utahrd
Jetboaters Lieutenant
- Messages
- 90
- Reaction score
- 121
- Points
- 152
- Location
- holladay, utah
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2007
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
There has been some interest in the board on learning more about motorhomes. I will kick off this thread with a general overview and some food for thought.
First, you have to understand my knowledge base: I have owned tents, tent trailers, bumper pull hardwalls, and finally a motorhome. My inlaws also have a sprinter-chassis style motorhome that I am very familiar with. Like my boat, I spend extensive time making little mods here and there to adapt these RV's to our specific needs. Since each person has a particular need, and style of "camping" or "glamping" What works for me may not work for you. Anyways, here are some general insights not necessarily found in the literature.
What Type of Motorhome is right for you?
Motorhomes are basically broken up into three categories: Class A (the bus looking style), Class B (van conversions, and Class C (the cab over truck design commonly seen with the CruiseAmerica brand). Sometimes these lines get a little blurry, because there are hybrid style products.
Some of the initial questions you need to ask yourself to help you decide: Again, these are my OPINIONS, feel free to offer yours!
I will plan to add a lot more content to this original post as more time becomes available. For now, I need to get something out there so MEL @txav8r can negotiate a good deal!
p.s., I store my rig outside year round, covered in winter, paint looks great after 3-4 years. Put REJEX and forget about it.
p.p.s I love what I have…. I think a 32-35 foot motorhome in a Class A chassis is the best no compromise rig for most people. try to get at least 70 gallons fresh and 50 gallons greywater if you drycamp.
Lots more coming when I have time…
First, you have to understand my knowledge base: I have owned tents, tent trailers, bumper pull hardwalls, and finally a motorhome. My inlaws also have a sprinter-chassis style motorhome that I am very familiar with. Like my boat, I spend extensive time making little mods here and there to adapt these RV's to our specific needs. Since each person has a particular need, and style of "camping" or "glamping" What works for me may not work for you. Anyways, here are some general insights not necessarily found in the literature.
What Type of Motorhome is right for you?
Motorhomes are basically broken up into three categories: Class A (the bus looking style), Class B (van conversions, and Class C (the cab over truck design commonly seen with the CruiseAmerica brand). Sometimes these lines get a little blurry, because there are hybrid style products.
Some of the initial questions you need to ask yourself to help you decide: Again, these are my OPINIONS, feel free to offer yours!
- How many people will be living in the motorhome
- if only 2 persons 24 feet and longer will be minimally sufficient
- if 4 persons 31 feet and longer is much more comfortable
- Do you plan on staying in State and National Parks routinely?
- if not, you have no length restrictions and you won't care about water and power and sewer capacity
- Like National Parks? if you want to stay in the park, MANY parks have a restriction of <35 feet.
- Are you interested in "Dry Camping" (no water, sewer, or electrical external hookups)
- This is the biggest issue new campers don't understand. If you like camping where there are no external power,water, or sewer resources, than the holding tank capacities of your rig MATTER A LOT. From my own experience, a couple with 2 kids will blow through 40 gallons of fresh water in 3 or 4 days. A toilet with a 20 gallon black capacity will fill in about the same time, and a grewater tank of 30-40 gallons will also fill in about 4 days. This assumes miserly dish washing, normal bathroom habits, normal eating habits, and each person taking a "Navy Shower" each 3 days. You can assume about a 20 amphour depletion daily. Stated differently, a group 24 or 27 deep cycle house battery will be pretty drained in 3-4 days (depends on a lot of things). Your onboard generator can supply all your power needs, but many campgrounds have limited generator hours due to the noise.
- Class A motorhomes, in general, have MUCH BIGGER WATER AND SEWER holding capacities. in my Vista, I have 80 gallons of fresh, 40 or so gallons of black, and 50 gallons of grey. I get low on everything in about 6-7 days with my family of 4.
- A lot ofpeople don't realize you will have no AC power unless you run on generator. This is standard equipment in motorhomes, but remember, you may only be allowed to run the generator at inconvenient times according to the campground rules. You can also get AC power off of your batteries with an inverter. These are not standard equipment in Class C's, but are standard in Class A's. I view an inverter of at least 1000 W A MUST HAVE IF YOU DRYCAMP
- I solve my power problems by putting solar panels on the roof, which feed into a 4 golf cart battery system, and a 1000 watt inverter to give me AC power. If you don't have a built in inverter, you will need one. Cost to get a decent solar setup with enough panels, charge controller, and battery capacity will run you about 800 bucks.
- What is a typical trip duration for you/family
- If you go out for 3 days at a time, all these power and water capacities are inconsequential.
- If you like to do extended trips, like a week or more, you need to seriously consider the storage capacity of your motorhome for your “stuff”
- Class A motorhomes have SIGNIFICANTLY more storage capacity than a class C. People in Class C often complain that they don’t have enough storage. In addition, the SPRINTER CHASSIS units (learn more below) have VERY LIMITED storage. My inlaws own this type of chassis and basically regret buying it and are now shopping for larger class A units
- How much can you spend?
- A brand new Class C or A entry level GAS coach is between $80,000 and $120,000. Lots of great lightly used ones around for $45,000
- Once you reach the destination, will you stay put or need to be able to tour?
- Having a car at the destination is extremely helpful if you have a large rig (like over 27 feet. You will either need to rent a car or Tow a car behind the motorhome. This can be a whole separate topic. Many cars are not equipped to flat tow behind a motorhome from the factory. You also need to consider the tow capacity of your motorhome, etc. More on this when I have more time to post. If you have a small Class C or a Sprinter Chassis Motorhome, you will probably just use the motorhome. This kindof sucks, because these types of rigs usually don’t have an autoleveling system, which is an extremely nice feature when you are parking to camp. Almost all Class A motorhomeson non-sprinter chassis have autolevel which means you arrive at your camp, press a button, and you are literally done. In a class C, you will spend the next 20 minutes leveling your coach…
- What are the weights you need to tow?
- Ford v10 Gas engines with Ford Chassis are usually rated to tow 5000 lbs
- Sprinter Chassis rated at 3500 to 5500, but always underpowered
- CAT and Cummins Diesel Pushers: 10,000 lbs or more. Big premium on cost for diesel pusher motorhomes. Chassis length almost always 38 feet or greater
- Do you care about gas mileage
- If yes, don’t buy a motorhome
I will plan to add a lot more content to this original post as more time becomes available. For now, I need to get something out there so MEL @txav8r can negotiate a good deal!
p.s., I store my rig outside year round, covered in winter, paint looks great after 3-4 years. Put REJEX and forget about it.
p.p.s I love what I have…. I think a 32-35 foot motorhome in a Class A chassis is the best no compromise rig for most people. try to get at least 70 gallons fresh and 50 gallons greywater if you drycamp.
Lots more coming when I have time…
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