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I just found out today while I was testing the install of my 2nd bilge pump that my factory pump does NOT come on unless the boat is in float mode. Just having the battery on with no keys in doesn’t activate the bilge.
My 2017 212 Limited S is the same. Turn batteries switches on no bilge. No matter how long you wait. Put Connext in Float mode either by turning on an ignition key or pressing the “lightbulb” button on the bottom of the Connext screen and you will start hearing the bilge cycle every couple minutes. Even after you turn Connext off by turning both ignition keys off or holding the “lightbulb” button until the Connext screen goes off, the bilge will continue to cycle until battery switches are turned off. Terrible setup in my mind.
My 2017 212 Limited S is the same. Turn batteries switches on no bilge. No matter how long you wait. Put Connext in Float mode either by turning on an ignition key or pressing the “lightbulb” button on the bottom of the Connext screen and you will start hearing the bilge cycle every couple minutes. Even after you turn Connext off by turning both ignition keys off or holding the “lightbulb” button until the Connext screen goes off, the bilge will continue to cycle until battery switches are turned off. Terrible setup in my mind.
Interesting! I’m actually considering pulling the factory pump and replacing with a higher gph one and float switch and just bypassing the connext altogether
They must have upgraded to a float design on newer models. Bout time.
Mine is a cycle every so often design. I tested it on monday to make sure it was operational still.
I filled the bilge to just cover the pump and waited for it to turn on. It worked correctly but i am installed a second pump with a float design as a backup
They must have upgraded to a float design on newer models. Bout time.
Mine is a cycle every so often design. I tested it on monday to make sure it was operational still.
I filled the bilge to just cover the pump and waited for it to turn on. It worked correctly but i am installed a second pump with a float design as a backup
This is what confuses me the most. My factory pump has only two wires going to it. So am I right in thinking that the Connext system is what controls the “cycle rate”? Because with only two wires(12v and negative) how does the “manual on” bilge button work within the Connext system? On the Connext you have “Auto” and “Manual” bilge control. I wish someone, that knows for sure, could enlighten me. Apparently Yamaha has changed the bilge operation a few times over the last few years.
I think my next “upgrade” is adding a float switch wired directly to the battery but then wire it in parallel with the factory bilge pump wiring. Then add a diode between the 12v coming from Connext and the 12v coming from added float switch. Only to keep 12v from back feeding from float switch into Connext. This setup would allow me to use “manual” from the Connext screen, allow Connext to continue to use the factory “cycle” method and also allow me to turn battery switches off and still have it operating with float switch. Hope this makes since to most. ?
This is what confuses me the most. My factory pump has only two wires going to it. So am I right in thinking that the Connext system is what controls the “cycle rate”? Because with only two wires(12v and negative) how does the “manual on” bilge button work within the Connext system? On the Connext you have “Auto” and “Manual” bilge control. I wish someone, that knows for sure, could enlighten me. Apparently Yamaha has changed the bilge operation a few times over the last few years.
I think my next “upgrade” is adding a float switch wired directly to the battery but then wire it in parallel with the factory bilge pump wiring. Then add a diode between the 12v coming from Connext and the 12v coming from added float switch. Only to keep 12v from back feeding from float switch into Connext. This setup would allow me to use “manual” from the Connext screen, allow Connext to continue to use the factory “cycle” method and also allow me to turn battery switches off and still have it operating with float switch. Hope this makes since to most. ?
That’s very interesting. I like the idea of cutting in parallel after the float so that if for some reason the float fails you can use connext to override it. Assuming by that point you aren’t already underwater. I have my float powering both the pump and an alarm but if my float failed I’d be SOL.
That’s very interesting. I like the idea of cutting in parallel after the float so that if for some reason the float fails you can use connext to override it. Assuming by that point you aren’t already underwater. I have my float powering both the pump and an alarm but if my float failed I’d be SOL.
I believe it's the pump itself that has the "cycling" feature. I think if you swap out the pump then when you turn on the pump with connext it just comes on.
I have a 2018 SX210, which according to the service manual the exact same as a 2107 AR210 minus the tower and stuff. If you look under the seat in the battery compartment there should be two fuses screwed to the same board close to the battery switch. One goes to everything on the helm. With it removed the boat will run but nothing on the helm will work (yes I tried it). The other is to the bilge pump which is wired directly to the battery. This is the auto side of the bilge, and at least in my case, it is a float switch. What this means is no matter if the battery switch on or off the pump will run if the float switch is tripped. The battery switch does have to be on for the helm pump switch to work. At least that is how my boat is factory wired.
I believe it's the pump itself that has the "cycling" feature. I think if you swap out the pump then when you turn on the pump with connext it just comes on.
I'll double check....I know for sure in the 2020SE when you turn the bilge ON at the connext, you can hear it try to pump. I probably didn't leave it on long enough for it to determine there was no water and shut off, but I can test it again next time I'm on it.
I'll double check....I know for sure in the 2020SE when you turn the bilge ON at the connext, you can hear it try to pump. I probably didn't leave it on long enough for it to determine there was no water and shut off, but I can test it again next time I'm on it.
I have always found this topic a bit confusing. I think because there are many different configurations out there. Best bet is to test ones own boat to be sure. I am pulling my boat out of storage this weekend hopefully, and am going to figure this out for my own piece of mind.
I keep my battery switches on and bilge pump in auto and it works fine . I believe that’s what it states in the manual . I just keep the battery charger on it .
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