinstalling the guide. It seemed secure and the engine has run fine since but this thread and now knowing the cost has got me to commit to replacing both guides when I replace all the coils (preventive maintenance) this off season.

0DE2DD8E-667A-4ACA-BC53-EF039BE8460B.png
 
It's all good. I just need to figure out how to get the 4200 off.
Oil... <kidding--couldn't resist>

I would just take a scraper to it. If that doesn't get it or enough of it, you can always use Debond on it. If it gets 5200 it will get 4200 no problem.
 
Oil... <kidding--couldn't resist>

I would just take a scraper to it. If that doesn't get it or enough of it, you can always use Debond on it. If it gets 5200 it will get 4200 no problem.
Good thing is I ran the motor after so it has been pre-soaking. I just read about debond. Looks like it won't mess with the jbweld so that's good.
 
@zipper could probably tell us for sure (he drinks the stuff), but I would be very surprised if it affected JB...
 
I used oil safe rtv silicone.. Kind of silicone that can be used on valve covers. It held after 1 year and 60 hours run time. I periodically check my timing chain because I have the year with chain issues. I wouldn't use jb weld.. If that fails then you will have hard epoxy floating in your motor.
 
Back
Top