Impeller damage pictures

[ROGUE111]

I picked up a ’16 AR192 a few weeks ago and the whole family loves it. However I was pretty disappointed in the boat’s ability to get out of the hole. It really struggles getting me (6’1” 195lbs) out of the water on a competition slalom with a few adults and kids onboard. I did notice some heat soak & have an SVHO arriving today thanks to Riva Racing. When inspecting the impeller assembly there is a good size dent in a leading edge as shown. Would this cause significant hole shot performance issues?

 

[jcyamaharider]

Yes, it would. Also look over the intake and check for missing sealant. These are major causes of cavitation. I had to reseal my brand new boat because of missing silicone.

 

[swatski]

@ROGUE111 What @jcyamaharider said.
I also found several spots with missing factory sealant in a new boat...
(trying to find some pics, I was pretty disturbed by the extend of gaps left from factory, clearly w/potential for sucking air from the bilge)

Regarding the impeller - you could start by ordering a new OEM impeller and in the meantime pull the old/damaged one and see if you can file that lip - if that is the only damage - it may still be okay as a spare.

I would also highly recommend the Lucky 13 cone for your single engine boat. Those work phenomenally well for what you need, but only with the OEM impellers. With Solas and Skats you will likely always have more cavitation on hard/heavy hole shots due to their shorter blades.

Here are some pics of my tunnel gap-proofing job. Keep in mind, it does not need to look pretty, there is no evidence I know of to indicate the tunnel needs to be "blue-printed" to high shine to improve performance. But it does need to be sealed!

BTW - I use regular (not fast cure) fresh/brand new 3M 5200 inside the tunnel/transom plate/wear ring.
I also have a habit of sealing the intake grates and bolts (outside the tunnel) with silicone (black in the pics), but that is not required at all (you just need to seal the "shoe" - to prevent sucking air from inside the boat). I only cover the bolts with silicone to protect them so they don't get as cruddy if I need to take them off in the future.
(sorry about bad pics!)
Before (see how bad some of the gaps are - no sealant in some places at all!!!!):


And some smaller gaps, but can be just as bad for performance:


And after (w/great performance):





Here is the outside of intake grates (sealed w/black silicone only)



And after (that silicone strips easily if needed so this is not permanent - unlike 5200):



And here is my impeller tool - the other end with impeller holder-tool is in a large vise (no pic) - works every time (in conjunction with a 8ft cheater bar, lol), keep in mind it is a left-handed thread, so push down (in the pic) to take it off:


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[jcyamaharider]

I didn't go to the lengths that @swatski did, but I am going to after seeing his pictures. I still have a little slip and I think that going over everything will help a lot more.

 

[djetok]

@ROGUE111 What @jcyamaharider said.
I also found several spots with missing factory sealant in a new boat...
(trying to find some pics, I was pretty disturbed by the extend of gaps left from factory, clearly w/potential for sucking air from the bilge)

Regarding the impeller - you could start by ordering a new OEM impeller and in the meantime pull the old/damaged one and see if you can file that lip - if that is the only damage - it may still be okay as a spare.

I would also highly recommend the Lucky 13 cone for your single engine boat. Those work phenomenally well for what you need, but only with the OEM impellers. With Solas and Skats you will likely always have more cavitation on hard/heavy hole shots due to their shorter blades.

Here are some pics of my tunnel gap-proofing job. Keep in mind, it does not need to look pretty, there is no evidence I know of to indicate the tunnel needs to be "blue-printed" to high shine to improve performance. But it does need to be sealed!

BTW - I use regular (not fast cure) fresh/brand new 3M 5200 inside the tunnel/transom plate/wear ring.
I also have a habit of sealing the intake grates and bolts (outside the tunnel) with silicone (black in the pics), but that is not required at all (you just need to seal the "shoe" - to prevent sucking air from inside the boat). I only cover the bolts with silicone to protect them so they don't get as cruddy if I need to take them off in the future.
(sorry about bad pics!)
Before (see how bad some of the gaps are - no sealant in some places at all!!!!):
View attachment 64845
View attachment 64847
And some smaller gaps, but can be just as bad for performance:
View attachment 64848

And after (w/great performance):
View attachment 64851
View attachment 64850



Here is the outside of intake grates (sealed w/black silicone only)
View attachment 64843
View attachment 64844

And after (that silicone strips easily if needed so this is not permanent - unlike 5200):
View attachment 64852


And here is my impeller tool - the other end with impeller holder-tool is in a large vise (no pic) - works every time (in conjunction with a 8ft cheater bar, lol), keep in mind it is a left-handed thread, so push down (in the pic) to take it off:
View attachment 64853

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To do the shoe do you have to pull the impeller?

 

[jcyamaharider]

To do the shoe do you have to pull the impeller?

It would probably be better, and you can get both impellers out in 15 minutes. Super simple job.

 

[djetok]

It would probably be better, and you can get both impellers out in 15 minutes. Super simple job.

Thanks

 

[swatski]

To do the shoe do you have to pull the impeller?

In theory - no.
But I do... I find working with 5200 so miserable that I will do whatever to make it easier - pulling the pumps w/impeller and shaft as well as taking off the intake grates really helps the access, tremendously.
You will still get the damn 5200 on everything as it spreads like wild fire (so - don't wear your church cloths, lol).

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[ROGUE111]

I did notice some spots missing sealant (hard to tell in the picture). Can you spot seal the voids or do you remove all sealant and recaulk everything? Any product recommendations?

 

[ROGUE111]

Jeez, I was too slow to reply. Thank you!!

 

[swatski]

I did notice some spots missing sealant (hard to tell in the picture). Can you spot seal the voids or do you remove all sealant and recaulk everything? Any product recommendations?

View attachment 64854

Hard to tell, the clear stuff (silicone?) is most likely aftermarket/PO and best to remove it along with anything else that's loose. Problem with silicone is - even if you remove it, nothing sticks unless you actually completely remove it from the surface or sand it.
Many ways to skin a cat, but 3M 5200 seems to work fine. Some even use epoxy, which I would not want to mess with.
There are kit for skis (like this one: https://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_82_96&products_id=5346) and some racers go out of their way to true up the transom plate/wear ring transitions and all, but you only really need that if you want to go 80mph and still stick to the water (which in our boats is not an issue!).
I hate posting links to greenhulk, but here you go - this one shows Jerry sealing a pesky gap between the transom plate and the transom using 3M 5200 http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=117375&highlight=transom+plate

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[Spooling]

Regarding the lucky 13 cone. Is it pretty much plug and play?

 

[swatski]

Regarding the lucky 13 cone. Is it pretty much plug and play?

Yes, pretty much. https://jetboaters.net/threads/lucky-13-l13-anti-cavitation-cone-install-2016-ar240.12099/
The OEM grease I believe is also more widely available if you chose to stay with it, I think most dealers now carry it (the source I posted is still fine, too).

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