Part 4 Engine Reassembly To End Milky Oil

[WREKS]

Thanks for reporting!

 

[14SX190]

Thanks for reporting!

Is there anything Im missing?
Do you think 2nd oil change may improve

I wish places had skills to pressurize cylinder and check for cracks can be only other issue

 

[tdonoughue]

I think changing the oil on a new engine (which is basically what you have) is good practice anyway. There are bound to be all manner of metal chips, parts of gaskets, dust, and fluids that did not get cleaned out in the manufacture process, even if just from parts like in yours. I certainly would not panic until after a change or two.

But getting back on the water with it is great! Functionality will increase at least what you get for it if you go to sell it...

 

[WREKS]

The head gasket in post #8 of 'Milky oil 1.8 NA Part 3 Engine Disassembly,' never did get explained. On the right hand side, it looks like the gasket was totally compromised. Is that why you sent the head out to have it milled? Or did I miss something? Gasket in Post# 8

 

[14SX190]

The head gasket in post #8 of 'Milky oil 1.8 NA Part 3 Engine Disassembly,' never did get explained. On the right hand side, it looks like the gasket was totally compromised. Is that why you sent the head out to have it milled? Or did I miss something? Gasket in Post# 8

Correct
Machinist showed me where it wasn't sealed, plus blockage of block anode I assumed pushed through head gasket.

 

[WREKS]

Do you have all your exhaust bolts in and torqued to spec. Check Yellowbird911 Milky oil resolution. He ended up determining that water was breaching the exhaust manifold gasket and getting into the valves. At least that is my theory. I think it turns to steam and that makes it very easy.

 

[14SX190]

Haven't seen any steam.
everything torqued to spec.

Had new old EM gasket used.
I watched his thread and glad he had success.

 

[tdonoughue]

Not completely clear to me that your oil was water-foamed from the pic (versus contaminated with something else). So I would do a change and see if it repeats. If it does... well, then you still have an issue. Seems like a cheap test to me.

 

[14SX190]

Not completely clear to me that your oil was water-foamed from the pic (versus contaminated with something else). So I would do a change and see if it repeats. If it does... well, then you still have an issue. Seems like a cheap test to me.

agreed
trying to be optimistic

 

[14SX190]

Old oil settled.
Had a lot of sediment but turbid/oil color. Oil is thinned but not milky.
Hoping next oil change or two I get normal color.

Dumb question, what is up with the condensation theory as my oil cap has white paste residue vs contaminated oil residue.
I know running engine is solution but why does it happen. Should I let moisture out by leaving oil cap off when stored?

 

[tdonoughue]

Dunno, but I doubt leaving the oil cap off is the solution. Seems to me you then run the risk of introducing as much if not more contamination than releasing any contamination...

 

[14SX190]

Dunno, but I doubt leaving the oil cap off is the solution. Seems to me you then run the risk of introducing as much if not more contamination than releasing any contamination...

It seems I'm chasing moisture on top of things but leaving something like filter used for breather vent.
I try hard to get all the water out of the water box which I think is where it's attributed too.

I figured I'd take extra two oil change kits and change it on the water this time. Hopefully things will turn around after 3rd hot oil change back to back.
Will continue to update Tuesday

 

[tdonoughue]

It is not uncommon after a flooding to have folks change the oil 5+ times before they are back to normal oil. Be patient. Change the oil and run the mess out of that sucker. The heat of running it will run off the water. After a few hours of running, change again. If you are doing that and see it not getting better or getting worse, then you have something about which to worry. If it is getting better, that is normal and what should happen.

 

[14SX190]

It is not uncommon after a flooding to have folks change the oil 5+ times before they are back to normal oil. Be patient. Change the oil and run the mess out of that sucker. The heat of running it will run off the water. After a few hours of running, change again. If you are doing that and see it not getting better or getting worse, then you have something about which to worry. If it is getting better, that is normal and what should happen.

Fingers crossed thats my case.

 

[WREKS]

I would try the pressurizing cylinders as in leak down testing. If you get #1 near TDC, #4 is also at TDC. Same goes for #2 and #3. Compare your results! There is probably only one place where water/condensation/steam is contaminating the oil. I still think either the head or exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. I think it would have been better if the mechanics had dressed those gaskets with a sealant when they reassembled the engine.

 

[WREKS]

If you were able to remove the engine from the boat, you could probably remove the head. You would just have to rigorously follow the service manual. If the oil changes come back milky, you should consider it. You hàve the skills.

 

[14SX190]

I would try the pressurizing cylinders as in leak down testing. If you get #1 near TDC, #4 is also at TDC. Same goes for #2 and #3. Compare your results! There is probably only one place where water/condensation/steam is contaminating the oil. I still think either the head or exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. I think it would have been better if the mechanics had dressed those gaskets with a sealant when they reassembled the engine.

I think I have gotten good at it, I'll give it a try
Agreed. I may need to come back apart and will definitely add some gasket maker.

If you were able to remove the engine from the boat, you could probably remove the head. You would just have to rigorously follow the service manual. If the oil changes come back milky, you should consider it. You hàve the skills.

I can remove EM again? Put some exhaust RTV sealant and bolt it up again or wait to see what happens with oil changes.

I am hoping it what has been said, it will take a few changes. Picking up oil and filter today for tomorrow.
If after 2nd or 3rd oil change on the water theres no change. It's tear it down again.

I've taken engine out of ski before and bot was not different. I did all I could with the SM and left the technical part to someone else.
I hated having to outsource since looked what happened, guy installed cams wrong. What if he didn't torque bolts right?

I have gotten better with torquing and stopping when it clicks, if head comes off again, I will reinstall it and let him time it again.

 

[WREKS]

You do not have to take out the engine to get an idea about where the moisture-into-oil leak is. Just get TDC and charge the spark plug hole with a little air. Any compressor will do. Whatever cylinder leaks down faster than the other ones is probably your target. You should be able to hear the air leak through any water supply or return hose.

As far as sealants I use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid on both sides of the head gasket. In fact I use a touch of it to hold o-rings in place. I got it from O'Reilly.

 

[14SX190]

update.

Broken EM bolt.
Got it out with vice grips.
Thank god for anti size.

I have to tap threads to get old sealant/locker that is in there out and clean bolt threads

 

[jmargo]

I didn't read your previous threads so this may have been covered. Did you do any disassembly of the bottom end or just remove engine and have head redone ?