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@212s agreed with comments -well put. My answer to not wet slipping and having no ability to charge from May to September was to purchase a "specialized" battery: both in the size and chemistry that my stator could charge - hence the Series 24 TPPL - last season the stator managed to charge that battery on even short runs (15 minutes) back to the slip. Fingers crossed for a similar result this season.
If you can't plug in to charge, have you thought about a solar panel you can bungee-cord to the boat to top it off and quickly remove when you want to go boating?
If you can't plug in to charge, have you thought about a solar panel you can bungee-cord to the boat to top it off and quickly remove when you want to go boating?
@212s ..... yes and that is a good suggestion. I would of course also add a controller to avoid over-charging the battery but you know that too. So far my stator is charging that NorthStar TPPL fine (as far as I can determine) but a roll-up solar panel is on the radar for me. Thank you for the informative suggestion!
Since I have been searching for my next battery, I located the following regarding Duracell’s Marine AGMs. Only attaching as a reference for the questions above about differences in the 24M, 27M and 31M. Obviously these rating will be different for other manufacturers/chemistry, but I would think the relationships to capacity, weight and dimensions would be somewhat proportional.
If you can't plug in to charge, have you thought about a solar panel you can bungee-cord to the boat to top it off and quickly remove when you want to go boating?
@212s ..... yes and that is a good suggestion. I would of course also add a controller to avoid over-charging the battery but you know that too. So far my stator is charging that NorthStar TPPL fine (as far as I can determine) but a roll-up solar panel is on the radar for me. Thank you for the informative suggestion!
Since I have been searching for my next battery, I located the following regarding Duracell’s Marine AGMs. Only attaching as a reference for the questions above about differences in the 24M, 27M and 31M. Obviously these rating will be different for other manufacturers/chemistry, but I would think the relationships to capacity, weight and dimensions would be somewhat proportional.
@VitaminSea .... agree that the specifications among top manufacturers should be congruent as it is like battery chemistry. There is a significant performance gap from Flooded to AGM and another significant performance gap from AGM to TPPL. In my 2013 32 foot cruiser I had 6 Penn Deka Series 31 AGMs. They were awesome. Of course the four that were house were wired to operate as one battery and when doing so with AGMs there is a super efficiency which greatly enhances their resistance to draw-down as they act as one battery. I could run all manner of electronics, refrigerators, fans, etc. - in combination - for hours before having to start my generator. In my 2014 38 foot cruiser I had 6 TPPLs. The synergy provided by the TPPLs was so staggeringly effective that slip mates could hardly believe how resistant they were to draw-down. It was as good as you can get without getting into "sexy" 6 volt and Lithium applications.
Great thread everyone. Looking to replace my stock battery from a 2018 SX195, @Canuckjetboater your situation is very similar to mine. I wet slip for the season, May to September and have no access to shore power so was looking at the following:
NorthStar marine batteries excel at providing high vibration resistance, with the high cranking amps and reserve capacity that watercraft demand. Pure lead AGM technology delivers exceptional CCA ratings and reserve capacity cycling ability Quick starting every time Cycles over 900 times at...
www.odysseybattery.com
Just wanted to confirm that it’s the AGM TPPL you were referring to.
Northstar pros are tppl batteries. Exactly the same as odyssey extremes. If you have room, for just a few bucks more you can jump to gp27’s whch uave significantly more reserve power. I just bought a pair. I think maybe 379 ea
Thanks for confirming @mrcleanr6, my understanding is I should replace with the 24 as I don’t have shore power and that I may not be able to fully charge a 27 while using the boat?
Not really but that depends on you and how you use the boat. Do you ride the boat 10 min then just sit all day then 10 min back? If so then you would probably be better off with 24’s i guess but thats a problem for any battery. If you actually use the boat then you would have no issues with 27’s. To give you an idea i have an electronic charger with an anylizer that after about 5 min it will tell me the % charge that the battery is at. Listening to the stereo all day while i was working on the boat, my batteries were at 60%, atleast house. i ran 1 motor, svho, on the hose for aprox 20 min. In that time it brought them up to 94%. Now assuming there is probably a little error in those #’s, even if its somewhere in the ballpark correct then that is quick and thats only one motor. The tppl’s charge way faster than regular lead acid. Thats the beauty of them. I wouldnt think twice about putting 27’s in.
Anyone got recommendations for a good battery to supply the tunes? I got a AR240, so the 4x6.5inch cockpit speakers, a amp for 2x8inch tower speakers (idk the size of it off the top of my head, and I don’t feel like uncovering the boat, but it’s nothing crazy) and I just ordered a Wetsounds AS-10 sub.
My original starter battery is going strong, but cranking the tunes for 6 hours every summer weekend draining the battery down to low voltage warning, has taken its toll on the house battery. It also sat off the charger for 4 months this spring while the boat was waiting for jet pump/drive shaft parts.
I might upgrade the 4 stock speakers and get a bigger amp to power those and the tower speakers, and of course I will have the AS-10.
I was looking at a Duracell deep cycle marine AGM 31, 100amps, not sure if that is going to have enough juice for 6 hours of floating or if I should get 2 house batteries to double up.
I do have a Noco genius 2 which is hooked up anytime the boat is not in use.
Hard to say how much you will drain a single battery. Everyones stereo and the level they play it varies. Just remember you dont want to drain an agm or std lead acid below 50%. Below that and you start to damage the battery. If you feel you will drain a single gp31 down below that then you need to add a second house battery. Voltage gauges arent exactly accurate in telling you the actual state of charge. Victron makes a small battery monitor gauge. A 702 i believe. It will give you an actual % that the battery bank is at.
I've had good luck with Costco marine and deep cycle batteries. Check the water level twice a year and desulfate them once in a while and they'll last 5 + years.
200 Watts ÷ 12 v = 17 Amps
17Amps x 6 hrs = 100Amp hrs (Ah) .... you'd want a 200 Ah battery.
Some amps can be sensitive to voltage drop and may switch off below a threshold, so voltage drop under load should also be considered.
That would be for a fairly high listening volume with an Amp and Sub. A basic stock stereo (4 speakers) draws about 3-4 amps on average.
A car stereo shop should be able to use a clamp on DC amp meter and they could tell you how much power you draw, that would help you choose a battery setup.
I've had good luck with Costco marine and deep cycle batteries. Check the water level twice a year and desulfate them once in a while and they'll last 5 + years.
200 Watts ÷ 12 v = 17 Amps
17Amps x 6 hrs = 100Amp hrs (Ah) .... you'd want a 200 Ah battery.
Some amps can be sensitive to voltage drop and may switch, so voltage drop under load should also be considered.
That would be for a fairly high listening volume with an Amp and Sub. A basic stock stereo (4 speakers) draws about 3-4 amps on average.
A car stereo shop should be able to use a clamp on DC amp meter and they could tell you how much power you draw, that would help you choose a battery setup.
Thanks, I was messing around with numbers last night. I think my tower amp is 400W, AS10 appears to be a 500W amp. If end up upgrading the cockpit I’ll probably go with a single 6 channel 800-1000 watt amp to power the cockpit/tower and the AS10 has the built in 500w. If I go that route I might just get a lithium trolling battery.
My volume varies depending who is on the boat and where we are going. We frequent Crab Island, it gets pretty noisy out there, I’m always surprised to see boats that pre covid were worth maybe a couple grand with $5k-10k of audio. Priorities I guess.
The energy density in lithium is much higher and you can draw them down to 20%. Might be a good choice. Just be sure your charger is setup for lithium or its programable so you can set it to what the batt mfg requires. Lithium requires its own charging parameters. They are not drop in replacements for agm/lead acid. Dont charge a lithium off the engine either as our engines dont have alternators with external regulators that can be programmed.
The energy density in lithium is much higher and you can draw them down to 20%. Might be a good choice. Just be sure your charger is setup for lithium or its programable so you can set it to what the batt mfg requires. Lithium requires its own charging parameters. They are not drop in replacements for agm/lead acid. Dont charge a lithium off the engine either as our engines dont have alternators with external regulators that can be programmed.
I was going to suggest LiFoPo4 batteries...new ones have come out with on-board Battery Management System making them drop-in replacements for group 24/27/31 sizes:
From boats to yachts, look to RELiON lithium marine batteries to power all your adventures on the water. See our lithium marine batteries today!
relionbattery.com
They claim that they work with regular smart chargers and car/boat charging systems as the BMS takes care of charge levels, voltage, current, etc. Being lithium they can be run down 80% without issues compared to lead at 50%., plus they weigh half as much. Once my stock batteries start to show age (likely a few more years as I keep them maintained and rotate them each year), I plan on getting them to put in my 212s. They cost a lot more, but they last a lot longer...probably for the life of my boat.
RELion is an excellent battery. FYI The tracker Lithium's at Cabela's or Bass Pro Shops are RELiON batteries just rebranded. RELiON makes them for them, same battery and you could save at least $200 per battery. They also run coupons/discounts and sales off and on. I have two of these in my boat for my trolling motor. I paid in the $500's for each. Mine are 80Ah
I was going to suggest LiFoPo4 batteries...new ones have come out with on-board Battery Management System making them drop-in replacements for group 24/27/31 sizes:
From boats to yachts, look to RELiON lithium marine batteries to power all your adventures on the water. See our lithium marine batteries today!
relionbattery.com
They claim that they work with regular smart chargers and car/boat charging systems as the BMS takes care of charge levels, voltage, current, etc. Being lithium they can be run down 80% without issues compared to lead at 50%., plus they weigh half as much. Once my stock batteries start to show age (likely a few more years as I keep them maintained and rotate them each year), I plan on getting them to put in my 212s. They cost a lot more, but they last a lot longer...probably for the life of my boat.
Well yes they all need a bms. Some are built in and some are external. Even though they have a bms that doesnt mean you can just drop it in and go. If the charging system for the batteries is not set to the correct levels then what the bms does is just disconnect the battery to keep it from being damaged. So you will be using your battery for power then everything will just shut off until the bms resets everything. While some of the middle road battery companies like relion and battleborn have done a decent job at making them as close to drop in as possible, you still need to program your charging system to meet the mfg specs. I have been researching this stuff to no end the past few mos while working with the electrical engineer for the company building my new boat. They strictly use lithionics which is hands down the best battery systems out there. With a matching price tag of course. I really want to go lithium in the boat but at $80k for the system it has forced me to look at all the details of maybe just doing a drop in replacement with something like relion or battleborn once i take delivery of the boat. After talking with their tech support i have found out its just not quite that simple and their marketing doesnt always match what their engineers say.
