• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Installing second bilge pump in Yamaha SX230

Bruce

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
13,377
Reaction score
13,500
Points
857
Location
Royal, AR
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
I chose to use a Johnson UltimaBilge™ 600 bilge pump for my second bilge pump and to install at the lowest point in the boat just in front of the drain plug. I wanted an automatic pump. Johnson and Rule pumps seem to have the best reviews. All bilge pumps seem to have a number of negative reviews. I chose the Johnson because our boats already have a Rule pump. I am hoping that if anything were to prevent one of the pumps from working the other will continue to work.

Before beginning installation I tested the pump in a dry bucket. Every time I added more than 3/4" of water it was pumped out. The pump turned itself on and off correctly

I had the water box loose from changing the scupper valve. I tied the water box to the port side and worked around it.

I ran wiring from the dash area then soldered and shrink tubed the connections. I used a double layer of shrink tubing to help keep water away from the electricity.

This is the first layer. One of the wires has a piece of shrink tubing closing it off. This third wire is used to manually activate the pump. I plan to let it run automatically.

BilgeWiresShrunkIndividual.jpg

And the second which is over the top of the first.

BilgeWiresShrunkTogether.jpg

I decided to epoxy the pumps intake grate to the hull. I should be able to remove the pump in the future and replace it with the same model by separating the pump and intake grate.. If it is no longer available I will have the difficult process of removing the grate from the hull.

I vacuumed and then cleaned the hull area where I was going to install the pump with acetone.

I fully assembled the wiring and hose to the pump. I spread five minute epoxy on the bottom of the grate being careful not to drip any into the pump. Then I carefully placed the pump into its final position.

You can see part of the installed pump in this picture. The off white hose is the scupper. The bright white caulk is on the drain plug.


BilgePumpMounted.jpg

While the caulk was drying I drilled the hole for and installed the 3/4" thru hull fitting. I placed a small amount of Life Caulk between the thru hull fitting and the hull on the outside and on the last three threads. I accessed the area through the engine compartment with the plywood sidewall removed.

If I was not opening that sidewall for any other reason I would consider installing the drain near the floor drains and transducer exit. It would be more difficult to monitor there but much easier to install.

Here is a picture of the thru hull fitting installed from the inside. The clear pressure hose is connected to the new fitting.

BilgePumpThruHullInside.jpg

This is a picture from the outside.

BilgePumpThruHullOutside.jpg
 
Did you do a loop in the hose before connecting to the fitting? Or is that not necessary?
 
Did you do a loop in the hose before connecting to the fitting? Or is that not necessary?

Would the loop be used to prevent water running in through the hose? It would have to be a pretty big loop to avoid kinking the 3/4 hose.

The thru hull fittings are pretty high up. If water gets up there the boat is in real trouble.
 
@Bruce I went and checked a couple of links I had on installing a bilge pump and the second one mentions an anti siphon loop. You are correct, it is only needed if there is a danger that the hole will go underwater which as you say won't matter if the boat gets that low.
Here are the links
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/installing-bilge-pump.asp
http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2012/february/diy.asp
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/bilge-pump-warning-light.asp

And nice looking install!
 
Last edited:
diy01.jpg

Like this.
 
The Johnson pump came with a check valve. I did not install it since it reduces flow and I do not see a threat of water flowing in through the thru hull fitting. But installing it in the line would be an easier alternative to the anti siphon loop.
 
Did you do a loop in the hose before connecting to the fitting? Or is that not necessary?

The Johnson pumps come with a removable check valve too he might have used. I think it reduces capacity some however. I'll be installing my "Johnson pump" soon!


***Edit. Not fast enough! ***
 
The Johnson pumps come with a removable check valve too he might have used. I think it reduces capacity some however. I'll be installing my "Johnson pump" soon!


***Edit. Not fast enough! ***
Wondering when someone would make that joke... :winkingthumbsup"
 
@Bruce, I'm looking to do the same install this fall. I noticed you removed the engine compartment sidewall. I'm not near my boat to check that out so was wondering what is involved in removing that partition. I would also like to remove the rear partition in the rear of the starboard storage locker. Do they come out the same way?
 
@Gym, is your boat a first generation with these access hatches?
889-thickbox_default.jpg

If so I am uncertain what the plywood structures are like. In my 2007 the starboard sidewall was fairly easy to remove but to remove the port sidewall you either have to cut it or pull the engine. I removed them to gain access to the space outside of the sidewalls which is already accessible on the 2003-2006 boats via the access hatches that were omitted on the later boats.

After removing the sidewalls the rear partition was easily removed by removing screws that are likely accessible through the access hatch in the earlier model.
 
@Gym, is your boat a first generation with these access hatches?
889-thickbox_default.jpg

If so I am uncertain what the plywood structures are like. In my 2007 the starboard sidewall was fairly easy to remove but to remove the port sidewall you either have to cut it or pull the engine. I removed them to gain access to the space outside of the sidewalls which is already accessible on the 2003-2006 boats via the access hatches that were omitted on the later boats.

After removing the sidewalls the rear partition was easily removed by removing screws that are likely accessible through the access hatch in the earlier model.

@Gym, is your boat a first generation with these access hatches?
889-thickbox_default.jpg

If so I am uncertain what the plywood structures are like. In my 2007 the starboard sidewall was fairly easy to remove but to remove the port sidewall you either have to cut it or pull the engine. I removed them to gain access to the space outside of the sidewalls which is already accessible on the 2003-2006 boats via the access hatches that were omitted on the later boats.

After removing the sidewalls the rear partition was easily removed by removing screws that are likely accessible through the access hatch in the earlier model.
Yes @Bruce. I do have the access hatches. Sounds like I just need to find the screws to remove it. I hope to be doing the back up bilge pump this fall. Thanks for the help.
 
I'm installing a second bilge pump this year but I'm leaning on installing it in the engine compartment. One of these days I'm going to fill the bilge through the cleanout hatch access until it just starts to come into the engine bay, then pull the plug and see how much it holds.

If it's not much, I'll put the pump in the engine compartment so it's easier to get to.
 
It's probably too late to respond but I put mine in a week ago getting ready for Bimini and this is were I put it. I glassed it to the inner tray next to the other one. But I also replaced the factory Rule 500 w/ an 1100 gph. And added the Rule 1500 for added security. Same set up as the pictures that were added by Bruce.
 

Attachments

  • 20160222_124319.jpg
    20160222_124319.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 366
@Bruce sorry to bring back the old thread. Did you wire to same switch or a new one?
 
@Bruce sorry to bring back the old thread. Did you wire to same switch or a new one?

I wired it to a new switch.

Some owners wire directly to the battery switch so that it is always on when the battery is on.

We always turn both bilge pumps on before the boat hits the water and leave them on as long as the boat is in the water.
 
Okay thank you for the quick response. I do not a have a switch yet for the battery but will add some time this summer with a new battery and switch set up.
 
I hooked it up to the battery. And then ran a separate switch to control it manually if needed.
 
How can I get a bilge pump in the bottom of my hull I have on in the engine compartment but would like to be able to pump from the bottom of my hull
 
From where this pump is installed to where the factory one doesn't take a lot of water to make it kick on. Just follow this write up if you want to install. Though. Bruce did a great job just follow the steps here.
 
Back
Top