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Oil Change: Questions

702mireles

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Long time no see friends.. so I have a question? I changed the oil in my 195 and when I was done I cranked the motor and it started but a check engine light came on. Is this normal? Do I have to clear it with my can doo interface?
 

Luc Lafreniere

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Did you recheck the oil level after running the engine? Make sure the level is correct. After running it, it may not be as full as you think and that could explain the oil light. If you did, then disregard and I have no idea otherwise lol
 

702mireles

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Did you recheck the oil level after running the engine? Make sure the level is correct. After running it, it may not be as full as you think and that could explain the oil light. If you did, then disregard and I have no idea otherwise lol
Thanks for the reply back.... Yes I did. I put one full gallon off oil. It wasn't an oil light. It is the engine light. I will know more when I hook the Candoo up.
 

Luc Lafreniere

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Gotcha. I think you can get codes as well... but Candoo will do better ;) Good luck!
 

PapaBear

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I'm going to change my oil and save the 320$...Just want to make sure I get the correct oil. The OP reply is the correct oil?
 

PapaBear

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Took me 15 minutes once I got the oil filter screw out. Super easy. I appreciate the info here it helped tremendously.
 

ScarabRyan

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I’m trying to find the parts needed for the filter and the link to eBay is no good. Can someone please post the part numbers or a link to purchase ?
 

Luc Lafreniere

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Of course, it assumes you have the tools already including the E10 socket and vacuum pump.
 

TCASMER

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Oil changes are some of the small things Yamaha, and Rotax have in common. Still an informative post!
I am getting ready for the beginning of the season and have 22 hours on my 2018 Scarab 165G. The manual says to change oil and filter; replace spark plugs; replace coolant; replace impeller shaft seal, sleeve and O-ring. How involved is replacing the impeller shaft seal, sleeve and O-ring and is it really needed with so few hours on the clock? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Luc Lafreniere

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- Coolant is every TWO years. But you can also just test it with a hygrometer.
- Oil, filter and plugs every season. I personally run the plugs longer, but keep spares and tools in the boat in case.
- Impeller seal, sleeve and O ring does not need to be replaced frequently. But it's a good idea to remove the pump and inspect them at least once every 2 years (I do mine every year). I have never HAD to replace any of it. But again, I keep spares in case I need to. I do inspect and re-grease the pump when I inspect.

In short, with 22 hours, no. I wouldn't bother with anything related to the pump. It is quite easy to access. There's a Chaparral video on youtube that shows how to do it.
 

TCASMER

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- Coolant is every TWO years. But you can also just test it with a hygrometer.
- Oil, filter and plugs every season. I personally run the plugs longer, but keep spares and tools in the boat in case.
- Impeller seal, sleeve and O ring does not need to be replaced frequently. But it's a good idea to remove the pump and inspect them at least once every 2 years (I do mine every year). I have never HAD to replace any of it. But again, I keep spares in case I need to. I do inspect and re-grease the pump when I inspect.

In short, with 22 hours, no. I wouldn't bother with anything related to the pump. It is quite easy to access. There's a Chaparral video on youtube that shows how to do it.
Thanks for the information. It is a big help.
 

TCASMER

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Thanks for the information. It is a big help.
Does anyone know where I can get the part numbers for the impeller shaft seal, sleeve and O-ring for the 165G? Is there a better spark plug than the NGK DCPR8E? What grease would you use to lube the pump?
 

Luc Lafreniere

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- Select Rotax JPS
- Last two letters of you engine model number
- HP
- Engine type

That allows you to look up all part numbers from BRP. Not Scarab stuff. Note that some stuff like the jet pump is only shown in one of those types. In your case, just like me, the pump is under the non cat option. If you then select the Jet Pump option, all the parts are shown and the corresponding part numbers below.

Note that many BRP part numbers have equivalent Sea-Doo part numbers. Unless you have a Scarab dealer to ship stuff to you, you'll have to figure out what the corresponding Sea-Doo part number is so you can request that from any of those dealers. They won't know anything about BRP part numbers.

- Shaft seal I assume you mean the carbon ring? If so, BRP#0461970 under Driveshaft section.
- Sleeve I assume you mean the impeller boot? If so, BRP#0460136 under the Jet Pump section.
- O-ring, that depends on which one you're talking about. If it's the one by the carbon ring, Part 110 BRP#0460334. If you're talking about the two O-rings inside the impeller cone, BRP#0460333.

But obviously crosscheck everything. In case I'm not interpreting what you're asking correctly.

Not sure if there's something "better" for the plug. I use what is recommended by BRP which is that one. It has served me well and lasted 3+ seasons before finally giving out. The letter E at the end is important btw. It has the removable nut. So if you do get that, make sure it's definitely that one because you'll need to remove the nut to get the coils to fit properly.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to PM me if you have more questions. :) You can also PM me via Facebook if you prefer instant back/forth: Luc Lafrenière
 

TCASMER

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- Select Rotax JPS
- Last two letters of you engine model number
- HP
- Engine type

That allows you to look up all part numbers from BRP. Not Scarab stuff. Note that some stuff like the jet pump is only shown in one of those types. In your case, just like me, the pump is under the non cat option. If you then select the Jet Pump option, all the parts are shown and the corresponding part numbers below.

Note that many BRP part numbers have equivalent Sea-Doo part numbers. Unless you have a Scarab dealer to ship stuff to you, you'll have to figure out what the corresponding Sea-Doo part number is so you can request that from any of those dealers. They won't know anything about BRP part numbers.

- Shaft seal I assume you mean the carbon ring? If so, BRP#0461970 under Driveshaft section.
- Sleeve I assume you mean the impeller boot? If so, BRP#0460136 under the Jet Pump section.
- O-ring, that depends on which one you're talking about. If it's the one by the carbon ring, Part 110 BRP#0460334. If you're talking about the two O-rings inside the impeller cone, BRP#0460333.

But obviously crosscheck everything. In case I'm not interpreting what you're asking correctly.

Not sure if there's something "better" for the plug. I use what is recommended by BRP which is that one. It has served me well and lasted 3+ seasons before finally giving out. The letter E at the end is important btw. It has the removable nut. So if you do get that, make sure it's definitely that one because you'll need to remove the nut to get the coils to fit properly.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to PM me if you have more questions. :) You can also PM me via Facebook if you prefer instant back/forth: Luc Lafrenière
Thanks for all of your help. The parts that I was asking about were listed in the OPERATORS MANUAL for ROTAX 4-TEC 150, 200, 250(ECT) in the maintenance section, but it had no specific part number or where to find them. I am new to this and appreciate all of the time that you have spent figuring all of this out.
 

Luc Lafreniere

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All good. We've all been through that if you're doing your own maintenance. lol Luckily I had many of those part numbers ready to go since I purchased them myself (except the carbon ring). So no sweat. :)

Again, if you have any questions at all, this forum is great but feel free to PM me directly. I also own a 165G and do all of my own maintenance.
 

ScarabRyan

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I am doing my first oil change on my 2015 Scarab 195 HO. How much oil is it supposed to take ?
 

Luc Lafreniere

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3.25 quarts assuming you got all of it out. Your suction tube needs to go 18.75" deep, no more. Mark it before suctioning the oil out. If you go deeper, there's a risk of it getting stuck. Don't ask me how I know. lol
 

Luc Lafreniere

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Also, I hope everyone noticed how I abstained from making various jokes there.... you should all be proud of me.
 
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