Installing second bilge pump in Yamaha SX230

[Speedling]

I am looking through all these threads and i am seeing a common thing overlooked or forgot to mention. A fuse!
If ran straight from the battery i highly recommend a fuse somewhere off the positive terminal for it. If the pump draws 10 amps then perhaps a 15 amp.
Some switches can act as a fuse but be sure that they are to function that way. I personally think if i do this i will wire up a new breaker to the dash. This will mean i don't need to go looking for fuses while the pump should be bailing water.

And if you think that 12 volt will short out from being in water you are wrong. I run electric brakes and leave it plugged in while backing in. Lights and brakes work just fine under water without popping a fuse. I use lights especially for night time retrieving. Your lights are most likely grounded to the trailer anyways.

In any case love the write up with pictures! Boat is in storage for now.

 

[Bruce]

I am looking through all these threads and i am seeing a common thing overlooked or forgot to mention. A fuse!

Good point, in my case there is a breaker in the switch panel that powers the secondary bilge pump.

 

[2nazt]

I agree with the fuse @Speedling I always forget some people will overlook it. It is not uncommon to have a bilge pump burnout especially the automatic ones after a few years especially if the bilge is usually filled with debris and chemicals. My factory one burned out from fuel in the bilge from a leak when I first bought it and no screen and piece of fiberglass caught in the pump. I noticed the breaker and the wife noticed the smell. The pump was hot as all get out and could of been a big problem if there was nothing to cut off the power. I knew from other posts @Bruce has his with wires to his new switch panel and breakers. I used a fuse per manufacturer spec when I installed mine.

 

[Betik]

@Bruce did you consider running the 2nd bilge pump hose right above the transom ?
Besides the aesthetics and not being able to monitor very easily, I am thinking that it will lower the length of the hose dramtically.
Anyway thoughts on this ?

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce did you consider running the 2nd bilge pump hose right above the transom ?
Besides the aesthetics and not being able to monitor very easily, I am thinking that it will lower the length of the hose dramtically.
Anyway thoughts on this ?

I have never seen it done but it would work and would be an easier installation.

 

[Betik]

That is suspicious. I am sure there is a reason why nobody has done it. I still have 3 months, so I will wait a bit longer.

 

[Bruce]

That is suspicious. I am sure there is a reason why nobody has done it. I still have 3 months, so I will wait a bit longer.

I believe everyone else thought like me, lets just put it beside the factory thru hull.

The only issue I can think of is that water will try to run into the bilge through the thru hull fitting on the swim deck as it washes over that area when you slow down. I would use a scupper thru hull fitting to prevent this. I believe some bilge pumps use check valves that would stop the water getting to the bilge. Having a check valve and a scupper on the thru hull should make this a non issue.

I removed the sidewalls of the engine compartment and use that area for batteries on the port side and a 16 gallon water tank and shower on the starboard. So it was easy for me to access the area to install the thru hull fitting for the second bilge pump. But your plan would be much easier for those with sidewalls.

 

[Jose galvez]

Hey guys hope everyone is well. Been a while since I post or say anything so here I go. I placed mine on a rocker panel with breakers I had no need for fuses. And placed next to the stock pump as a back up. Haven't had to use it. But I know it still works. I check it all the time we go out.

 

[dirksgoat]

@Bruce did you have to remove the exhaust to get the pump in the bottom of the hull??

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce did you have to remove the exhaust to get the pump in the bottom of the hull??

I disconnected the water box portion of the exhaust to make it easier to change the scupper valve and installed the bilge pump while I was in there.

I think you could install the bilge pump in the bilge while working around the water boxes. But there may not be any benefit to installing it in the bilge. Installing between the engines would be fine.

 

[dirksgoat]

Thats what i thought too. But i had replaced the scupper and drain plug on my boat. i was still getting alot of water in the bilge, around 20 gallons, for a 1hr run hooked up. so i tore into thinking it was an exhaust clamp/ loose hose. Well it wasnt.... it was the rub rail that seperates the the top and bottom portion of the hull. This amount of water was just from launching boat on steep ramp and aft deck/rub rail submerged. I found it by leaving the trailer strapped the the aft of the boat, thus giving it more weight backing in. This resembled the same effect as having several people on the aft deck, or taking water over the stern when you slow down, or steep ass ramp. The leak was not minor at all.

The Fix: Just pulled rub rail off at stern to about 3 ft on the sides where the rub rail is completely clear of the water line, siliconed two sections of fiberglass hull then siliconed screws. NO LEAKS. my concern, was on a day on the water, we have had A LOT of water coming out, especially when we are wakesurfing, etc when a lot of water comes over the deck when stopping. NONE of this water could be pumped out by the bilge pump in engine compartment. I should have done a write up on this.... @Bruce and @Julian

Bruce, whats your opinion on this,

 

[Julian]

NONE of this water could be pumped out by the bilge pump in engine compartment.

That is strange....my bilge would start pumping water out once there was 2-3 gallons in it. Interesting to hear about the rub rail leak....I recall reading about a few others who had rub rail leaks.....definitely exacerbated/excentuated by wake surfing with tons of ballast. Was the rub rail easy to remove and replace?

 

[Bruce]

I believe that @txav8r had to caulk the gap under the rub rail on his previous SX230.

 

[dirksgoat]

yeah, it was real easy to remove, "top layer" of screws held the stainless steel metal strap against the "rubber" sandwiching them to the top and bottom hull. Once the stap was away, there was a "second layer" of screws securing the rubber to the hulls. the top hull over laps the bottom. I did not replace anything, just pulled away enough to silicone.

 

[txav8r]

I saw daylight through my rub rail on my 230, but I only caulked the area around the swim deck. It didn't stop water from occasionally appearing. My own opinion is that water is normal in the bilge but not in large amounts without explanation. I am also in the call that no second bilge pump is needed unless you store your boat full time in the water. That said, the stock pump is adequate as long as the battery is charged too...imho.