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Pilot (Pee) hole replacement

Did these fit without modification or stretching of the hose? Trying to determine if I need 1/2 inch or 3/8 for our 09 232.

As mentioned in an early post. either will work as all of us have used one or the other. It's hose, it's meant to be stretched or crimped. If you have to ask, it's better to stretch, than to crimp, so go with the larger. But after a couple years, with proper crimping, the small have worked without leaking for me.

Worst case, get out your calipers and measure, they are not hard to get at.
 
Look much better and easy replacement, just have to file the hole a bit to get a nice tight fit..I put a small bead of 3M 5200 around the edge.
What did you use to file the hole?
 
The 1/2" x 45 degree is what you want. 3/8" would be too loose on the hose IMHO. I applied some dish wash soap to the inside of hose and the billet aluminum goes in easily and the clamp tightens securely. Then fire up the engines and watch the bubbles blow out the side !! Might also be a good time to replace the cheap OE hose clamps with stainless steel ?
 

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The 1/2" x 45 degree is what you want. 3/8" would be too loose on the hose IMHO. I applied some dish wash soap to the inside of hose and the billet aluminum goes in easily and the clamp tightens securely. Then fire up the engines and watch the bubbles blow out the side !! Might also be a good time to replace the cheap OE hose clamps with stainless steel ?
@WildCatFan54 so what size worked for you for the bilge? Asking because your boat year is same as mine. I plan to go with 1/2”x45 for the pissers. Is 3/4” still the correct one? Thanks!
 
@WildCatFan54 so what size worked for you for the bilge? Asking because your boat year is same as mine. I plan to go with 1/2”x45 for the pissers. Is 3/4” still the correct one? Thanks!
@ZGhost , Yes, 3/4" straight is the correct bilge outlet size. No filing required as it is exactly same diameter as the plastic one it's replacing. Easy project. Good Luck.
 
Did these fit without modification or stretching of the hose? Trying to determine if I need 1/2 inch or 3/8 for our 09 232.
If you look at earlier posts, I posted a photo of what I needed to do to get them to fit properly. Still work great on my boat.
 
I have 2010 242 Limited S

I just ordered a couple of these to replace my pissers:

And a couple of these for bilge (one for primary, the other for secondary bilge pump):

Will post here if they are wrong size or not, but from what I understand from above they should work. Worse case I may have to stretch the pisser hoses a bit to get them to fit over the fitting itself - which really isn't that big of a deal. And for me, if I have to replace the pisser hose so be it. For a 11 year old boat it's part of the deal to me. I replaced the scupper valve recently due to info found on this site, and thank goodness I did with stainless. Scupper was already cracked and barely hanging on with the factory silicone - seriously only hanging on by maybe 15% of the diameter of the tubes plastic that was not broken yet. To me anything plastic that's important for the boat to either keep afloat or running it's time to swap it out for metal due to my boats age. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread and those like it. So far you've all pointed me in the right direction and kept me avoiding some expensive issues.
 
The 1/2" pisser fittings were easy to replace. I removed the nut on the outside of the old pissers, pushed them inside the boat leaving the original seals in place. Took a barrel sander end on my battery operated dremel and quickly opened the original pisser hole slightly to allow the new Bowsion 1/2" pisser fittings to fit. Before putting the fittings in, I took a silver permanent marker and put a mark on the end of the fitting in two locations on the hose fitting side for: 1) one that aligned with the angled hole. 2) one that represented "top" for when the fitting would be installed with the angle of the 45 degree hole taken into consideration. That way I didn't have to have someone outside the boat hold them in the correct position for me while I tightened the nut on the inside of the hull. Once tightened, I pushed the pisser hoses with hose clamp pushed up the hose a bit onto the new fitting (a little stretch, but nothing major) and brought the clamps back down to the original position and tightened. On my 242 for both only took about 20-25 min start to finish.

Now being able to reach all the way back to the bilge fitting, I'm trying to figure out how to do that on my 242 limited S....may have to get creative in order to reach it as it's back by the shower tank near the back starboard corner of the boat. Wish it was near the pissers like @WildCatFan54 , but not so lucky on my 2010.

If anyone has a creative way to do this for bilge fittings without taking out the shower tank, please let me know.
 
Stupid question however where or what part of the boat did you have to remove in order to access the pissers and bilge fitting? Does the left side wall in the engine cavity come out? I have a 2010 212X. Thanks guys!
 
For my 242 the pissers were on stbd side within the stbd storage area just behind the helm seat. Nothing to remove/move to get to the pissers after I climbed down in there and looked up on the side of the boat. Bilge fitting for me since it sits back a bit behind the pissers by several feet looks like I'll have to take out the freshwater tank on rear stbd side to get to it. If you don't have that tank or your bilge hull fitting is closer to the pissers you'll probably be able to access easier than on a 2010 242 would be my guess.
 
Thank you for that reply. Looks like I need to get my yoga positions on in the boat as I can't see or feel any plumbing in my rear storage compartment.
 
Lol...yeah feels like that for me as well sometimes. I've almost gotten stuck a couple of times early on as I learned where I do and don't fit!
 
Needing help..... have 2012 AR 210 and I'm needing to replace the OEM PWC water bypass on boat as the both were damaged on dock. I'm looking at replacing them with the billet aluminum.Would anyone happen to know what size waterline I'm needing. Is it 1/2 or 3/4. Also what would ya recommend the 45 or 90 degree. ThX in advance.

Quote Reply
 
Needing help..... have 2012 AR 210 and I'm needing to replace the OEM PWC water bypass on boat as the both were damaged on dock. I'm looking at replacing them with the billet aluminum.Would anyone happen to know what size waterline I'm needing. Is it 1/2 or 3/4. Also what would ya recommend the 45 or 90 degree. ThX in advance.

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Should be the 1/2 inch. Personal preference on 45 vs 90 degree, most go 45 so you can clearly see the cooling water coming out. I would think the 90 would make it difficult to see from the helm.
 
Should be the 1/2 inch. Personal preference on 45 vs 90 degree, most go 45 so you can clearly see the cooling water coming out. I would think the 90 would make it difficult to see from the helm.
Thx for the info. Greatly appreciated!!!
 
 
Thank u!!! Much appreciated!!
 
See May 23, 2021 add to this thread for how I installed. With dremel barrel sander wheel (on end of cordless drill even) only took a couple short seconds to make them fit. Very little to open hole up is needed. If you ever think you'll do metal for bilge pump one day (or add second bilge pump later) I'd order all at once the type and qty needed and pay shipping 1 time, your call though.
 
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