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Planning my last big upgrade, a new sound system

Thanks for the pics guys.

@redthumper9 I can’t envision how your remotes line are set up so I’m probably going to just use a small bus bar to split the signal to the amps. Ive already powered 3 of the 4 at this way so hopefully one more won’t be a problem.

Your amp install looks clean. I like the way the wiring is routed. I was a little concerned about the gauge of my power and ground cables, Although my total RMS watt output is under 1,200 my combined max watt output is about 3,300 so I’ve decided to upgrade my power and ground cables to 0 guage like you did (I’m already in over $2k and figure now is not the time to “go econo”). I can reuse a few feet of the 4 or 8 gauge to run from the distribution blocks to the amps. My blocks will be separate from the fuses. Why did you put fuses on the ground cables to the amps? At this point I don’t mind spending the extra money but I’ve never seen fuses on ground cables? At the same time I just checked out the pics of wetsounds amps and if I paid that much for my amps I would want to make sure they are as protected as possible.

@rkim808 , no apology necessary. I love your custom sub setup but like @redthumper9 stated I use that compartment for storage so I can’t do what you did. I may be able to live with the sound my 10” alpine sub will put out now that I’ve got a proper amp to drive it. If not I’m thinking of installing a bass tube in the compartment behind the co-pilot’s seat or another Alpine sub in the upper or lower step at the bow.

thanks again guys.
 
Thanks for the pics guys.

@redthumper9 I can’t envision how your remotes line are set up so I’m probably going to just use a small bus bar to split the signal to the amps. Ive already powered 3 of the 4 at this way so hopefully one more won’t be a problem.

Your amp install looks clean. I like the way the wiring is routed. I was a little concerned about the gauge of my power and ground cables, Although my total RMS watt output is under 1,200 my combined max watt output is about 3,300 so I’ve decided to upgrade my power and ground cables to 0 guage like you did (I’m already in over $2k and figure now is not the time to “go econo”). I can reuse a few feet of the 4 or 8 gauge to run from the distribution blocks to the amps. My blocks will be separate from the fuses. Why did you put fuses on the ground cables to the amps? At this point I don’t mind spending the extra money but I’ve never seen fuses on ground cables? At the same time I just checked out the pics of wetsounds amps and if I paid that much for my amps I would want to make sure they are as protected as possible.

@rkim808 , no apology necessary. I love your custom sub setup but like @redthumper9 stated I use that compartment for storage so I can’t do what you did. I may be able to live with the sound my 10” alpine sub will put out now that I’ve got a proper amp to drive it. If not I’m thinking of installing a bass tube in the compartment behind the co-pilot’s seat or another Alpine sub in the upper or lower step at the bow.

thanks again guys.

The relay is quite simple but maybe you'll be OK without it. If you look closely, you'll see the metal jumpers in the ground fuse block. The Wetsounds distribution blocks come with them so you can use them as ground distribution as well. Looks clean with both matching. Good call on going bigger with the wire.... Make sure to use OFC and not CCA. I went down that road once ?
 
I finished mounting the amps to the board including the wiring. I also removed the removed the tower tweeters (last of the oem speakers) and found that the alpine tweeters fit perfectly in the oem mounts/housings, one of which is cracked. I also just noticed that my two pairs of tweeters are rated for a different max rms watts than each other. I will put the higher output pair on the bow not over my head.

I need to decide where mount the tweeters in the bow, behind the head rests, in the pocket created where the cushions meet, in the forward step, or in the cup holder area? I’m currently thinking behind the head rests. what do you guys think?
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Just some pics of the stock cross over.
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I cut two new holes and enlarged two existing holes in the boat today. Small holes for the 1” alpine bow tweeters (tight fit) and a dremel for enlarging the swim deck speaker holes for 8” kickers with integrated leds. It may not look like much but it took forever to complete all four items, cutting and drilling my boat is always stressful for me.

I stil need to wipe the sharpie marks off the, there are no gaps, the tweeters fit perfectly. I had to remove the cushions to drill where I need to. I also plan to use the dark grills all the way around. I just mounted the white grills on the stern for the pics.

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It’s been a little while since my last update. The weekend I installed all of the wiring (but didn’t actually complete the connections at the head unit or batteries) for the new stereo and speakers as well as installed the stereo, wired remote, wireless remotes and two additional USB charging ports.

Next I have to fabricate(?) a new and bigger board to mount my amps and related accessories on.

Pics to come.
 
It’s been a little while since my last update. The weekend I installed all of the wiring (but didn’t actually complete the connections at the head unit or batteries) for the new stereo and speakers as well as installed the stereo, wired remote, wireless remotes and two additional USB charging ports.

Next I have to fabricate(?) a new and bigger board to mount my amps and related accessories on.

Pics to come.
I like the wiring and amp board. Looks good, very clean. How's the kickers sound? I was looking at those for my boat.
 
Here are the additional pics coming out of my latest efforts. I don’t know how the kicker amps or speakers sound in the boat yet since I haven’t used them there yet. I did verify that entertains powers up though and all my amps put out as much RMS power as the speakers are spec’d to take.
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I have been busy rewiring the battery compartment, completing the wiring to all the speakers, head unit and additional usb / 12 v ports. I also relocated one of my wireless remotes. Today I removed the electronics board template from under the engine compartment (I used this to the drill pilots holes that the actual board and amps will be mounted to. Hopefully by the end of this weekend I will have installed the board and amps so I can listen to and tune the music while I continue to work on the boat during my extended driveway boating season.
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Installed tweeters on the swim deck. It took longer than expected because my hole saw broke almost immediately which caused me to stand in line at Home Depot for 25 minutes just to get in. Now I’m waiting for replacement 6.5”s for the cockpit, one of my original kickers died (the woofer is not putting out any sound). Nice unexpected spend of $200 plus $18 for a 2” hole saw. On a related note when I tried to use my dremel to clean up a part I found my dremel just died (it lasted 15 years or more so I can’t complain but it couldn’t have died at a worse time).
 

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Love where you put the amps and the board. Clean and nice. I have my lines stored there on a hanger system and my amp opposite (but that means the wires run across the back wall over to the amp.
 
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