Brian Millette
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 14
- Points
- 62
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2017
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 21
I have been lurking on this board observing everyone’s ideas and experiences for the last two winters to set goals and learn about jet boats in general and Yamaha in particular as our 2017 SX210 is our first (not boat, but jet boat). In addition to the usual skiing, tubing, and kneeboarding with the grandkids and friends, we like to cruise and anchor for relaxation and we often use the boat at night.
I think I have finally reached the point where I feel worthy to post something other than a question.
So the first thing I decided was that the electrical system was inadequate for what we wanted. Starting with that, here’s what I have done to our boat. (I’m sure I will leave out some of the little ones).
Upgraded DC distribution to add hot battery buses and a selected battery bus in an electrical box in the engine compartment, a helm bus behind the panel and a port side bus in the port storage compartment. Nothing but the battery selector switch is hooked physically to the batteries.
Upgraded to a two battery system with selector and DVSR with helm indication. Added a dual voltage meter with a push button to prevent draining or having to turn on the batteries to check them.
Added a compartment light control to power them from selected battery or hot #2 battery or off.
Added lights controlled by magnetic switches (except the starboard one so using the door to block the wind is still good. It’s on a switch) to all storage compartments.
Added shelves to the big port storage compartment and hangers for vest in the starboard one. Used various methods for under seat storage control and now anyone can find anything.
Added bow docking lights.
Added 4 courtesy lights (bow step, engine step, swim deck, and port side. Added a remote control to operate them when approaching the boat at night.
Added a Lowrance HDS 9 chartplotter and sonar.
Added a recessed phone and separate recessed tablet cables (poor man’s radar) without using USB or 12V plugs originally installed.
Added a dual USB plug in the “glove box” along with a Sirius XM dock connected to the boats control so I don’t have to pay for another subscription.
Upgraded to Kicker speakers. I just did this so I will see how they sound on the water before deciding if an amp is required.
Added an AC plug on the port side to power the added dual bank charger mounted in the engine compartment along with the charger for the toy inflator battery.
Installed a float control to the bilge pump so it can be wired to the #2 battery at all times without draining the battery by constant testing while keeping the helm switch operative.
Added a higher float to active a loud alarm if the bilge pump fails or can’t keep up. It’s hot wired to the #1 battery. Also added a plug for a backup bilge pump that I somehow ended up with over the years and keep in the storage compartment.
I found the placement of the cleats (except amidships) useless for fenders. So I added Taylor fender locks just aft of the bimini support and put pegs at several lengths and put fender clips on the bow rails. Now, within seconds, even my wife can look and set up fenders for any type or height dock we run up against. Not a scratch yet.
Added Boat Buckles, LED trailer lighting, and lighted roller loading guide-ons.
Added tow valves, mostly to allow flushing the engines and winterizing. Set up a rig to be able to do both engines together and shaped a PVC pipe to be able to turn the valves without hanging upside down in the engine compartment.
Added the throttle sync. These took a while to get set properly, but it’s great for hole shots and the only way my wife will drive so I can ski.
Installed a box anchor (these are great on the river) and beefed up the anchor locker to support it. Added a folding cleat under the bow ladder for the anchor.
Added a SS shield on the bow for the trailer bumper.
Underneath, added the Thrust Vectors (an improvement, though I hoped for more but probably set my expectations to high) and Lateral Thrusters (love these as I can spin the boat within its own length).
Added 9 x 18 trim tabs (a tight fit) with the manual leveling control to balance laterally as well as fore and aft but haven’t gotten to try them yet on the water.
I thought the mod for single button engine start and stop was elegant but didn’t want the future possibility of trouble shooting the controls and relays but I HAD to eliminate that awful alarm every time we changed whoever we were towing (or recovering). So I added a single button engine stop wired directly to the ignition circuit. And I also hooked it up to the trim tab retract lead. Push the button for 1 second and the engines quit. Push it for 2 or more and the engines quit and the trim tabs retract. Keys are left on at all times and no BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP.
The only mod I still want to do is a screen around the bilge pump. I’m tired of fishing small tools and parts out of there (though a drain snake is a good way to push things out).
Anal? Maybe, but I now have a boat exactly the way I want it. Just like I made 29 mods on my motorhome and 13 to my Harley. Comments good or bad would be appreciated.
I think I have finally reached the point where I feel worthy to post something other than a question.
So the first thing I decided was that the electrical system was inadequate for what we wanted. Starting with that, here’s what I have done to our boat. (I’m sure I will leave out some of the little ones).
Upgraded DC distribution to add hot battery buses and a selected battery bus in an electrical box in the engine compartment, a helm bus behind the panel and a port side bus in the port storage compartment. Nothing but the battery selector switch is hooked physically to the batteries.
Upgraded to a two battery system with selector and DVSR with helm indication. Added a dual voltage meter with a push button to prevent draining or having to turn on the batteries to check them.
Added a compartment light control to power them from selected battery or hot #2 battery or off.
Added lights controlled by magnetic switches (except the starboard one so using the door to block the wind is still good. It’s on a switch) to all storage compartments.
Added shelves to the big port storage compartment and hangers for vest in the starboard one. Used various methods for under seat storage control and now anyone can find anything.
Added bow docking lights.
Added 4 courtesy lights (bow step, engine step, swim deck, and port side. Added a remote control to operate them when approaching the boat at night.
Added a Lowrance HDS 9 chartplotter and sonar.
Added a recessed phone and separate recessed tablet cables (poor man’s radar) without using USB or 12V plugs originally installed.
Added a dual USB plug in the “glove box” along with a Sirius XM dock connected to the boats control so I don’t have to pay for another subscription.
Upgraded to Kicker speakers. I just did this so I will see how they sound on the water before deciding if an amp is required.
Added an AC plug on the port side to power the added dual bank charger mounted in the engine compartment along with the charger for the toy inflator battery.
Installed a float control to the bilge pump so it can be wired to the #2 battery at all times without draining the battery by constant testing while keeping the helm switch operative.
Added a higher float to active a loud alarm if the bilge pump fails or can’t keep up. It’s hot wired to the #1 battery. Also added a plug for a backup bilge pump that I somehow ended up with over the years and keep in the storage compartment.
I found the placement of the cleats (except amidships) useless for fenders. So I added Taylor fender locks just aft of the bimini support and put pegs at several lengths and put fender clips on the bow rails. Now, within seconds, even my wife can look and set up fenders for any type or height dock we run up against. Not a scratch yet.
Added Boat Buckles, LED trailer lighting, and lighted roller loading guide-ons.
Added tow valves, mostly to allow flushing the engines and winterizing. Set up a rig to be able to do both engines together and shaped a PVC pipe to be able to turn the valves without hanging upside down in the engine compartment.
Added the throttle sync. These took a while to get set properly, but it’s great for hole shots and the only way my wife will drive so I can ski.
Installed a box anchor (these are great on the river) and beefed up the anchor locker to support it. Added a folding cleat under the bow ladder for the anchor.
Added a SS shield on the bow for the trailer bumper.
Underneath, added the Thrust Vectors (an improvement, though I hoped for more but probably set my expectations to high) and Lateral Thrusters (love these as I can spin the boat within its own length).
Added 9 x 18 trim tabs (a tight fit) with the manual leveling control to balance laterally as well as fore and aft but haven’t gotten to try them yet on the water.
I thought the mod for single button engine start and stop was elegant but didn’t want the future possibility of trouble shooting the controls and relays but I HAD to eliminate that awful alarm every time we changed whoever we were towing (or recovering). So I added a single button engine stop wired directly to the ignition circuit. And I also hooked it up to the trim tab retract lead. Push the button for 1 second and the engines quit. Push it for 2 or more and the engines quit and the trim tabs retract. Keys are left on at all times and no BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP.
The only mod I still want to do is a screen around the bilge pump. I’m tired of fishing small tools and parts out of there (though a drain snake is a good way to push things out).
Anal? Maybe, but I now have a boat exactly the way I want it. Just like I made 29 mods on my motorhome and 13 to my Harley. Comments good or bad would be appreciated.
