Oil then plugs or vice versa

[cbus]

Curious. When coming out of storage after the winter and assuming fogging had occurred, what is the proper sequence.

Should you ref the engines for 5 mins with the hose, replace the oil and filter then do the plugs or plugs first?

 

[davel501]

If fogged, I would hold off on the plugs until you have run it a bit on the lake for at least 20 mins.

 

[Boat Crazy]

I normally change my oil in the Fall but do run my engines to burn off fogging oil before changing spark plugs. I would recommend oil first. That gives your engine running time to burn off fogging oil before changing plugs. I do however, let my engines cool before changing my plugs. I may be mistaken, but read somewhere that it is better to change plugs cold due to metal expansion when hot.

 

[cbus]

How difficult to change the plugs while on the water?

I always thought that after fogging it was best to change as the fogging oil fouled the plugs.

 

[txav8r]

I don't think you risk fouling or having to burn off fogging oil, if you fog using the current tech bulletin from Yamaha. For that reason, I have changed my plugs on the cold engine, and then run on the hose to warm the oil, then changed the oil and filters. Pretty easy.

 

[SCSTWG]

When you talk about running "on the hose" can you detail the process? I hear everyone talking about it, but have never done it. I will start the engines without water, but shut them down within 5 seconds or so. Anything to be concerned about when running on the hose?

 

[Chris Tronzano]

Make sure when running the engines on the hose that it is engine on, hose on, hose off, engine off. Never have the hose water on with the engine not running.

 

[billyb]

?

How does fogging foul up after only one year of use?

I had a wave runner for five years, always fogged and never needed to change the plugs.

Is this something to do with these boats?

 

[txav8r]

Really? 5 years on original plugs. Ever read your manual? You should have had 6 plug inspections, cleanings, and gappings, as a minimum by now. And the crush washer gaskets are single use, so unless you found a source for new gaskets, you should just replace the plugs. According to the owners and service manuals...even on your ski. Same with the boats. These boats have a history on the MR-1 engines of plugs breaking off when left too long and allowed to seize.

 

[billyb]

When I got a walk through on my boat from the dealer, I specifically asked him if I should change plugs yearly after fogging. He said "no, you used to need to do that with the older engines". He then said every other two to three years or when it runs rough.

I appreciate and respect your opinions, which is why I am asking...but the yearly change contradicts what my dealer said.

Thanks

 

[davel501]

When I got a walk through on my boat from the dealer, I specifically asked him if I should change plugs yearly after fogging. He said "no, you used to need to do that with the older engines". He then said every other two to three years or when it runs rough.

I appreciate and respect your opinions, which is why I am asking...but the yearly change contradicts what my dealer said.

Thanks

You need to read the manual that came with your boat. Folks at dealerships and on here pass on the best information that they have. That does not mean it is right for your boat. I actually had a guy from a non-Yamaha dealership tell me that the proper way to launch a boat was to completely disconnect it from the trailer before backing down the ramp. He also told me to never buy a roller trailer because the boats fall right off onto the concrete while launching. Most people know that you always keep that bow eye connected until the boat is in the water but not all.

 

[davel501]

I normally change my oil in the Fall but do run my engines to burn off fogging oil before changing spark plugs. I would recommend oil first. That gives your engine running time to burn off fogging oil before changing plugs. I do however, let my engines cool before changing my plugs. I may be mistaken, but read somewhere that it is better to change plugs cold due to metal expansion when hot.

Good point on changing the oil in the fall. You are supposed to change the oil in the fall because engine oil turns acidic as the engine runs. You want fresh clean oil in there for storage.

 

[Magic]

Change the oil before storage, run the boat to burn off fogging oil if you have not complied with the latest TSB, then change the plugs in the spring. Running the old plugs in the spring allows any contaminants in the fuel lines as well as old fogging oil to foul a plug you are going to replace anyway instead of the risk of fouling a new one.

Changing plugs on the water is a snap. Last plug change I did took 15 minutes total, YMMV.......



(edited to correct a misspelling)

 

[tdonoughue]

You mean YNMMV, right?

 

[txav8r]

@billyb , your among friends here. The combined knowledge is impressive here, and for the most part, we regurgitate the same stuff over and over. Spark plugs are a known issue and have been for years. Dealers are not always the best source of information. As a matter of fact, they have mislead many an owner, whether by accident or by misunderstanding. Your certainly not the first to take what they told you as gospel. Unless you were talking to a service tech, they don't know. And even then, your question to him around fogging could have been misinterpreted. Because you do not need to burn off fogging oil before changing plugs today, if you followed the latest Yamaha tech bulletin regarding fogging. Plugs on the other hand, even though the manuals state minimum requirements to meet service standards (and to meet the requirements of your factory warranty) are cheap and make a big difference in the way these boats run. Do they need an annual change? Maybe not, but that is what the book says...and I can tell you that the number of members posting issues is eye opening. These boats hold water in the water box, and that humidity migrates back up the exhaust and into open valves. That rusts steel threads on spark plugs in short order. But even still, all don't change plugs annually and some have even changed to iridiums to change less frequently. I'm just providing you with what the manual says, and what a many owners feel is a good habit with these boats. This forum is the single best source of information and knowledge that you will find. Yamaha pays attention to our forum, and we are the test bed. When we discover issues, they make changes.

 

[cbus]

I appreciate the feedback.

@Magic ...so your saying to run the engine with the old plugs first in case contamination occurs from the fuel or fogging oil so that if they foul a plug it's going to be on the old ones?

I'm assuming at this point that I change the oil since the engine will be warm and then when it cools, change the plugs?

 

[Seadeals]

@txav8r... you make a good point Mel, while I tried to blow out most of the water from the exhaust last season, there was still a significant amount in the starboard water box when I loosened it to change the scupper. It is not that hard to pull the large exhaust hose off the water box. Has anyone done that and pumped out the water box before winter storage? Too paranoid? The port would be a bit tricky; but seems like very simple insurance at least for one engine and a prime opportunity to assure we check all the clamps back there annually.

 

[Magic]

I appreciate the feedback.

@Magic ...so your saying to run the engine with the old plugs first in case contamination occurs from the fuel or fogging oil so that if they foul a plug it's going to be on the old ones?

I'm assuming at this point that I change the oil since the engine will be warm and then when it cools, change the plugs?

We don't even wait for the engines to cool to change the plugs, but the rest is correct, at least that's how we were taught to do it.

One thing I might suggest is to change one cylinder at a time so there is no confusion as to which coil lead goes to which cylinder......just takes that potential for trouble out of the equation.

 

[cbus]

Thanks Magic!

 

[Gym]

@txav8r... you make a good point Mel, while I tried to blow out most of the water from the exhaust last season, there was still a significant amount in the starboard water box when I loosened it to change the scupper. It is not that hard to pull the large exhaust hose off the water box. Has anyone done that and pumped out the water box before winter storage? Too paranoid? The port would be a bit tricky; but seems like very simple insurance at least for one engine and a prime opportunity to assure we check all the clamps back there annually.

I just run a little anti freeze through the system. Much easier.