Going from bigger to smaller?

[2kwik4u]

I do love that giant top, I couldn’t justify the extra money for the other upgrades. Only other I thing I wanted was better speakers and I took care of that. Walmart umbrella in the swim deck table holder and a beach tent in the bow added some shade for the kids and our “tanning challenged” friends. Not as good as a giant top but $50 is a lot easier pull to swallow that a extra 12G or whatever it is for the 242.

I agree.

I'm really nervous about the electronic throttles as well as all the digital integration. Gold old fashioned switches and cables just feel more my style.

I'll come around eventually I'm sure.

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

I agree.

I'm really nervous about the electronic throttles as well as all the digital integration. Gold old fashioned switches and cables just feel more my style.

I'll come around eventually I'm sure.

I’ve been happy with the mix on the AR240. I really didn’t look into anything besides the AR series, and the AR240 was already pushing my budget, so E throttles and all that weren’t going to happen. Boat starts just fine without the connext, I absolutely killed my house battery last weekend so I had to crank motors without the screen. Steering and throttle are cables, so as long as you don’t loose the screen and start taking on water (bilge switch is on the screen) you can fully operate the boat to get it back to the ramp/dock.

For me it’s more a maintenance thing, old school is so much easier to work on. At least on the AR I can do pretty much anything required short of internal engine work. These boats with even more electronic control seem like they pretty much have to be taken to the dealer for any issue.

I’ve been dealing with the old school upgrade to new electronic fanciness in my line of work for awhile, once the kinks get worked out and you accept its going to change it ain’t to bad.

 

[tdonoughue]

I agree with @biglar155 and @2kwik4u . I like my non-Connext boat. Lots of bugs there with the screen having issues... But I digress.

Another point for our OP to consider: If you are already in a boat now is NOT the time to upgrade to that exact one that you want. You probably won't find it and will be settling for something close, but not exactly on. And you will pay through the nose for it. Now, you will get top dollar for your existing boat, but the top dollar on the new boat will be more than the top dollar you are getting.

You have a working boat that is good and you like. Keep it a year. Let this disease work itself out a bit. Let them produce some boats and let some boats come on the market. Then you can go looking for the right boat for you.

IMHO.

 

[2kwik4u]

I agree with @biglar155 and @2kwik4u . I like my non-Connext boat. Lots of bugs there with the screen having issues... But I digress.

Another point for our OP to consider: If you are already in a boat now is NOT the time to upgrade to that exact one that you want. You probably won't find it and will be settling for something close, but not exactly on. And you will pay through the nose for it. Now, you will get top dollar for your existing boat, but the top dollar on the new boat will be more than the top dollar you are getting.

You have a working boat that is good and you like. Keep it a year. Let this disease work itself out a bit. Let them produce some boats and let some boats come on the market. Then you can go looking for the right boat for you.

IMHO.

This is a good point.

I have suspicion we'll see a flooded buyers market inside of 12-18mo window. Lots of folks buying now since you can boat while everything else is closed. They'll either be "over it", or find out they aren't really the boat people they thought they were by this time next year.

I sure wish the hobby could hold onto the influx of members from the last few months, but I doubt that's the case.

 

[WiskyDan]

This community is great - so much knowledge!! Thanks to all of you that have replied so far.

biglar155: Thank you for the post - great points all the way around. I'm one of those people that gets a different car every couple of years and maybe that mentality is pushing into my boat replacement plan. I hadn't thought about writing a $400'ish check for a boat payment in January until you brought it up. My current payment is a shade under $200 and it's not painful at all writing it in the off season. The idea of wrapping the boat is an intriguing one - I hadn't thought of that. If I did keep my current boat, I'd replace the bimini, replace the carpeting with BlackTip Elite, reupholster the cushions, and wrap the hull at the bare minimum. I'm guessing that this would cost around $7000 but I'm just spit balling. I struggle with putting that kind of investment into a 14 year old boat but you make great points.

I decided to call my sales guy at TWL yesterday after I posted this and we talked about this whole scenario. We were on the phone for a good 30 minutes and we came up with a preliminary plan:

• Th AR240 seems to be the best choice for me. The 212S is about the same MSRP and I like having the extra room.
• He will keep his eyes open for a newer AR240 so that I could avoid the year one depreciation on a brand new boat.
• He is not a fan of the TR-1 engines and said that I would not be happy after having the MR-1 in my current boat - 1.8's all the way.
• They may have some promotions in the fall where they offer better than boat show pricing for early orders of 2021's- this is still being determined.
• My current boat has real value for them for the same reason that I bought it. It allows new boaters to get into a twin engine boat at a lower price point which, in many cases, leads to repeat customers as people graduate to new/newer boats. I'm guessing that I could get more for it selling it on my own so keep an eye out for it in the classified adds at some point.
• My plan is to sit down with him in October'ish and decide if/how to move forward.

 

[WiskyDan]

As mentioned, the Team Winnebagoland sales guy and I talked for at least 30 minutes yesterday. He even spent some time helping me how to approach and anchor up to a sandbar which I’ll be doing this weekend. I wouldn’t buy a Yamaha from anyone else - great service.

 

[Dave burke]

Good stuff. What was is advice re the sandbar? Our lake has lots of shallow spots so this is relevant to me. Thx

 

[WiskyDan]

He told me to come in slow, do a 180, put the bow anchor out, go slowly into reverse to set the anchor. Then attach the bungee line for my Sandshark to one of the stern cleats and walk out until there is good tension on it, drop the bungee line, auger in my Sandshark so it's at least 50% buried, then attach the bungee line to the Sandshark. I bought a box anchor for the bow that should arrive today and the Sandshark was part of the accessory pack that I bought with the boat so I'm hoping it's solid. I don't want to be "that guy" at the sandbar.

 

[Dave burke]

Lol. Very helpful. Thanks.

 

[anmut]

He told me to come in slow, do a 180, put the bow anchor out, go slowly into reverse to set the anchor. Then attach the bungee line for my Sandshark to one of the stern cleats and walk out until there is good tension on it, drop the bungee line, auger in my Sandshark so it's at least 50% buried, then attach the bungee line to the Sandshark. I bought a box anchor for the bow that should arrive today and the Sandshark was part of the accessory pack that I bought with the boat so I'm hoping it's solid. I don't want to be "that guy" at the sandbar.

I've considered that move in pulling up to the sandbar but decided against it. Our sandbars are 2-4' deep for a good length of distance until you hit the channel and it drops off. Because reversing needs more throttle than going forward, it causes a lot of thrust disturbance right into the sand below the intakes, and the buckets are down that sounds like a good way (to me) to jam something up in your impeller or buckets.

I pull in the fun way - get some speed coming in at 5' of depth, set throttle to first forward detente, then just watch the depth finder. At 3', cut the throttles, open the buckets all the way up (forward) to allow pass-through, and jump to the back of the boat. Jump in the water, grab the pull handle, and swing the boat around. Then I auger in two land anchors into the sand about 5' away from both stern cleats and use the airhead dock bungees to clip the boat to the land anchors. This allows the boat to float with waves but also keeps it planted between the two land anchors in all directions.

 

[WiskyDan]

I've considered that move in pulling up to the sandbar but decided against it. Our sandbars are 2-4' deep for a good length of distance until you hit the channel and it drops off. Because reversing needs more throttle than going forward, it causes a lot of thrust disturbance right into the sand below the intakes, and the buckets are down that sounds like a good way (to me) to jam something up in your impeller or buckets.

I pull in the fun way - get some speed coming in at 5' of depth, set throttle to first forward detente, then just watch the depth finder. At 3', cut the throttles, open the buckets all the way up (forward) to allow pass-through, and jump to the back of the boat. Jump in the water, grab the pull handle, and swing the boat around. Then I auger in two land anchors into the sand about 5' away from both stern cleats and use the airhead dock bungees to clip the boat to the land anchors. This allows the boat to float with waves but also keeps it planted between the two land anchors in all directions.

Thanks for the tips - great stuff!!

I've had other people say once you start to get into shallow water (I guess the depth could vary depending on who you ask) to cut the engines and walk the boat in to avoid debris or sand getting sucked up into the intakes which makes sense to me. The box-style anchor is supposed to set/hold pretty well so maybe I don't need the reverse action to get it set - or maybe just pull the boat back by hand a bit to help set it.

So you only anchor off of the stern with two auger-type anchors - nothing on the bow?

 

[BigAbe75]

I agree.

I'm really nervous about the electronic throttles as well as all the digital integration. Gold old fashioned switches and cables just feel more my style.

I'll come around eventually I'm sure.

You can drive my eThrottle boat next month.... that will cure your "old fashioned-ness". It really is that awesome. Lol!

 

[anmut]

You can drive my eThrottle boat next month.... that will cure your "old fashioned-ness". It really is that awesome. Lol!

My 2020 has mechanical throttle cables from the helm but it's still drive by wire after those boxes. That's how the Ride Steady unit is able to control engine speed without any mechanical servos. Pretty much like a hybrid throttle.

 

[BigAbe75]

My 2020 has mechanical throttle cables from the helm but it's still drive by wire after those boxes. That's how the Ride Steady unit is able to control engine speed without any mechanical servos. Pretty much like a hybrid throttle.

Yep, that’s a great solution. But, the butter smooth throttles sure are nice. Totally different feel. Now, whether it’s worth that big price increase... I don’t know. But, now that I’ve experienced them, I’ll be hard pressed to go backwards. ?

 

[WiskyDan]

So I decided to go a little bigger instead of a little smaller.

Almost got a great deal on a private seller 2017 242 Limited S but was second in line to the eventual buyers. A couple of days after I missed on the 2017 my sales guy at Team Winnebagoland calls me and says that he’s getting in a nice 2015 242 Limited S on trade. The price was a smidge high but it has a custom snap-in mooring cover and he would through the Thrust Vector’s in for free - SOLD!!!

I sold my 2006 SX230 to a gentleman in Illinois (thanks Jason!!) last Sunday and I pick up the new boat this morning - totally stoked.

I’ll report back later after we get it on the water.

 

[WiskyDan]

Was only on the boat for a couple hours this afternoon (had a grad party to go to at 4:00pm) but in handles much better than my 06’ SX230. The articulating keel and Thrust Vectors made low speed handling around the dock much more manageable - definitely an improvement.

A few things that jumped out at me:

- We only got up to 46mph with the throttles open on calm water and minimal wind. I was thinking that it would be closer to 50mph.

- There is so much more storage than on the 06’ SX230.

- I had a Garmin CV63 chart plotter mounted on the dash which was a mistake. It cuts off too much of my view so it will have to be moved. I gave the guys at the dealership the OK to mount it there but I should have went to see it first - nobody’s fault but mine.

- The two piece snap-in mooring cover is nice but I need to figure out the proper snap sequence for attaching it while the boat is in the water.

- It’s not as quiet as I thought it would be based on info that I’ve read online.

Overall I love the boat and can’t wait to get out on it tomorrow.

 

[WiskyDan]

So had the new boat out all day yesterday and my biggest takeaway was how much the 1.8’s suck gas when compared to the MR-1’s in my old SX230.

Had 7 teenagers in the boat and pulled the towable around for about an hour and a half before relaxing at the sandbar. While deploying the HO towable I discovered that the extra Boston valves that I bought to replace one that I had lost had the wrong thread size. Rather than waste the last day the kids have in the water we went back to the marina and dumped $350 on the last towable they had - a four person “Big Bubba”. A missing $4 valve ended up costing me $350....argh!!!!!

Putting the snap-in cover back on has turned out to be a chore and those last few snaps are killing me when I have to pull it tight. Any tips from those that have snap-in’s??

Getting the bimini stored proved to be a learning experience as well - not all that convenient unless you have an extra set of hands.

All in all I love the boat and hope the weather here in the Midwest holds for another 4-6 weeks so I can get some use out of it before it goes in storage.

 

[biglar155]

Was only on the boat for a couple hours this afternoon (had a grad party to go to at 4:00pm) but in handles much better than my 06’ SX230. The articulating keel and Thrust Vectors made low speed handling around the dock much more manageable - definitely an improvement.

A few things that jumped out at me:

- We only got up to 46mph with the throttles open on calm water and minimal wind. I was thinking that it would be closer to 50mph.

- There is so much more storage than on the 06’ SX230.

- I had a Garmin CV63 chart plotter mounted on the dash which was a mistake. It cuts off too much of my view so it will have to be moved. I gave the guys at the dealership the OK to mount it there but I should have went to see it first - nobody’s fault but mine.

- The two piece snap-in mooring cover is nice but I need to figure out the proper snap sequence for attaching it while the boat is in the water.

- It’s not as quiet as I thought it would be based on info that I’ve read online.

Overall I love the boat and can’t wait to get out on it tomorrow.

View attachment 130475

That bridge sure looks like you're in Oshkosh. Where are you tied up?

 

[WiskyDan]

I dry-stack at Sweetwater Performance Center - on the river right before you get onto Winnebago.

 

[06c6z06]

I have the same covers on my SX240, bow and cockpit. I have found out for the front cover, if you start from the front and work back without putting the front pole in, leave the front window open and finish the front snaps, shut the window and snap the last three snaps on the window and then put the front pole in. This gives you some movement room for doing the snaps. The pole then tightens up the front cover. The bow cover, I have the cover folded from the back to the front in two ft sections with the final fold with the windshield back. This allows me to lay the cockpit cover on the shield and reach over the shield and snap the the front snaps, then I work my way back the the swim platform to close the vessel up.

Hope this helps...