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Lower Bilge Question SX240 (2011)

Messages
10
Reaction score
8
Points
12
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2011
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Evening folks,
I was reviewing the Ultimate leak thread... Thanks for putting that together by the way... At any rate, I went down the "possibility" rabbit hole, and was thinking that it would make sense to put a bilge pump in the lowest location possible. While this isn't my boat (thanks Yacht Trader) is it possible to put a bilge pump in this area? I haven't really went exploring under the hatch, but thought I would see what you all thought, or where you all may have put them on your own. While I have your attention, is there a way to seal that rub rail without taking it off? I assume a bead of caulk on top and bottom and then some clear on the screws would work, but curious on your thoughts.. probably would look a little tacky.

1759806661037.png
 
Yes you can put a bilge pump back there…here’s how I did mine. If I were to do it again I’d put the outlet in the back somewhere, and I may see about trimming the vertical part of my T mount to put the pump as low as possible in the V of the hull. Use the site search engine and you’ll find more posts about adding a bilge pump.

The best way to seal the hull where the rub rail is, is to take it off and seal behind it. Again, use the site search engine and you’ll find threads on this subject. I know some of the wake surfing guys have done this.

If you’re trying to eliminate water from your boat, sealing the clean out tray is a must, the anchor locker drain needs to be replaced. Also check out the thread below. Probably the single biggest water intrusion eliminator for these boats. If you have the older style pop in clean out plugs you’ll need a thinner O ring, I think there’s a post or two in that thread from owners that have the pop in clean out plugs you’ll.

 
Yes you can put a bilge pump back there…here’s how I did mine. If I were to do it again I’d put the outlet in the back somewhere, and I may see about trimming the vertical part of my T mount to put the pump as low as possible in the V of the hull. Use the site search engine and you’ll find more posts about adding a bilge pump.

The best way to seal the hull where the rub rail is, is to take it off and seal behind it. Again, use the site search engine and you’ll find threads on this subject. I know some of the wake surfing guys have done this.

If you’re trying to eliminate water from your boat, sealing the clean out tray is a must, the anchor locker drain needs to be replaced. Also check out the thread below. Probably the single biggest water intrusion eliminator for these boats. If you have the older style pop in clean out plugs you’ll need a thinner O ring, I think there’s a post or two in that thread from owners that have the pop in clean out plugs you’ll.

What is the pipe insulation for? I'm trying to think of reasons, but couldn't.
 
What is the pipe insulation for? I'm trying to think of reasons, but couldn't.
To help hold the mount in the V…. I like the way the aft bilge pump is mounted because I can pull it up and out to inspect it easily.
 
To help hold the mount in the V…. I like the way the aft bilge pump is mounted because I can pull it up and out to inspect it easily.
Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?
 
Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?
Ideally you would want a separate line and through hull fitting. On my prior boat (2012 SX210), I installed speakers on the swim deck, and with the speaker removed, it enabled me to reach the back of the through hull fitting to secure it and the the hose clamp.

Another alternative would be to feed the line back into the engine compartment, and then install a thru-hull fitting near where the factor bilge pumps exits.

Here is a photo of my prior boat so you can see where I installed the speakers. The thru hull was just on the other side, above the rub rail. I used a 750GPH pump with built in float along with 3/4 ID hosing.

1759854996250.png
 
Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?
Read the thread I gave you on my install…
 
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