Mishaps and adventures picking up my jet boat

[CoastalBoater]

This is the VIN plate from my trailer if any could find useful. It seems to say adjustable 23-24.

 

[Troy JK]

Thanks to all for your assistance.



@Troy JK great tip on the locktite. I may still be tempted to strap it or cable it for towing. What is the purpose of the knob? Why not just have it bolted on?

Just so I am clear you are talking about the trailer axle and not the bimini frame hinges right? The trailer has torsion spring axles. I guess could be bent as well.

Thanks for sending the pic to compare. Also noticed your tow vehicle. Does your Tahoe have the trailering package with 3.42 rear end?









The trailer is a 2019 Phoenix Trailers Aluminum SB23-52TTB. As near as I can tell it is for a 23-24 foot boat. Puzzling as it does not look right. I agree the boat and axles need to go forward.



I will get the tongue weight checked and adjusted. I did not manage to check the date codes on the tires. (now gone)



It is a 2019 so hopefully can get some more life out of them.



Thanks.

The knob on the top can be screwed into two different spots to change position of top. Look at the bracket where it threads into, It pivots.

The Tahoe had a 5.3 and tow package but it’s gone, not sure about the gears. It did an okay job but the 4x4 diesel does better.

Moving the axles forward will reduce tongue weight. Low tongue weight is dangerous.

 

[CoastalBoater]

The knob on the top can be screwed into two different spots to change position of top. Look at the bracket where it threads into, It pivots.

The Tahoe is gone. It did an okay job but the 4x4 diesel does better.

Moving the axles forward will reduce tongue weight. Low tongue weight is dangerous.

Thanks for the reply! I did not notice about the pin to pivot. I had read the height was adjustable but I think this one is stuck in that position and does not rotate. I will free it up.

I realize the tongue weight is important. I was thinking moving the boat farther forward than the axles to give a net increase in the tongue weight. I think just shortening the tongue should also increase the weight on the hitch. Have a look at this pre-purchase image I took that shows the stern on the trailer better. The trailer frame stops at about the end of the Yamaha lettering and the bunks stop a foot or so from the transom. In setting up bunks I thought that ideally the bunk should go to the end of the transom or a little past to carry the load properly and not stress the hull. I will try to get out during the daytime and take some measurements also.

 

[Troy JK]

Thanks for the reply! I did not notice about the pin to pivot. I had read the height was adjustable but I think this one is stuck in that position and does not rotate. I will free it up.

I realize the tongue weight is important. I was thinking moving the boat farther forward than the axles to give a net increase in the tongue weight. I think just shortening the tongue should also increase the weight on the hitch. Have a look at this pre-purchase image I took that shows the stern on the trailer better. The trailer frame stops at about the end of the Yamaha lettering and the bunks stop a foot or so from the transom. In setting up bunks I thought that ideally the bunk should go to the end of the transom or a little past to carry the load properly and not stress the hull. I will try to get out during the daytime and take some measurements also.


View attachment 145560

I have a different trailer so the boards probably won’t match up. The important part is the location of the axles, bow to stern, to get the right tongue weight. Then move the boards if necessary.

Just measured it. From the back rub rail to the middle of rear axle is 7’ 2”.

 

[tkeru408]

FWIW, here are a couple photos of mine I already had on my phone that show the relative spacing between the back of the boat, the back of the trailer, and the axles. My boat sits further forward on the trailers than yours does currently and the axles are also further forward on the trailer.

 

[CoastalBoater]

I have a different trailer so the boards probably won’t match up. The important part is the location of the axles, bow to stern, to get the right tongue weight. Then move the boards if necessary.

Just measured it. From the back rub rail to the middle of rear axle is 7’ 2”.

@Troy JK Thanks for measuring it. I went out and measured mine and from the center of the rear axle to the aft rub rail at the swim deck ladder is 67.5 inches or 5' 7 1/2". That would indicate that your boat it is sitting a foot and a half more aft of mine? Just does not look that way.

 

[CoastalBoater]

FWIW, here are a couple photos of mine I already had on my phone that show the relative spacing between the back of the boat, the back of the trailer, and the axles. My boat sits further forward on the trailers than yours does currently and the axles are also further forward on the trailer.

@tkeru408 Thanks for the reply. I agree that the most important would be the location of the axles with respect to the boat. As it is supposed to be tongue heavy I would think that the location of the front axle to the boat may be the key. I do think that the bunks should support the boat and transom as well.

 

[Troy JK]

@Troy JK Thanks for measuring it. I went out and measured mine and from the center of the rear axle to the aft rub rail at the swim deck ladder is 67.5 inches or 5' 7 1/2". That would indicate that your boat it is sitting a foot and a half more aft of mine? Just does not look that way.

I think your boat appears to be sitting further back because your trailer frame only extends about 1’ past the rear axle. Compare the pics of the galvanized trailers to yours. My father in law has an aluminum I-beam and it looks just like yours. I don’t care for the boards not reaching the transom either, but that’s common on aluminum trailers.