Lower Bilge Question SX240 (2011)

[CauseTheImplications]

Evening folks,
I was reviewing the Ultimate leak thread... Thanks for putting that together by the way... At any rate, I went down the "possibility" rabbit hole, and was thinking that it would make sense to put a bilge pump in the lowest location possible. While this isn't my boat (thanks Yacht Trader) is it possible to put a bilge pump in this area? I haven't really went exploring under the hatch, but thought I would see what you all thought, or where you all may have put them on your own. While I have your attention, is there a way to seal that rub rail without taking it off? I assume a bead of caulk on top and bottom and then some clear on the screws would work, but curious on your thoughts.. probably would look a little tacky.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yes you can put a bilge pump back there…here’s how I did mine. If I were to do it again I’d put the outlet in the back somewhere, and I may see about trimming the vertical part of my T mount to put the pump as low as possible in the V of the hull. Use the site search engine and you’ll find more posts about adding a bilge pump.

Thread 'Additional Bilge pump'

Apr 11, 2022

Another thing I had wanted for some time was additional bilge pump. I had thought about the best place to mount it, next to the oem one would be convenient, but lower in the bilge would be better.

My friend suggested a simple mount that would be easy to put in and easy to remove for service. As it turns out when I tested this set up the two bilge pumps came on at the same time. The mount material is expanded pvc board.



I meant to remove the duck bill back flow preventer but forgot, I’ll be cutting that out before the next outing. The oem bilge pump did not have a...

• FSH 210 Sport
• Replies: 23
• Forum: Yamaha Center Console FSH 19x, 21x, 22x, 25x

• 

The best way to seal the hull where the rub rail is, is to take it off and seal behind it. Again, use the site search engine and you’ll find threads on this subject. I know some of the wake surfing guys have done this.

If you’re trying to eliminate water from your boat, sealing the clean out tray is a must, the anchor locker drain needs to be replaced. Also check out the thread below. Probably the single biggest water intrusion eliminator for these boats. If you have the older style pop in clean out plugs you’ll need a thinner O ring, I think there’s a post or two in that thread from owners that have the pop in clean out plugs you’ll.

Thread 'Another Clean-Out Plug Thread'

Nov 20, 2023

There has been lots of discussion about water on top of the clean-out plugs and that its fairly normal. Many people believe that water gets into the inspection port area from the swim platform when stopping, etc. and it fills the clean-out access tube.

I used to subscribe to that theory as well.... until I purchased the 275SD. The inspection access covers and clean-out ports sit pretty high up off the swim-platform. You would need to stop dead from 50mph or have a 3 foot wave come over the back of the boat to get water on top of the clean-out plugs. When I first started using the boat I...

• Judge
• Replies: 248
• Forum: General Discussion

• 
• 

 

[CauseTheImplications]

Yes you can put a bilge pump back there…here’s how I did mine. If I were to do it again I’d put the outlet in the back somewhere, and I may see about trimming the vertical part of my T mount to put the pump as low as possible in the V of the hull. Use the site search engine and you’ll find more posts about adding a bilge pump.

Thread 'Additional Bilge pump'

Apr 11, 2022

Another thing I had wanted for some time was additional bilge pump. I had thought about the best place to mount it, next to the oem one would be convenient, but lower in the bilge would be better.

My friend suggested a simple mount that would be easy to put in and easy to remove for service. As it turns out when I tested this set up the two bilge pumps came on at the same time. The mount material is expanded pvc board.



I meant to remove the duck bill back flow preventer but forgot, I’ll be cutting that out before the next outing. The oem bilge pump did not have a...

• FSH 210 Sport
• Replies: 23
• Forum: Yamaha Center Console FSH 19x, 21x, 22x, 25x

• 

The best way to seal the hull where the rub rail is, is to take it off and seal behind it. Again, use the site search engine and you’ll find threads on this subject. I know some of the wake surfing guys have done this.

If you’re trying to eliminate water from your boat, sealing the clean out tray is a must, the anchor locker drain needs to be replaced. Also check out the thread below. Probably the single biggest water intrusion eliminator for these boats. If you have the older style pop in clean out plugs you’ll need a thinner O ring, I think there’s a post or two in that thread from owners that have the pop in clean out plugs you’ll.

Thread 'Another Clean-Out Plug Thread'

Nov 20, 2023

There has been lots of discussion about water on top of the clean-out plugs and that its fairly normal. Many people believe that water gets into the inspection port area from the swim platform when stopping, etc. and it fills the clean-out access tube.

I used to subscribe to that theory as well.... until I purchased the 275SD. The inspection access covers and clean-out ports sit pretty high up off the swim-platform. You would need to stop dead from 50mph or have a 3 foot wave come over the back of the boat to get water on top of the clean-out plugs. When I first started using the boat I...

• Judge
• Replies: 248
• Forum: General Discussion

• 
• 

What is the pipe insulation for? I'm trying to think of reasons, but couldn't.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

What is the pipe insulation for? I'm trying to think of reasons, but couldn't.

To help hold the mount in the V…. I like the way the aft bilge pump is mounted because I can pull it up and out to inspect it easily.

 

[CauseTheImplications]

To help hold the mount in the V…. I like the way the aft bilge pump is mounted because I can pull it up and out to inspect it easily.

Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?

 

[VitaminSea]

Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?

Ideally you would want a separate line and through hull fitting. On my prior boat (2012 SX210), I installed speakers on the swim deck, and with the speaker removed, it enabled me to reach the back of the through hull fitting to secure it and the the hose clamp.

Another alternative would be to feed the line back into the engine compartment, and then install a thru-hull fitting near where the factor bilge pumps exits.

Here is a photo of my prior boat so you can see where I installed the speakers. The thru hull was just on the other side, above the rub rail. I used a 750GPH pump with built in float along with 3/4 ID hosing.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Ahh so that sits down in that area I highlighted in the original post, and you are hoping to lower it by shortening the length of the vertical riser. Got it. Where did you run your pump's hose? Y Fitting and one way valves out the existing?

Read the thread I gave you on my install…