Issue with the surge breaks

[Joe Hellaby]

So I've been having some issues with the surge breaks on my shoreland'r trailer this season. The trailer that came with my 16' 192. At first I thought it was an electrical issue, I ended up installing a new 7 pin connector, and tested all the electrical outputs. Everything working fine.
The issue is that the surge break does not want to disengage to back up, and this only happens on long trips. If I hook up the trailer, and drive around town for a few miles, everything works fine, the surge disengages and I can back up no problem.
When I get home from a long trip, I can't even put the pin in the slot to turn off the brakes manually. I have to unhook the trailer from the ball, then I watch the nose of the trailer release pressure, then I can get the pin in to manually turn off breaks.
I feel like it's a mechanical issue, that the surge break controller is corroded and keeps sticking.
Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

[Sbrown]

Might want to check the reversing solenoid if everything else works except backing up. Need a good strong signal in reverse from the vehicle through the blue wire. You should be able to hear the solenoid click when you take the tow vehicle in and out of reverse.

 

[tdonoughue]

My bet is that you need a new master cylinder. I agree with @Sbrown you should start checking the solenoid. But if the spring on the front of the master cylinder is gummed up, it is probably because the seal on the front has failed. That may cause the piston to not retract and continue to activate the brakes. When the solenoid engages, the system is still under pressure and the brakes are still applied.

After you check the solenoid, see if you can see in the front of the master cylinder (which is the thingy into which you put the brake fluid). Might need a mirror or to look from below. See if it is all gooped up.

 

[Ronnie]

My guess something is wrong with the connection of the brake / blue lead or the solenoid has gone bad. If the lead gets power when you put the tow vehicle in reverse you can discard it as the cause of your problem. Another way to address this I a lot less complex. Put chalks in front of the trailers front wheels and use the tow vehicle to disengage the surge brakes so that you can fit/tape a "D" key in place to manually/mechanically disable the surge brake from engaging. I've been doing this for years now as I gave up trying to identify and "fix" the electrical problem behind it all. I need to disengage the brakes to back my boat into my side driveway which has a slight grade. I also have to do this when I back into ramps that start with an incline. It's not hard or time consuming once you get the hang of it.

 

[Joe Hellaby]

Thank you guys for the feedback.

So I almost didn't post this because of embarrassment, but maybe something like this will happen to someone else and this will save them a lot of time.

I messed with the trailer all week, I never bother checking the outputs from my truck, because it's a new truck and a figured it couldn't be that. Well I had a blown fuse for my trailer reverse lights.
I must have just been lucky and the break didn't engage much when I drove it around my block and everything seemed to work fine a week or two ago, as I stated in my original post

 

[Beachbummer]

This would have affected your reverse lock out only, so it makes perfect sense a problem was not apparent while towing.

Glad you found it, and I very much appreciate you sharing this for everyone else's benefit.

 

[Hawksr30]

Thanks for posting. Having the same issue with my new 2017. Checkin the fuse when I get home.