Popping when you sit on the convertable seat

[Addicted]

So, I did not like the way I installed the soundproofing on my engine hatch, so last night I removed what I had, and re-installed a different product. When complete I decided to take a look at the latch for the engine hatch. When I would step on the hatch it would drop about a half inch and make a "pop". This started towards the end of last season and I never got around to looking at it. I have also had this problem with the convertible seat since the boat was new. We typically keep that seat in the down position, so it was not that big of a deal, but when someone did sit there in the upright position (forward facing seat) the seat would pop and drop about a half inch when you first sit down or when you hit a wave. It made anyone sitting there uncomfortable, as it feels like your breaking the seat. Anyways, I take a look at the engine hatch latch and the lower pin it loose. After playing with it a bit to see if there was an adjustment, I determine that the lower pin is flat on two sides and round on the other two. If you turn the pin so that the flat edges are on the side, as opposed the top and bottom, the hatch works perfectly. I then went over to the convertible seat and the lower pin is tight, so I grab a couple wrenches and spin that lower pin 90 degrees, and bam, popping is gone!

Like I said, the pin for the engine hatch was loose, so it worked itself into the wrong position, but the pin for the seat was installed incorrectly.

 

[Zeus2013]

Amazing what a annoyance a small thing like the pin can be...

 

[Gym]

@Addicted I'm getting ready to soundproof my engine compartment also. What soundproofing material did you remove and what new product did you replace it with. Do you remember where you got it and how much you needed? Thanks-Gym

 

[drjames1107]

Thanks, I'm gonna have to look at that. I have the same annoying pop when I stand on the engine hatch to exit. I wanted to complain but thought "Just let it go", lol.

 

[jawsf16]

Mine does the same, no big deal...

 

[Addicted]

@Addicted I'm getting ready to soundproof my engine compartment also. What soundproofing material did you remove and what new product did you replace it with. Do you remember where you got it and how much you needed? Thanks-Gym

The first time around I pulled the factory foam and installed 3 layers of vibration dampener (Dyna Mat or the like), then re-installed the factory foam, followed by a layer of foil faced insulation that I purchased from Home Depot (I believe it was hot water tank wrap). I also installed the bulb seal. I do not remember the size of bulb seal, but it was whatever was reccomended on YJB.

After a handful of times opening and closing the hatch, the bulb seal began to break away from the adhesive backing. Eventually about 50% of the bulb seal had broke free, so that I had a black strip of adhesive backing left there with half of the bulb seal unattached. Additionally the foil faced insulation I used looked like crap, so I had to cut my losses and start over.

I removed all of the bulb seal and the mess it left behind, removed the foil faced insulation, and the factory foam, leaving only the Dyna Mat. I then went to my local marine store and purchased a 3'X5' section of 1" foil faced gas engine hatch sound absorbing material (cost about $60) and installed that cleanly over the Dyna Mat. This product is extremely dense. MUCH more dense than the factory material.

The factory foam was only 1/2", so I have added a 1/2" of buildup in the new foam plus the Dyna Mat. When I close the hatch I can see that the new foam closes the gap all the way around. I do not think that I have any need for the bulb seal again. If I do install it, it will be smaller than before, possibly 3/8".

I have not run the boat yet so I have nothing to share about the effectiveness. For what it is worth though, when I did the engine hatch the first time, I also installed 3 layers of Dyna Mat on the fuel hatch, and really did not have much noticeable difference in sound or vibration. A little for sure, but not really enough to justify the money/effort. I know that many other have said that it makes a huge difference, and I am not suggesting they are wrong, but I wasn't impressed.

 

[Addicted]

Mine does the same, no big deal...

Your right, it is not that big of a deal, but for a 5 minute fix, it seems to be worth the effort. It tends to make others uncomfortable when it happens because it feels like their initial reaction is that they have broken something. On the seat, it was really annoying because it happens every time you hit a wave.

 

[motorboater]

@Addicted I ended up using a 1/4" flat white seal where I had previously used the bulb seal, and for the same reason... adding the product to the hatch made it quite a bit thicker. Its seems to be sticking well. If you want the product info I can get it for you. But maybe you dont need it anyway.

 

[jawsf16]

Your right, it is not that big of a deal, but for a 5 minute fix, it seems to be worth the effort. It tends to make others uncomfortable when it happens because it feels like their initial reaction is that they have broken something. On the seat, it was really annoying because it happens every time you hit a wave.

Completely agree. I intend on trying this. Mine only does it when I step in the pas through.

 

[Craig]

@Addicted I ended up using a 1/4" flat white seal where I had previously used the bulb seal, and for the same reason... adding the product to the hatch made it quite a bit thicker. Its seems to be sticking well. If you want the product info I can get it for you. But maybe you dont need it anyway.

Do you have any pictures of the seal you used in place of the bulb seal? Are you happy with it?

 

[motorboater]

Do you have any pictures of the seal you used in place of the bulb seal? Are you happy with it?

Sure, and yes my boat is much quieter. I spent a fair amount of money and many hours to insulate the hatch and fuel tank cover. I admit I may not recommend anyone do exactly what I did because it was a brutal amount of work. But the end result is very pleasing. Keep in mind you will not eliminate completely the sounds which originate from the pumps and resonate throughout the hull. If you want to limit this then install more efficient impellers such as the Solas units. Beefing up the hatch sound deadener only stops airborne engine noise. I can tell you that you will hear very little engine noise on my boat. I looked at adding a mass-loaded vinyl to the inside of the hull around the pumps but have decided against it even though I have the product sitting in my garage. Just too much work to be honest and I think it would be futile. After changing my impellers I got a huge improvement anyway.

The white seal is this product: http://www.mcmaster.com/#93565k75/=rknzow. Its closed cell so wont pull in moisture and is chemical resistant. The white looks nice unless you get it dirty I suppose. Its only one season but its still firmly stuck in place. Its pretty much totally shielded from the engine heat so I havent seen a problem with the 160 degree temp limit. I bet the factory foam has the same temp spec. anyway.

I noticed the bulb seal I installed before soundproofing the hatch was about perfect size. I think the bulb seal was 5/8". Since I then added at least 1/2" to the overall depth of the sound proofing material I figured a 1/4" inch seal would be perfect, and it seems to be. Cant see it in the photo but there is a 1/8" layer of Second Skin Spectrum coating brushed on to add some mass, then you see the 3/8" SS Overkill Pro closed cell foam under the factory eggcrate material for further sound absorption.

The final result looks completely oem.

 

[Addicted]

Sure, and yes my boat is much quieter. I spent a fair amount of money and many hours to insulate the hatch and fuel tank cover. I admit I may not recommend anyone do exactly what I did because it was a brutal amount of work. But the end result is very pleasing. Keep in mind you will not eliminate completely the sounds which originate from the pumps and resonate throughout the hull. If you want to limit this then install more efficient impellers such as the Solas units. Beefing up the hatch sound deadener only stops airborne engine noise. I can tell you that you will hear very little engine noise on my boat. I looked at adding a mass-loaded vinyl to the inside of the hull around the pumps but have decided against it even though I have the product sitting in my garage. Just too much work to be honest and I think it would be futile. After changing my impellers I got a huge improvement anyway.

The white seal is this product: http://www.mcmaster.com/#93565k75/=rknzow. Its closed cell so wont pull in moisture and is chemical resistant. The white looks nice unless you get it dirty I suppose. Its only one season but its still firmly stuck in place. Its pretty much totally shielded from the engine heat so I havent seen a problem with the 160 degree temp limit. I bet the factory foam has the same temp spec. anyway.

I noticed the bulb seal I installed before soundproofing the hatch was about perfect size. I think the bulb seal was 5/8". Since I then added at least 1/2" to the overall depth of the sound proofing material I figured a 1/4" inch seal would be perfect, and it seems to be. Cant see it in the photo but there is a 1/8" layer of Second Skin Spectrum coating brushed on to add some mass, then you see the 3/8" SS Overkill Pro closed cell foam under the factory eggcrate material for further sound absorption.

The final result looks completely oem.

View attachment 4210 View attachment 4211

Thanks for the link. I think this will work really well, I just ordered a roll.