New 165 ID with reverse bucket problem

[Luc Lafreniere]

Glad you made some progress on the bucket issue. Too bad it's that hard to move the cable on yours.

As for porpoising, yes.... the problem with shorter boats... especially this one. I purchased Nauticus trim tabs... had to McGyver the parts from two different sets after speaking with the company. I got them installed and have been using them for the past 5-6 outings. I'm adjusting the pressure each time to try and find the optimal pressure to avoid porpoising. Have yet to remove it entirely but did improve it. I'm about to set it to the highest pressure this upcoming weekend to see how it behaves. Once I've tested it all thoroughly, I'm planning on writing a quick review of the results, parts, etc. If someone wants to try.

As for the nozzle angle, I had mine pointing down (i.e. causing the bow to go down deeper in the water) for 3 seasons. I switched it back to the default up position this spring. I've noticed no difference in top speed at all. So I don't think that's what's causing speed differences in this case. But I've been wrong before... lol

 

[Torkrench]

Interesting, in the down position I noticed the top speed dropped like 2mph, not too much but the launch suffered. It just cavitated more than it does in the up position. That's at sea level though, I feel like it would have been different at the higher elevation. I wonder if the difference is the 250hp vs 150hp.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

or my trim tabs? But it was the same top speed with and without tabs. So not sure...

 

[Torkrench]

I have the 250hp, and at sea level if I go full throttle from a stop at sea level, the engine goes to like 7200rpm, cavitates a little bit and then bites and gets to full speed. at the higher elevations with the reduced engine power it goes to about 6000rpm and then as the boats gains speed it will eventually hit max rpm. No cavitation at all at the higher elevation. That makes me think that with the trim in the down position and the full power at sea level the jet just pulls more water than is available in that configuration. the 150hp might not have that issue.

Top speed in all trim positions isn't really affected that much. Maybe 2mph, but I can affect it that much with weight positioning inside the boat.

 

[Fastjew]

Been waiting for parts to come in for my dealer to address this bucket position/latching and missing hardware issue. They stated they could not just replace a missing screw and had to order the latch/screws as a set...that was 5 weeks ago. With the help of the info here and other areas I took it apart myself and found out the screws are just 10-24 x 1/2" stainless you can get at any Home Depot This boat is a crazy mix of metric and imperial threads...

Got my bucket adjusted so I hear that nice clunk when lever is pushed fully forward. Had to adjust at the back and at the controls to get enough forward travel on the bucket, but it works!!

Thanks for all the help on this thread!

 

[Winerocks]

Wow! Glad you got it fixed. Doesn’t get much cheaper than a small stainless bolt.

 

[BuckInNC]

I have a somewhat related issue with my 255 Open Id. The iNR has to be adjusted to full reverse, -15, and then I still have a slight creep forward. So, I think the buckets are not going as far down as they should. I am ready to put a few turns on the adjustment nut as described earlier in the thread. But, is there a measurement or gauge or something to use to set it in the proper location/tilt? If not, I guess it will have to be trial and error; put a couple of turns in, try it out, repeat as necessary. Just hoping for some kind of reference point.

Thanks a lot.

BuckInNC

 

[Winerocks]

Because you have to go full -15 and still creep forward, you should be fine with a 2-3 turns.

 

[BuckInNC]

Thanks a lot. Just what I need. Doing this on the lift in a kayak and want to minimize the number of times I have to remove parts and risk dropping them in the water.

 

[BuckInNC]

Trying to do the adjustment today and cannot get the adjustment nut up out of the holder/bushing/whatever to be able to turn it. Cotter pin out, cap/cover removed, nut and washed removed from the end and free of the lever, all just like the photos. But, I thought that the adjustment nut would then just lift up, give it a few turns and then back together. Before I apply some force to getting it up to adjust I thought it would be wise to see if there is something more I need to be doing. It may just be stuck and that is all I need to do.

Thanks a lot for any suggestions about how to proceed.

BuckInNC

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

That's all. Nothing else to do. It definitely comes straight up at that point.

 

[BuckInNC]

So, it's CRC-66, pliers, FH screwdriver and problem solved.

Thanks a lot. We're on it.

BuckInNC

 

[Torkrench]

So, it's CRC-66, pliers, FH screwdriver and problem solved.

Thanks a lot. We're on it.

BuckInNC

I'll be curious if you were able to get the cable to slide through the nut that seals the passthrough on the transom. I'm too worried about damaging the cable to use any more force than I have already. I haven't been able to get mine to move.

 

[BuckInNC]

Finally got it all to come together. We put a little CRC-66 on the cable and were able to jiggle it through the nut without a lot of problems. But, my problem was different than most. We did not have enough reverse so we had to turn the nut clockwise to lengthen the throw and then feed the cable back into the boat, not pull more out.

Very very grateful for all the assistance and suggestions here. Without which we would be two hours to the dealer, two weeks in the shop, two hours back and just hope they got it fixed. Using ideas and information here we went from -15 and still forward creep in neutral to 0 offset and stationary. Put 3 turns on as suggested and it was exactly right.

Can't thank you all enough for the support. Hope that I can someday return the favor.

BuckInNC - out

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Awesome to hear! Enjoy!

 

[BuckInNC]

Not obvious in my posts about this issue is how it came about in the first place. I would be remiss if I failed to set the record straight.

The boat went to the dealer for the winter for the 20 hour service and to have some other "new boat" issues attended to. One of those issues required a part from Scarab. Well the plant is in Michigan and the governor closed it down and so no part. I suspect that the dealer applied some kind of "fix" in lieu of. Anyhow, got the boat back and prior to launch I put on some Cobra Jet fins. And it was at that time the issue with the iNR became apparent. So, believing is was related to the new fins, I reached out to Jeff, he asked for some pictures of the install and thereafter suggested that the buckets were not down enough when in reverse. I then came here looking for a fix, and the rest is as described.

So a big shout out to Jeff and Cobra Jet for the assistance. He got me pointed in the right direction and saved me a lengthy shutdown back at the dealer. Not sure that Scarab is even open yet. And I have no idea how the buckets came to be set too high.

Fins work great, iNR now works great and thanks to Jeff for going above and beyond.

BuckInNC - out

 

[Mweberohio]

I

I'm asking cause it turns out mine was missing.

I know this is an old post but I have a new issue on my 195ID 2019. I think I am missing this lever myself. I have the steel plate but no lever. Got the boat out for the first time this year yesterday and got a Reverse Error Module code of U0410. Only could go in reverse and not very well. Do you have a part number? And did you re install it yourself?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I've been talking to Matt on Facebook. But for others reading this... this part was deemed no longer necessary by BRP. It's no longer included on newer boats by choice.

 

[BuckInNC]

Been there.

Description:E-REVERSE ERROR IS COMING UP ON THE SCREEN.
Resolution:RELAY FOR 12V BUS BAR WAS SHORTING. REPLACED RELAY AND HAD NO OTHER ISSUES.

Dealer replaced part [HASH=110]#:[/HASH] 515176774, RELAY, 30 AMP - $14.49 and $72 in labor. I have no idea where the relay is or how it came to $72 to diagnose and replace. But fixed it. This on my 2019 255 Open Id.

Hope in helps.

BuckInNC

 

[Dean P]

Everyone should have these relays on their boat (min 2 spares). I remember writing how my boat would not start and I was getting an e-reverse error message. I ended up replacing a relay and she started right up. These things are worth their weight in Gold.