No Wake Mode <won't engage-adjust throttle stop screw>

[Marvin willis]

The law states your suppose to drive the slowest speed possible while maintaining control so some ppl drive faster than others. I’m doing 5000 rpms just so I don’t get run over by everyone.

 

[Rigoberto Moreno]

I get that part, but still my feels like going super slow and when I try to set alease just a 1/2 mike per hrs faster, not sure if it supposed to do a one engine or both engene supposed to be at the same RPM at all times.


Thanks

 

[Marvin willis]

Are you boating in fresh or salt water? I mostly boat in the ocean and it feels like I’m barely moving but in a lake with no current it feels fast at idle.

 

[Rigoberto Moreno]

this boating in a fresh water in a lake, it feel like just barely moving.

 

[Marvin willis]

What rpms are you running?

 

[Scottintexas]

@Rigoberto Moreno
As marvin asked above we need to know what rpms are at neutral setting and when no wake is engaged,

 

[tdogg]

So after installing Perfect pass in my AR230HO (2-3 yrs ago?), I had this issue crop up with the no wake not staying active. It was intermittent at first but lately it was not working at all. So just prior to launching at Powell I pulled up this thread and refreshed my memory on what to do and after launching popped the airbox off and adjusted the torx with pliers slightly. I actually adjusted both port and starboard to match the RPM's. It worked every time this trip! Many thanks for the simple fix for this issue!

Cheers,
Toby

 

[PaulyB]

This forum is awesome, Ive had a few jet boats before, but never this problem. It works like a charm now after adjusting the stop.

 

[Georgebanos]

just sharing...hope this helps with no wake problems.

"I have had intermittent no wake mode issues for the last three years on my 2006 AR230 HO and I know a lot of other people have had similar issues with varying results of troubleshooting. The starboard engine has been working but for the last full year my port engine no wake mode would not work at all so today i dove in to try and fix it.
The steps I took:
Charged both batteries... didn't work.
Changed the spark plugs..... didn't work.
Swapped the switches to see if one switch was bad..... didn't work.
Swapped by-pass valve motors (circled in upper right corner below) between engines.... didn't work
Adjusted throttle screw circled in the center of the below picture.... GREAT SUCCESS!
I believe it is the throttle stop screw. I rotated it less than a quarter turn in the counter-clockwise direction and now my no-wake mode engages like a champion. If I rotate the screw just a little back in the clockwise direction the no-wake mode will engage for a couple seconds and then quit. If I rotate the screw back to its original position it will not engage at all and shows no indication that it is even trying. You will need the T25 bit in the second picture below to adjust the screw or just a pair of pliers...."

View attachment 10300

Thank you for s Sharing your experience
I recently bought a boat and one of the engine was not engaging the No
Wake mode i ajuste the screw And work right away. Thank you so much??

 

[amorton12]

I'm only gonna necro this thread because it comes up as one of the top results for this problem, to add on a bit from my recent experience.

What that screw actually does is adjust the idle throttle position. Whether a quarter turn really affects anything negatively is unclear, but you are mechanically closing the throttle bodies ever so slightly by adjusting this, and after some diagnostics, I'm not convinced that's actually what needs adjustment. What I believe we have above is a band-aid for a miscalibrated throttle position sensor.

Using YDS, I found that engine off, throttle at rest, the voltage on my TPS was right on the upper threshold of what is specified in the service manual (0.768 +/- 0.016 V). Mine was around .780, and the resolution on these seems to be something like 0.005 or so. Doing the quarter turn anti-clockwise on the throttle stop screw did bring that value down toward the lower end of the spec, so it does also address the problem, however, based on my experience having to correct these TPS voltages on a couple of motorcycles, I suspected that the problem here was also not mechanical, but rather the sensor calibration itself.

Mine would work fine for a bit, then after the engine was warmed up, would shut off within a second or two of engagement. I could never repro this in the driveway on a hose, only in the water underway, so I never got reading when the failure was happening, unfortunately. What I suspect was happening is that a bit of heat buildup was skewing the sensor just enough in the "high" direction that the ECU thought I was off-idle, so I decided to adjust the actual TPS itself to be in-spec, and after an on-water test, I am confident that was the fix. I used it all throughout the day this past weekend with no issues at all.

My procedure for adjusting the TPS was a little unconventional, because accessing the adjustment screws ordinarily requires an extensive amount of disassembly - removing the throttle bodies from the airbox. What I ended up doing was drilling two holes in the side of the airbox right beside the two TPS screws, which allowed me access with a security T20 to loosen them. Once loose, a couple of very tiny bumps clockwise got the cold throttle-closed voltage down to around 0.759, where I carefully locked it back in place. I then covered the airbox access holes with tape, and buttoned it all up.

 

[kjr6306]

I've been dealing with a similar issue all year that I did not want to mess with until the season was over as I did not want to mess something up further and have a non-running engine. I'm going to recalibrate my TPS and idle speed settings this week. Do you happen to have a picture of where you drilled the holes in the engine cover to access the TPS screw?

 

[amorton12]

I've been dealing with a similar issue all year that I did not want to mess with until the season was over as I did not want to mess something up further and have a non-running engine. I'm going to recalibrate my TPS and idle speed settings this week. Do you happen to have a picture of where you drilled the holes in the engine cover to access the TPS screw?

I don't have one handy, but it's right beside the #1 TB, front of the engine. The uppermost screw is clearly visible from the top of the open airbox, and hitting it straight on is pretty easy. The other is about an inch away down and toward the port side, mostly blind - removing the bypass air hose on #1 and some careful eyeballing will let you get pretty close, but I ended up missing entirely on the first shot, and ovalling the next hole out a bit just to get a good bite on the fastener. It's not easy to get exactly right, but it beats tearing the airbox out, and once it's covered up, you'll never see it again anyway.

You will need a pretty short drill bit and/or compact drill, since the clearance to the engine bay wall is not very generous. I would start with 1/8" pilot holes and a piece of straight wire or a pick to get the alignment as good as you can, then come back in with a 3/8 or so to give you plenty of wiggle room. I happened to have a long-ish security torx set for this kind of stuff, so that might also be necessary unless your security torx drivers are pretty skinny or the holes you make are kinda fat.