Managing Master Volume and/or Tower Volume via Aftermarket Stereo

[ralphsmithiii]

Yep, it's me again.

I'm trying to wrap my head around how everyone is managing their volume control when tying in an aftermarket stereo system. Specifically, how are you guys/and gals managing towers, versus cabin, versus sub specifically when parked and out back in the water. The key piece I'm missing is how do you or maybe you simple don't use the transom deck volume control to turn things up or down. Because I have zero experience with towers speakers yet that's what I'm trying to figure out. The two ways Odin and I have looked at building out my next stage of upgrades (towers plus room for one more 10" sub) is to either use JL line drivers (knobs) to control the towers and subs (but then, what about the cabin speakers?) or use a WS-420SQ or BT.

I think I understand it now but wanted to get some real world feedback.

So, if I went the 420-BT route, would that mean that I would bypass the headunit all together 100%, stream directly to the WS-420BT, use it to adjust the zones (towers, cabins, sub) and call it a day? But, I'd lose the ability to adjust the volume at the transom. How practical or big of a deal is that?

Or, if I got with the two line drivers (knob for towers and subs) then how would I turn the cabin down without turning the towers down? I don't think I can. If I'm parked at a sand bar I'm assuming I'd want to cut the cabin and probably the subs and let the towers play since nobody will be in the boat. That should also save some battery and system drain unless its normal to have the entire system cranked when you're sitting in the water behind the boat and have tower speakers as well.

I'm 99% ready to make the purchase, get the second amp and towers coming my way but it's been a slow and somewhat challenging process communicating via email, probably more so because of the amount of questions and scenario's I've come up with. I'd like to get this nailed down so I can to the upgrading itself!

Update: The way we've have it currently designed and I missed this bit, was to connect the system to both sets of RCA's on the Connext, then when I wanted to park at a sand bar, fade to rear thus cutting the cabin speakers then use the bass knob to cut the subs if wanted and thus leaving the towers on.

Still looking for some input on that route versus WS-420BT.

 

[Drift Away]

Yep, it's me again.

I'm trying to wrap my head around how everyone is managing their volume control when tying in an aftermarket stereo system. Specifically, how are you guys/and gals managing towers, versus cabin, versus sub specifically when parked and out back in the water. The key piece I'm missing is how do you or maybe you simple don't use the transom deck volume control to turn things up or down. Because I have zero experience with towers speakers yet that's what I'm trying to figure out. The two ways Odin and I have looked at building out my next stage of upgrades (towers plus room for one more 10" sub) is to either use JL line drivers (knobs) to control the towers and subs (but then, what about the cabin speakers?) or use a WS-420SQ or BT.

I think I understand it now but wanted to get some real world feedback.

So, if I went the 420-BT route, would that mean that I would bypass the headunit all together 100%, stream directly to the WS-420BT, use it to adjust the zones (towers, cabins, sub) and call it a day? But, I'd lose the ability to adjust the volume at the transom. How practical or big of a deal is that?

Or, if I got with the two line drivers (knob for towers and subs) then how would I turn the cabin down without turning the towers down? I don't think I can. If I'm parked at a sand bar I'm assuming I'd want to cut the cabin and probably the subs and let the towers play since nobody will be in the boat. That should also save some battery and system drain unless its normal to have the entire system cranked when you're sitting in the water behind the boat and have tower speakers as well.

I'm 99% ready to make the purchase, get the second amp and towers coming my way but it's been a slow and somewhat challenging process communicating via email, probably more so because of the amount of questions and scenario's I've come up with. I'd like to get this nailed down so I can to the upgrading itself!

Update: The way we've have it currently designed and I missed this bit, was to connect the system to both sets of RCA's on the Connext, then when I wanted to park at a sand bar, fade to rear thus cutting the cabin speakers then use the bass knob to cut the subs if wanted and thus leaving the towers on.

Still looking for some input on that route versus WS-420BT.

To manage volume from each set of speakers comes down to the gains on the amp. Some might need to be a little "hotter" than others. Example: My front speakers and my mid cabin speakers Are set to a lower gain then my swim deck speakers and my front anchor locker speakers. Its helps from pushing the amp to hard, keeping it cool, and helps balance out the sounds while keeping it clean and clear. It comes down to tunning.

 

[Meetball]

I have the ws420bt, I dont think you really need the bt as it bypasses the head unit, 99% of the time I use standard aux cord plugged into the old stock sony headunit in my 212x. I set the ws420 to max volume I want for all areas and use the back remote while in water to change volume. I know that my head unit starts clipping at 28 so I watch the head unit from the back while adjusting volume to make sure I dont bypass my max setting. Even when I do I can clearly hear the distortion so I back down to 27.

 

[ralphsmithiii]

I have the ws420bt, I dont think you really need the bt as it bypasses the head unit, 99% of the time I use standard aux cord plugged into the old stock sony headunit in my 212x. I set the ws420 to max volume I want for all areas and use the back remote while in water to change volume. I know that my head unit starts clipping at 28 so I watch the head unit from the back while adjusting volume to make sure I dont bypass my max setting. Even when I do I can clearly hear the distortion so I back down to 27.

@Meetball
Ok cool that helps a ton. I started with using the usb port when I first got the boat the having bt is one less thing to worry about although usually you get a better sound with a cabled connection unless you're using a new standard or wifi.

With that how much "tuning" did you do via the 420 after you set the frequencies on your amp(s)? Was it a "wow" difference in sound tuning the mids/high /subs using the analog knobs?

 

[John Mcpartland]

I have all my cabins speakers on 1 amp, and the 2 tower, soundbar and sub on a 2nd amp. I use the fader on the conext (front for cabin and rear for tower)

 

[ralphsmithiii]

I have all my cabins speakers on 1 amp, and the 2 tower, soundbar and sub on a 2nd amp. I use the fader on the conext (front for cabin and rear for tower)

I'd like to do that but I'm splitting the 2 subs into 2 amps so as to now have to buy a 3rd amp. One amp is going to power cabin and 1 sub and the other towers and the other sub, when I decide to add it in.

 

[Mainah]

Lots of ways to tackle this. I will start with the riskiest way. Turn the amp remote volume knobs to 1/2 to 3/4 of full then tune the amp gains to just below clipping. The risk is forgetting to turn down the knobs. Other options are fader as @John Mcpartland mentioned or WS420/similar.

We are usually in/on or just behind the boat when we hang out so my normal leveling works out just fine but if I want the towers and sub louder I can open the helm door and quickly adjust my DSP. I would not recommend the DSP I got to anyone who is not familiar with tracing and eliminating power line noise. Disassembly of the DSP and masking of key board components was needed in order to conformal coat as well.

 

[octavio3311]

I use 3 PAC LC1’s - line drivers.
1 for the sub, 2nd for the in cabins and 3rd for the tower. I think they’re $10 each.
I removed the knobs from the housing and just mounted the knobs to the dash. I don’t have a pic at the moment.
They’ve proven to be very handy.

 

[octavio3311]

Found a pic afterall.

 

[J-RAD]

He's a bit of an explanation of my last expansion. Separate amps for both the 4 tower speakers and the sub. Each with separate volume controls on the dash. Very simple to control.

Links to amps, volume control knobs are in the post.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-official-what-did-you-do-to-your-jet-boat-today-thread.2661/post-304862

 

[ralphsmithiii]

He's a bit of an explanation of my last expansion. Separate amps for both the 4 tower speakers and the sub. Each with separate volume controls on the dash. Very simple to control.

Links to amps, volume control knobs are in the post.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-official-what-did-you-do-to-your-jet-boat-today-thread.2661/post-304862

I'll be using an M800/8 and M600/6 to accomplish the same goal and thus two knobs instead of three. I totally used your mid cabin pic as my reference when cutting my holes for the MX650's =).

 

[J-RAD]

I'll be using an M800/8 and M600/6 to accomplish the same goal and thus two knobs instead of three. I totally used your mid cabin pic as my reference when cutting my holes for the MX650's =).

That's cool, I'm glad my pics were off some value. I think I used @Julian 's pics for reference.

Similar to your plan I used 2 knobs but, it worked out that each knob controls the volume of everything on the amp. Technically, I guess the knobs work as faders, because the master volume on the conext/head unit still controls the output of the system as a whole, while the remote knobs just dial it in from there. There may be a way to isolate channels using the same remotes...? I'd have to defer to the other more knowledgeable guys for that. If not, then you're going to have to go with the inline options others have suggested.