Rear hatch removal question

[rkgdmd]

Hi all,

As much as I love my 2015 242, it does keep me busy repairing/retightning/gluing/replacing all sorts of endless shi* that either falls apart, breaks, loosen....well, you get the idea. My latest discovery included pulling a handful of broken and rusted hose clamps out of the access port in the rear hatch. Aside from the shear number of clamps that were broken, the more amazing take away from this is that I haven't managed to sink the boat yet. Lol. So.....time to remove the whole hatch and replace everything with stainless. Any tips? I assume the clean out port clamps need to be loosened on top. How hard is it to break that sealant free? Which sealant should I use when I replace the hatch? Anything else to loosen or remove it? Thanks guys!

 

[Gym]

Hi all,

As much as I love my 2015 242, it does keep me busy repairing/retightning/gluing/replacing all sorts of endless shi* that either falls apart, breaks, loosen....well, you get the idea. My latest discovery included pulling a handful of broken and rusted hose clamps out of the access port in the rear hatch. Aside from the shear number of clamps that were broken, the more amazing take away from this is that I haven't managed to sink the boat yet. Lol. So.....time to remove the whole hatch and replace everything with stainless. Any tips? I assume the clean out port clamps need to be loosened on top. How hard is it to break that sealant free? Which sealant should I use when I replace the hatch? Anything else to loosen or remove it? Thanks guys!

Lots of screws to remove. I was able to wiggle my cleanout tray until it lifted up. I guess my tube clamps weren't very tight. My best advice is to replace your hose clamps with the T style clamps. Whereas they don't have the slots they don't rot and break. I recently replaced all of mine in this area as they are not readily available for inspection and this location is where I have found all of my failed or failing clamps.

 

[Scottintexas]

It's a pretty straight forward and a good job to get completed

 

[swatski]

Hi all,

As much as I love my 2015 242, it does keep me busy repairing/retightning/gluing/replacing all sorts of endless shi* that either falls apart, breaks, loosen....well, you get the idea. My latest discovery included pulling a handful of broken and rusted hose clamps out of the access port in the rear hatch. Aside from the shear number of clamps that were broken, the more amazing take away from this is that I haven't managed to sink the boat yet. Lol. So.....time to remove the whole hatch and replace everything with stainless. Any tips? I assume the clean out port clamps need to be loosened on top. How hard is it to break that sealant free? Which sealant should I use when I replace the hatch? Anything else to loosen or remove it? Thanks guys!

I use white 100% silicone there.
You will find several screws holding the hatch... spinning. It's a disgrace. You can ignore those, or replace with small bolts or use U-clips.
While in there, check the wet drain fittings, some hoses Yamaha installs will likely be kinked.

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[Frank Marshall]

I went overboard, tired of threads ripping out. Drilled an additional hole in these Weld Nuts and then used aluminum pop-rivets in the second hole to secure them. No more ripped out threads. Also used 1/8" closed cell rubber strip with psa for a sealer, and doubled the number of screws to reduce the hatch cover flex.

 

[rkgdmd]

Thanks for the help guys