(Not really) A different sort of stuck reverse cable...?

[msavold]

Finally able to get the boat back from storage! Spent the week end deep cleaning it (my wife had to comment that she'd never seen me clean something other than my teeth with a toothbrush!) and when I got to wiping down the throttles the starboard engine throttle would not go from reverse to forward. It'll move through the 'speed' range but when it comes to the point where the bucket has to move no joy.

When the boat went into storage, the last thing I did was winterize it so I know the cables were working properly at that point - a bit stiff perhaps but still working. When I store the boat I try and leave in reverse to keep the gate closed over the nozzle - and now it won't open. I've checked for the traditional rock stuck in the gate issue but I can't find anything that looks like a culprit. (BTW, boat is 2012 and used in salt/brackish water but flushed/washed with salt away after every outing.)

So, where would you start? I'm thinking step one is to disconnect the cable form the gate and see if I can get it to move or, given its age, assume that the throttle cable is screwed and replace it?

If it's the cable, is it one piece from throttle to bucket or two? From the service manual, it refers to 12 as the throttle cable and a connector cable (15)? And what's with the "remove air cleaner top" line? I don't remember seeing that in any of the cable replacement threads but I'll look again...

Thanks!

 

[Speedling]

Eating breakfast and out the door for work here but try looking on this site for the diy cable lube. Basically start with a tube around the bucket end of the cable and in your case maybe some pb blaster, let itsoak. (Keep hose elevated) and then work it slowly up to gear oil. It works really well but takes some time.
Most likely any rust will be in the first few feet by the back of the boat.

 

[msavold]

Thanks @Speedling - had some time to cool off and had another look today. Disconnected the bucket (should have looked at that before posting here!) and yea, it moved freely. The cable is completely seized up.
I guess what surprised me and made me think this was something different was that the stupid thing went from 'just a little stiff' to completely immovable in one (indoor) winter storage. Nope. Just another stuck cable.
Given the age of the cable(s) and the complexity of lubricating the existing one in relation to replacement, and with potentially mixed results, I'm just going to replace both with shiny new ones.

 

[tdonoughue]

Replaced one of those... Certainly a job, but really not as bad as it may seem. And there are a couple of good writeups on here...

Good luck! Remember, we like pics and reports!

 

[feziwig]

Just replaced both of mine. Time consuming but not that hard.
order the teleflex cables direct from a marine supplier. Yamaha uses the teleflex cables but they are marked up considerably for the exact same cables. Part numbers are herehttps://jetboaters.net/threads/seastar-teleflex-steering-systems-and-cables.10706/
And there are some good diy write ups on the forum. Just gotta search.

 

[msavold]

Well, color me stunned! I ordered the cables from Amazon yesterday at 12:34 p.m. for $48.85 including shipping.
Amazon.com: Control Cable Assy., 3300 TFXtreme, 18': Automotive
Shipped from Lino Lakes MN and AT 12:51 PM TODAY they were on my doorstep!
Problem now is that I can't get to the boat until the week end...
More to follow.

 

[msavold]

I'm back.
First of all, I've edited the thread title - I thought it was something different since the throttles went from "a bit stiff" to "this won't budge" over the course of one winter. But in the end it was just that - a pile of rust!

The problem now though is that I desperately need HELP and ADVICE! I ordered the SAME bloody cable as everyone else on here and the bloody replacement cable is about an inch longer - measuring from where the 'notch' that locks it in place is to the end of the threaded bit!!!

To show the total difference, I put the helm end of the cable as far back as possible and matched up the notch (where the split washer goes) on the old cable to the new one and this is what I get:


With both cables in the same "internal" position (ie: both pushed in to the stop at one end) the opposite ends should match, no?

Backing up a bit, the cables were easy to pull BUT to get the little swivel thingy that sit on top of the pump to fit, I had to use up ALL the spare threads (ie: wind things on to the stops, never mind the same number of turns) at BOTH throttle and pump end. And the end result was this:



Not exactly the 0.93" the manual says!!!

So I tore everything apart, TRIPLE checked the cables:
OLD CABLE:

NEW CABLE:


WHAT THE HELL is is going on? Did I screw something up - or are cables with the same part number different?
I'm tempted to pull one of the new ones back out and lay it beside the old one. But then I still don't know what the right solution would be.

By using up all the slack at both ends - winding the clips on as far as I can - the difference is about 1/4"-3/8". That would put the bucket at the correct 1" opening. So one option I'm considering is to cut about 3/16" of threads off each end (on both cables, damn it) and then I should be able to set the bucket to a correct neutral with a tiny bit to spare.

The other option I guess would be to go and get new cables and try again - but how can that be the issue?

What would you do?

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok. So, are you the original owner? In other words, is that old cable the stock one? Perhaps a prior owner bought an aftermarket and cut and rethreaded the old one?

I want to say I bought the oem F2D-U149C-00-00 one and had no issue. But then there is this thread... https://jetboaters.net/threads/reverse-cable-teleflex-part-number-oem-f2d-u149c-00-00.9949/

I dunno.

 

[msavold]

Second owner - but bought the boat when it was a couple of years old in fresh water and 70 hours so I can't imagine they'd had the cables done already.
I went with the Seastar alternative mentioned here and am regretting it. Local dealer wanted $100 more per cable so it was just too tempting.
Just saw now that I could have gotten OEM for $40 more each from some place on line and should/have jumped on that instead. Oh well...
Thanks for the input.

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, a couple of years and 70 hours is unlikely to have been changed.

If it makes you feel any better (it won't), I would have done the same thing.

I think at this point, though, I would break out my tap and die set, find the right die, and cut some threads farther up on the cable. Then you can put a nut or two on there, cut off the end file it up a bit and back the nuts off.

 

[VitaminSea]

Just checking in, did you decide to cut the cables? (Not sure if I followed of this was just one cable, or both engines). As you commented, I just replaced both of mine with the Seastar cables CCX63318 They matched what I believe were the OEM cables (same marking).

I feel bad that you are struggling with this!

 

[msavold]

Thanks guys. Yep. Pulled out the Roto Zip with the metal cut off wheel and it made short work of cutting about 3/8" off the ends of both cables.
Put everything back together (and to think I was apprehensive about dismantling the helm controls - do it in my sleep now!) and I got a 1" gap.

@tdonoughue , had the 10-32 die handy and even tried it on one of the old cables. Problem is I can't think of a good way to clamp the cable (while on the boat...) without marring it. In the end, I got an adequate gap - with both ends screwed down to the stops, mind you - that I'm going to leave it for now. And maybe next season pull new OEM cables!